LOW Mileage 03 couple issues possible to fix???

[luke1333]

Cobra hunt is beginning as i got a part time job as I am finishing college this semester but an 03 cobra 10th caught my eye and need a couple opinions on it.

2003 Cobra 10th Vert with 3,000 miles on it and only intake and pulley and some strange wheels. Here are a couple photos.



In this photo anyway to fix the door sag seen at front of door and passenger fender? I know its a common problem and before I attempt at loan or contacting seller I want to hear how hard it would be to fix that door. Also what you guys think its worth??? Car is mint from what i can tell inside and out from photos. Comes with all stock parts (wheels, exhaust, floor mats, window sticker & docs etc etc)

 

[03SonicVert]

Mine was identical when I bought it. Only on the passenger side though. Sorry for the not so good photos but all I have to show you how it was.

My theory is that it happened when the prior owner had new tires installed. It appeared who ever lifted it placed the lift pad under the fender reinforcement area under the car causing the bottom of the fender to get pushed up. I loosened the inner fender liner, removed the ground effect portion of the fender (just the small forward most piece), used two c-clamps with a small piece of metal bar stock on the bottom inside of the fender to disperse the c-clamp force. Then used a 6 foot piece of pipe placed through the c-clamp, levered onto a piece of wood on the subframe and pushed down on the pipe thus pulling the bottom of the fender back into place. This pulled the two body lines back into place and left the car 99.9% mint with no paint damage or remaining issues that took away from originality.

This was my case. I don't believe the door would "sag" unless it was worked on prior. If the fender wasn't moved due to an accident or other work then I would guess maybe when those wheels were installed someone lifted the vehicle improperly too.

SV

When I bought it:

After I had a go at it:

 

[2003cobra22]

A member on here posted this response about a member looking at a car with a 2.6 KB and 55k miles. I think he sums up best how to go about looking into buying one of these cars

The above is all traditionally correct assuming responsible ownership of the car prior to your purchase.

I'd never buy a modified or performance car without having it leak down, compression and multipoint inspected though. That $2-300 at a reputable shop can save you from buying a problem child.

I found a 28,000 mile 750whp twin turbo cobra that made 177-181 compression in all 8, no leaks, passed a 70pt inspection with flying colors, etc. I bought it and it was immaculate.

I avoided buying a "stock" 2004 comp orange convertible with just 21,000 miles (wanted a summer cruiser/bolt on project car) that made just 135-160 compression through all 8, showed signs the transmission brace had been removed at least a few times, had a brand new differential and axle boots, had head tick and a very minor exhaust leak near the bottom of the driver manifold, etc. I never checked up on the car after that, but I'd imagine the eventual buyer ended up with a problem child... It likely was a bolt on car abused often and so on.

Even a stock 2003 cobra had an engine replacement by just 5,000 miles when car and driver tested a 2003 cobra vs an 00r years back. They were magazine editor miles (bounce redline, miss shifts, 4-2 up shifts likely, etc) but still shows what can happen when abused...

I'd say the car you're looking at is likely fine. I'd have it compression, leak down, and multipointed by a respected dealer in the area. If a BMW dealer has the best rep, use them, if a gm dealer, etc. I had an Audi dealer multiple point/test an Infiniti for me as the Infiniti dealer had a terrible rep, and the Audi dealer was same price but much more reputable.

From there, if all checks out, enjoy and care for the car well. Keep up on checking plugs/oil/coolant etc, probably get in the habit of changing fluids/filters/plugs/etc more often, especially after winter storage, empty or stabilize the fuel tank before storage, run injector cleaner in the spring, all the simple things. That extra 10-25hrs of maintenance at a cost or maybe $250-500 a year is the difference between a hundred thousand mile 600whp engine, and a 5-25,000 mile engine IMO. (Of course driver habits, a proper custom dyno tune in your area or reputable chip, etc also are huge factors)

That was very long, but wanted to offer a few perspectives. It's likely a great vehicle, practice due diligence and all will be well.

Heres the link
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1062461-Engine-Longevity-Question

 

[03SonicVert]

Also the door "sag" you might be thinking of is when the pins and bushings wear out resulting in the rear of the door sagging and the striker/latch doesn't line up right. Then you have to lift the door when you close it. I had to do the pins and pushings in my 1991.

I am sticking with my initial thought that the car was lifted under that fender bending it upwards. The hinges and B-pillar are strong and would only be damaged from way high mileage/use or accident. That fender needs adjusting but it will be up to you to determine if it was a blond moment of lifting the car improperly, something was ran over, accident, etc.

A 5 minute inspection in person could tell you if paint and body work was performed in the past but if you don't have that luxury to see it then get photos of the fenders under the hood to see if the bolts had wrenches on them, paint/tape lines, overspray, etc.

SV

 

[dom418]

You have to remember that the fit and finish on these cars is horrible. I've owned a couple and each one was bad. My last had 2900 miles and had a huge gap under the rear tail light and bumper, half of my hood showed primer, and none of my panels lined up. I'd go for it. They weren't built like today's mustang that's for sure but they have character

 

[luke1333]

Mine was identical when I bought it. Only on the passenger side though. Sorry for the not so good photos but all I have to show you how it was.

My theory is that it happened when the prior owner had new tires installed. It appeared who ever lifted it placed the lift pad under the fender reinforcement area under the car causing the bottom of the fender to get pushed up. I loosened the inner fender liner, removed the ground effect portion of the fender (just the small forward most piece), used two c-clamps with a small piece of metal bar stock on the bottom inside of the fender to disperse the c-clamp force. Then used a 6 foot piece of pipe placed through the c-clamp, levered onto a piece of wood on the subframe and pushed down on the pipe thus pulling the bottom of the fender back into place. This pulled the two body lines back into place and left the car 99.9% mint with no paint damage or remaining issues that took away from originality.

This was my case. I don't believe the door would "sag" unless it was worked on prior. If the fender wasn't moved due to an accident or other work then I would guess maybe when those wheels were installed someone lifted the vehicle improperly too.

SV

When I bought it:

After I had a go at it:

Yeah I can see it on yours and I honestly dont know man could it have left the factory stock like that? I have seen only a few new edges that dont have it. Buddy with 04 gt coupe and it is perfect another guy with 01 gt isnt bad and my old 02 and my mach both had it not as bad as this cobra though.

A member on here posted this response about a member looking at a car with a 2.6 KB and 55k miles. I think he sums up best how to go about looking into buying one of these cars



Heres the link
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?1062461-Engine-Longevity-Question

Thats a very good response man thanks. there is so many different things that go on with these cars its crazy man!

Also the door "sag" you might be thinking of is when the pins and bushings wear out resulting in the rear of the door sagging and the striker/latch doesn't line up right. Then you have to lift the door when you close it. I had to do the pins and pushings in my 1991.

I am sticking with my initial thought that the car was lifted under that fender bending it upwards. The hinges and B-pillar are strong and would only be damaged from way high mileage/use or accident. That fender needs adjusting but it will be up to you to determine if it was a blond moment of lifting the car improperly, something was ran over, accident, etc.

A 5 minute inspection in person could tell you if paint and body work was performed in the past but if you don't have that luxury to see it then get photos of the fenders under the hood to see if the bolts had wrenches on them, paint/tape lines, overspray, etc.

SV

Yeah I know what you mean i have been in cars like that but i would highly doubt a 3k mile car has worn out pins and bushings lol

Also yeah it is an easy look from the fender and from his engine bay photo in ad i dont think its been taken off but who knows its a photo

You have to remember that the fit and finish on these cars is horrible. I've owned a couple and each one was bad. My last had 2900 miles and had a huge gap under the rear tail light and bumper, half of my hood showed primer, and none of my panels lined up. I'd go for it. They weren't built like today's mustang that's for sure but they have character

I know the fit and finish is terrible on these things! My issue is if i cannot find one that is perfect i wont buy. Im so anal i wont spend $25k+ on one with gaps like that if they cannot be easily fixed. And FYI i am not sure the 2015s have any better fit and finish honestly then the old junk new edges. makes no sense to me but its a mass produced car and isnt going to have good quality control ugh maybe i should just save for c6 z06

 

[FromGTtoSVT]

then move along cause you aren't going to find one that's perfect. These cars are 12 years old now and have been DRIVEN.

I am not saying there aren't any super nice cars out there....because there definitely is, sounds like you are being unrealistic

BTW, i kinda like those wheels, different, they look good. I think refinished in a different color would really set the car off.

 

[luke1333]

then move along cause you aren't going to find one that's perfect. These cars are 12 years old now and have been DRIVEN.

I am not saying there aren't any super nice cars out there....because there definitely is, sounds like you are being unrealistic

BTW, i kinda like those wheels, different, they look good. I think refinished in a different color would really set the car off.

Yeah but driven only 3k miles isn't much lol I wanted one around 10-15k miles which still isn't much. There should still be one very very close to perfect out there.

I agree I'm being completely unrealistic lol that's what I want a perfect 10th vert then it will be even rarer when everything lines up etc etc

And wheels are ok I'm not a fan of dark wheels or black wheels at all. I'd much rather have some silver bbs rks, afs reps or even some good old silver fr like I had on my mach lol

 

[Franco]

Those wheels don't look bad at all. I happen to like em.
I agree with sv. Looks like the car was jacked improperly. I know the fit and finish usually isn't perfect, but I don't think it would be that far off.
Car is very nice though.

 

[luke1333]

Those wheels don't look bad at all. I happen to like em.
I agree with sv. Looks like the car was jacked improperly. I know the fit and finish usually isn't perfect, but I don't think it would be that far off.
Car is very nice though.

yeah it is extremely noticeable to me from just photos imagine in person lol