Lost #5 & #6

[04SilverSerpent]

So, I went to the track with the car for the first time this past Friday and had some unforeseen issues. Before I get into the details, I had no idea that I had an issue as the car has always been fine on the street. That said, I decided to go and make a pass at the track since we had some nice weather for a change (only 2200 DA or so and low 90's haha)...I took it easy on the launch as I thought if I was going to hurt anything, it was going to be the rearend....so only a 2.2 60 launching off idle on Nitto 555r's. The 1.8th mile traps were 98, but rolling through the 1.4, I only hit 123.5. This was on 17lbs of boost and half tank of 93 octane. I hate to benchrace, but based on that trap, I should have atleast hit ~130+ (no weight reduction and forgot to take the spare time ) In looking at the log, it would appear that the damage was done @5400 & up in 3rd and 4th gear (more later on that)....my guess is it grenaded before the 1.8th mile (otherwise I would have trapped higher there as well) and hence my low overall mph. What's funny is the car felt great. I got the car back in the pits and noticed the car was smoking alot and there was oil all over the passenger side of the engine bay that had come out of the breather. I was able to drive the car home, but I obviously knew something was wrong...I heard a horrible sounds as I was going through the gears after I started the car back up and left the track.... and after getting in 6th gear @50mph, the car was stumbling badly only to clear up @60mph. I originally thought that my log didn't work, but after getting home, I noticed that it indeed worked. So back to looking at the log.... everything looked normal other than the fuel pump duty cycle which hit 100% at the very peak of 2nd and then @5400 & up in 3rd and 4th gears. I guess I didn't have the most up to date version of livelink cause I couldn't find fuel injector duty cycle anywhere...so I just logged the basics (ie spark, rpm, speed, throttle position, IAT etc).

So the next day with the help of 04Sleeper, I checked the compression (thanks XtremeJC) and pretty much was 165-175 accross the board except for #5 which was 0 and #6 which was 30.


So now the real question is what to do now. I won't know for sure, but I'm willing to bet I'll have issues with my current block in the #5 and 6 cylinder walls so that leads me to believe it might be cheaper just to get a complete shortblock and reusing my heads (assuming they are okay). A new aluminator shortblock from Tousley is $3200 shipped to my door. Other than weight, what are the advantages of the aluminator?

Secondly, I was looking at some of the shorblocks that MMR has to offer:

MMR 4.6 Street Mod 1000 $2899.99-UP TO 1000 RWHP
Fits all 96-08 2V, 3V or 4V

*Brand New Cast Iron, current production 03/04 Supercharged Cobra Block, torque plate bored & honed
*New 1200+HP 4340 Forged 3.543 stroke Cobra Crankshaft w/micro polished journals at no extra charge
*New 4340 5.933 Manley H-beam Rods w/ARP bolts ( These US made rods are shotpeened, magnafluxed and weight matched to bring you the finest H-beam rod available for your 4.6
*New Forged MMR/Manley or Diamond pistons 3.552 Bore size (High or low compression)
*Total Seal file fit rings (precision file fit to your application, nitrous, blower, turbo or N/A)
*CLEVITE Performance Rod and Main bearings
*Complete Pro Assembly and Balancing for the smoothest, highest revving shortblock available.

Even after I get this back together, I don't plan on making more than 900rwhp...I'm going to be purchasing some 80lb injectors and most likely converting to a return style system with the triple fore intank hat as well as e85.

Sorry for the long novel LOL. I'm not looking to make a decision anytime soon, but just curious what input/suggestions others might have.

 

[whtcobra1998]

aluminator-lose 100lbs from front end, and you do feel the difference. I have a 03 for my block now and can't wait to put a built teksid back in, you do feel the weight difference.
but i do know the mmr will be stronger and you can get it with the aluminum block as an option

 

[y2k2gt]

Wow That sucks!! How`much boost were you running? I thought mph did your fuel setup?
This is also the reason guys should have the sct prp. That way you can see how everything is programed. Guys should also get the data logs from dyno runs to know for sure how everything was on the pull.
My car traps 99-100 in 1/8 with 10psi and trapped 109 with 18psi when it made 540rw on the dyno.

 

[2bscrewed]

That sucks, sorry to hear it. We just ordered a couple bare aluminum blocks from tousley for just under $800 each to have built locally, so that is another option.

Just as a reference on 17#'s I was trapping 106 ish in the 1/8th and 134ish in the 1/4 at 700 hp with my stick car.

 

[04SilverSerpent]

Yeah, they did the setup..not sure what happened to be honest..it should have been fine on pumpgas. I think the car woudl have trapped in the mid 100's if it would not have been hurt, but such is life. I'm not even going to start taking it apart until it gets cooler..I won't have the cash until early next year to rebuild it ...don't want to put in on the CC...so it will have to wait till then. I'm going to go full return this time around with e85.

 

[y2k2gt]

I run E85 now full time.

 

[quikcobra]

Do a good bit of research on who you will be looking to get the motor threw. MMR was who I was going to get before I decided to build my own teskid (With a little help) due to the huge number of threads of others having issues with their MMR motors (getting knock off parts in them, bad machine work, ect...). Just do a quick search the proven piston is CP most car running reliable high HP are running them.

If your interested a buddy has a complete Teskid short block that has been freshly rebuilt with arp studs and all I think he has it pretty cheap if your interested PM me Ill give you his info. Im pretty sure it has CP/modmax 9cc dish pistons, Manley rods, arp hardware, total seal SS rings, ect...

 

[Modular Racing]

Do a good bit of research on who you will be looking to get the motor threw. MMR was who I was going to get before I decided to build my own teskid (With a little help) due to the huge number of threads of others having issues with their MMR motors (getting knock off parts in them, bad machine work, ect...). Just do a quick search the proven piston is CP most car running reliable high HP are running them.

If your interested a buddy has a complete Teskid short block that has been freshly rebuilt with arp studs and all I think he has it pretty cheap if your interested PM me Ill give you his info. Im pretty sure it has CP/modmax 9cc dish pistons, Manley rods, arp hardware, total seal SS rings, ect...

Not sure where you got your information from but MMR does not use ANY "knock off" parts as you put it, everything we use is Genuine Manley, Clevite, total seal etc. MMR is Manleys largest dealer of Modular parts in the world, dont believe us- call the president of Manley and ask.

We have also not had any engines returned for warranty due to a MMR workmanship error in over 4 years. Our machining stds. are all far beyond most racing standards and are done on the most current machinery. Our engines power also speak for them self as 4 of the 6 fastest modular powered cars in the world use MMR engines.

An argument is never what we are looking for, but we pride ourselves on building precision racing engines and hate to see people bad mouth our engines, if someone is having trouble with one of our engines they need to contact us, we are here to help and stand behind everything we sell and offer a warranty on every engine we sell.

MMR

 

[Modular Racing]

To the original poster please let us know how we can help, we specialize in turbo engines, we can rebuild using your existing parts or build you a fresh one, both options include a 1 year warranty and use Manley Pistons (same as used in our 2200HP twin turbo GT500), Manley or MMR forged rods, both of which use ARP hardware and re-assembled with Clevite bearings and Total seal file fit rings.

Take care and again, let us know if we can help, our tech staff is also always available to answer questions and help you with your particular application!

MMR

 

[TVSCobra]

Did those cylinders go lean for some reason? I saw you said FPDC was 100% at times. Keep us upated when you tear it down. Sorry to hear that man, that really sucks. Good luck bro.

 

[quikcobra]

Not sure where you got your information from but MMR does not use ANY "knock off" parts as you put it, everything we use is Genuine Manley, Clevite, total seal etc. MMR is Manleys largest dealer of Modular parts in the world, dont believe us- call the president of Manley and ask.

We have also not had any engines returned for warranty due to a MMR workmanship error in over 4 years. Our machining stds. are all far beyond most racing standards and are done on the most current machinery. Our engines power also speak for them self as 4 of the 6 fastest modular powered cars in the world use MMR engines.

An argument is never what we are looking for, but we pride ourselves on building precision racing engines and hate to see people bad mouth our engines, if someone is having trouble with one of our engines they need to contact us, we are here to help and stand behind everything we sell and offer a warranty on every engine we sell.

MMR

As posted very clear in the first sentence of my post. I did research and threw "threads" I found alot of issues alot on here, alot on modfords, ect.... I have no doubt you build a bad ass race car, however your not using the same parts in your race cars, as you sell in the create motors. And your race cars are torn down often. On the other hand alot has to do with the operator of the driver/installer.

And again No doubt you sell more manley pistons (I dont use them so doesnt matter to me) but its mor ethen likely due to your price, and being known nothing else. And you have 4 out of the 6 fastest mod car but theres alot mor eto a race car then a street car so selling a streetable engine, your race experience doesnt help.

 

[04SilverSerpent]

Did those cylinders go lean for some reason? I saw you said FPDC was 100% at times. Keep us upated when you tear it down. Sorry to hear that man, that really sucks. Good luck bro.

Unfortunately, I wasn't able to log A/F and it's not in a position that I can look at when driving by myself. Once it gets torn down, I'll post up pic's etc. I honestly don't know what the issue was .... I do know that the A/F was fine on the street pulls though.