Loose Coil Problem... Need Advice Please.

J-Rod76

2001 Lightning
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I take my truck to the local Ford dealership for routine maintenance because I don’t have the time or patience to do the work myself. About two weeks ago I took my truck to have the plugs changed out, the fuel filter replaced and a few other small things done.

After I got it back I parked it in the garage for a few days because of weather before I had the chance to drive it. A few days later when I had the chance to drive it the SES light came on with a code indicating “Bank 1 Lean”. I used the search button and learned that that is normally a vacuum line problem. I looked around under the hood and found one of the lines on the intake off so that fixed that problem and cleared the SES light with my Predator.

A few more days go by and I have the chance to drive the truck again and this time when I put the truck in drive, it starts to shutter. I’m thinking that with all of the temperature changes that I just got some condensation in the tank so I try to drive through the problem, but I make sure that I stay out of boost. After a few miles of driving the problem smoothes out and everything seems fine. A couple more days go by and I get the chance to drive the truck again to work. When I get in the truck for lunch it starts the shuttering thing again when I put it in gear. Now I’m like “WTF”? So I go back to the trusty “Search” button and much to my dismay I see multiple posts about launched plugs and bad coil packs.

So today I get under the hood and find the back coil pack on the passenger’s side loose to the touch and the back two coil packs on the driver’s side loose. Now I’m mad because I realize that the mechanic that worked on my truck did a half a$$ job. I called the dealership and they told me to bring it in on Monday and they would “make it right”.

I drove almost 350 miles with these loose, but only had the symptoms twice. What I need to know is what type of damage this may have caused. What should I have them check for? Any advice, suggestions or ideas of what to look for will greatly be appreciated.
 

02bluelightning

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i would personally bring it back have them fix the problem then before i pick it up meet with the mechanic and have him go over everything he worked on maybe even go for a quick ride to make sure everything is set and make sure he did his job right and tell him next time to pull his head outta his ass
 

Dusten

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I dont believe it would cause any permenant damage. Much like a plug wiring coming off.
 

Dusten

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no, shouldnt be anything wrong, just make sure the **** suckers put the screws in the CP's this time
 

Tims97SVT

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I question the fact DID HE CHANGE THE REAR PLUGS. Because I was looking at my truck and the coil packs move around a little even when the coil packs are tight. I checked to make sure mine were tight thats why I say they move a little. But it seams that the rear plugs are such a pain in the butt to get to. Thats why I ask did he really change them?
 

pitstain

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There have been a few stories of shops not bothering with rear plugs on occasion, very sad, and the rear drivers cylinder is the hardest on plugs quite often too!.
 

bamaRed

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just so you know next time, take a marker and put a mark on the plugs now, and tell them which ones were loose and that you want the plugs changed cause they could have been fouled out cause of not fireing. and if they change them, you will know cause your mark will be gone. thats an easy way to make sure there changed.
but i would tell them to change the plugs at the least.
 

bonehead

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im confused..... if you were getting a lean code, the coil is not the problem. if it was not lighting the mixture, it would be rich. wouldnt have caused any damage though.
 

Stewart_H

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boner said:
im confused..... if you were getting a lean code, the coil is not the problem. if it was not lighting the mixture, it would be rich. wouldnt have caused any damage though.

J-Rod76 said:
...the SES light came on with a code indicating “Bank 1 Lean”. I used the search button and learned that that is normally a vacuum line problem. I looked around under the hood and found one of the lines on the intake off so that fixed that problem and cleared the SES light with my Predator.

Where does the confusion come from? He explained the code, and the usual "suspects" that create the code. He investigated and found a vacuum line unhooked, so once he reattached it and cleared the code, all was fine again.

The code wasn't thrown from the loose COP's, it was thrown because of the vacuum line being disconnected.

Hope that clears up your confusion.

Stewart
 

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