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SVTPerformance's Chain of Restaurants
Show'n'Shine Saloon
Looking for a little guidance...
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<blockquote data-quote="Scott P" data-source="post: 3123782" data-attributes="member: 15037"><p>Allow me to kick in some reviews/experiences with the products that have been mentioned in this thread. I actually do give the stuff a try before I sell it just so I can have some sort of personal experience with it. I’m not a pro detailer, but I think I can hold my own.</p><p></p><p><strong>Optimum Polish –</strong> I liked this product when I first used it last March. It has become my favorite polish for most jobs. It works well enough with the PC, but a rotary polisher really makes it nice. Its best feature is its long working time. This long work time is due to a combination of the diminishing abrasives and the polishing oils. These oils function as “carrier” oils and do not just fill in swirls. The long working time allows you to really work a surface without fear of the polish drying out. It also benefits the rotary user as the oils provide a safety margin against burning the paint. The drawback is that it does take longer for Optimum Polish to break down when using a PC. If you are the impatient sort, then, you might not like the product. </p><p></p><p>When using OP, I tend to do it in two steps. I’ll first hit the panel with the polish and an orange light cutting pad. Because OP will cut based on the pad used, this is usually sufficient to remove most swirls and paint defects. For anything heavier, I would step up to Optimum Compound and a rotary. Once I think the OP/orange pad combo has been worked, I follow right up with OP and a white polishing pad. This removes and hazing from the orange pad and gives a nice polish and finish. I then move onto the next panel and repeat the process. I can make one trip around the vehicle with two pads and one bottle of polish to get the swirls/oxidation and other defects out of the paint. </p><p></p><p><strong>Poorboy’s SSR Series - </strong> I feel the SSR series are best worked by hand or PC. They break down quickly and are very effective. SSR3 is wicked abrasive and is probably the exception to that rule. It works very well with a rotary. It can be used with a PC, but I wouldn’t use anything stronger than a white polishing pad. SSR2.5 is probably the one that I reach for most. It is strong enough to take out the majority of defects. SSR2.5 and an Orange light cutting pad works great to remove most problems. There will most likely be hazing from that combination. I follow up with SSR2.5 on a white polishing pad to remove that. A final pass with SSR1 and a white polishing pad gives the finish a nice final polish and extra clarity. SSR2 is a bit weaker than SSR2.5, but it works very well by hand to remove swirls. You can use SSR2 with a polishing pad or even a light cutting pad to remove defects that don’t call for SSR2.5. </p><p></p><p>The drawbacks to eh SSR series is that they tend to dust a bit as they work. It is this dusting that lets you know it’s time to buff and check you results. The SSR series is more geared to the PC than Optimum Polish. They break down quicker and give great results. They also leave the finish squeaky clean and ready for your choice of topping products.</p><p></p><p><strong>Clearkote Red Machine Glaze - </strong> I do find RMG a tad bit tougher to use than Vanilla Moose. It does have a small learning curve to it. I think it applies best with a soft finishing/glazing pad like Lake Country’s Blue Final Finishing pad. I apply a small amount (about three dime sized drops space don the pad) and work the PC at speed 4. It should take just a few passes and then you should see the RMG just about disappear into the paint. A that point, you can know to buff it off. Once the pad is “pried”, you’ll find yourself using a bit less product on subsequent panels. The RMG really does make blacks “blacker”. It’s tough to explain, but the difference is quite visible. I like to top my black cars with either Carnauba Moose Wax or Natty’s Blue Paste Wax. </p><p></p><p>Wow, that turned out longer than I thought it would…</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Scott P, post: 3123782, member: 15037"] Allow me to kick in some reviews/experiences with the products that have been mentioned in this thread. I actually do give the stuff a try before I sell it just so I can have some sort of personal experience with it. I’m not a pro detailer, but I think I can hold my own. [B]Optimum Polish –[/b] I liked this product when I first used it last March. It has become my favorite polish for most jobs. It works well enough with the PC, but a rotary polisher really makes it nice. Its best feature is its long working time. This long work time is due to a combination of the diminishing abrasives and the polishing oils. These oils function as “carrier” oils and do not just fill in swirls. The long working time allows you to really work a surface without fear of the polish drying out. It also benefits the rotary user as the oils provide a safety margin against burning the paint. The drawback is that it does take longer for Optimum Polish to break down when using a PC. If you are the impatient sort, then, you might not like the product. When using OP, I tend to do it in two steps. I’ll first hit the panel with the polish and an orange light cutting pad. Because OP will cut based on the pad used, this is usually sufficient to remove most swirls and paint defects. For anything heavier, I would step up to Optimum Compound and a rotary. Once I think the OP/orange pad combo has been worked, I follow right up with OP and a white polishing pad. This removes and hazing from the orange pad and gives a nice polish and finish. I then move onto the next panel and repeat the process. I can make one trip around the vehicle with two pads and one bottle of polish to get the swirls/oxidation and other defects out of the paint. [b]Poorboy’s SSR Series - [/b] I feel the SSR series are best worked by hand or PC. They break down quickly and are very effective. SSR3 is wicked abrasive and is probably the exception to that rule. It works very well with a rotary. It can be used with a PC, but I wouldn’t use anything stronger than a white polishing pad. SSR2.5 is probably the one that I reach for most. It is strong enough to take out the majority of defects. SSR2.5 and an Orange light cutting pad works great to remove most problems. There will most likely be hazing from that combination. I follow up with SSR2.5 on a white polishing pad to remove that. A final pass with SSR1 and a white polishing pad gives the finish a nice final polish and extra clarity. SSR2 is a bit weaker than SSR2.5, but it works very well by hand to remove swirls. You can use SSR2 with a polishing pad or even a light cutting pad to remove defects that don’t call for SSR2.5. The drawbacks to eh SSR series is that they tend to dust a bit as they work. It is this dusting that lets you know it’s time to buff and check you results. The SSR series is more geared to the PC than Optimum Polish. They break down quicker and give great results. They also leave the finish squeaky clean and ready for your choice of topping products. [b]Clearkote Red Machine Glaze - [/b] I do find RMG a tad bit tougher to use than Vanilla Moose. It does have a small learning curve to it. I think it applies best with a soft finishing/glazing pad like Lake Country’s Blue Final Finishing pad. I apply a small amount (about three dime sized drops space don the pad) and work the PC at speed 4. It should take just a few passes and then you should see the RMG just about disappear into the paint. A that point, you can know to buff it off. Once the pad is “pried”, you’ll find yourself using a bit less product on subsequent panels. The RMG really does make blacks “blacker”. It’s tough to explain, but the difference is quite visible. I like to top my black cars with either Carnauba Moose Wax or Natty’s Blue Paste Wax. Wow, that turned out longer than I thought it would… [/QUOTE]
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