Looking for a little guidance...

[BLK_03]

I have been detailing w/ my porter cable for over a year. Over this year I have acquired some products and pads and am now in a bit of sensory overload with the products.

Let me start by saying I love SSR 2.5, but no matter what pad, no matter what technique, no matter what speed, I always end up with a bit of micromarring in the paint. I work under many fluorescent lights, a portable halogen light and I even carry a high powered flashlight around with me to assess the paint. I see more details in my paint when working in the garage, than the car will ever see in normal lighting conditions. My goal is the elimination of this micro marring.

I have the following.

SSR2.5
SSR2
SSR1
Optimum Polish
Clearkote Vanilla Moose
Clearkote Red Machine Glaze
Various Waxes (moot point)

Lake Country Pads in following aggressiveness:

Green
White
Black
Blue

Given these products, what combination of polish/pads do you guys recommend?

 

[spree]

I've stopped using my SSR2.5. I now use Optimum Polish almost exclusively.

I'd go with this...

Optimum Polish on a Cutting or Polish Pad (depending on severity of swirls)
RMG on a Polishing or Finishing Pad (depending on which pad you used in the step above)
CMW on a Finishing Pad or by hand (use the finishing pad if you didn't use it above)

 

[BLK_03]

I've stopped using my SSR2.5. I now use Optimum Polish almost exclusively.

I'd go with this...

Optimum Polish on a Cutting or Polish Pad (depending on severity of swirls)
RMG on a Polishing or Finishing Pad (depending on which pad you used in the step above)
CMW on a Finishing Pad or by hand (use the finishing pad if you didn't use it above)

Why the elimination of the 2.5?

What about the SSR's? 2 or 1 before the optimum? Any advantage to doing that?

I was going SSR2 w/ white, SSR 1 w/ white, Optimum w/ black, VMHG w/ blue finishing (I liked it better than the RMG)...but I felt I could get more pop out of the paint...

 

[trance_in_miami]

I like both SSR 2.5 & Optimum. But i did notice that when detailed my grandpa in law's corolla the Optimum was taking forever to break down i did use a ( white polish pad). I then went with SSR 2.5 & solved the issue for me much faster. But then again Optimum has saved my dad's white Montero. If you are getting some Micro marring you will need to change pad. I once did SSR2.5 ( cutting pad ) followed by Optimum with White polishing pad. The results were good. Im not fond of ssr 1 becasue i have noticed is does barely anything.

 

[BLK_03]

I like both SSR 2.5 & Optimum. But i did notice that when detailed my grandpa in law's corolla the Optimum was taking forever to break down i did use a ( white polish pad). I then went with SSR 2.5 & solved the issue for me much faster. But then again Optimum has saved my dad's white Montero. If you are getting some Micro marring you will need to change pad. I once did SSR2.5 ( cutting pad ) followed by Optimum with White polishing pad. The results were good. Im not fond of ssr 1 becasue i have noticed is does barely anything.

Change the pad? Interesting. Why do you say this? Do pads have a limited life?

If memory serves, I was using a new white pad.

 

[trance_in_miami]

I was assuming you were using a cutting pad. Which means that if you were. Using Optimum after your ssr application might work. I would suggest you just use optimum polish & report if the marring continues. if it continues youI dont know what to tell you. If it stops that you have a new go to polish.

 

[Juiced-03]

Try following up the 2.5 with something less aggressive like SSR2 or SSR1 with a polishing pad.

 

[BLK_03]

Well, I just went out and experimented.

Optimum polish ONLY. No SSR's.

Dual stage. Once with the white pad. Once with the black pad. Really did a nice job. Took my time went slowly over the panel. Up and down, left to right, then up and down again, making sure to overlap each pass. There were scratches it took out along with all of the micro marring. This followed up w/ some VMHG may be just what I'm looking for.

Perhaps in the future, this is all I will use. Just skip the 2.5. I am beginning to think 2.5 should really just be used on heavier scratched/swirled areas. For maintenance detailings a few times a year, I think Optimum may be all that is needed. (I'm speaking for people who own their own car and take good care of it, not those that do this as a proffesion or side job and see all kinds of neglected paint)...

 

[spree]

Well, I just went out and experimented.

Optimum polish ONLY. No SSR's.

Dual stage. Once with the white pad. Once with the black pad. Really did a nice job. Took my time went slowly over the panel. Up and down, left to right, then up and down again, making sure to overlap each pass. There were scratches it took out along with all of the micro marring. This followed up w/ some VMHG may be just what I'm looking for.

Perhaps in the future, this is all I will use. Just skip the 2.5. I am beginning to think 2.5 should really just be used on heavier scratched/swirled areas. For maintenance detailings a few times a year, I think Optimum may be all that is needed. (I'm speaking for people who own their own car and take good care of it, not those that do this as a proffesion or side job and see all kinds of neglected paint)...

See what I mean ;-)

Optimum rocks. It reacts to your pad choice, doesn't dust up, and you can work it in forever. That's why I reach for it instead of SSR2.5 nowadays.

 

[trance_in_miami]

:thumbsup: We all told you either use something less aggresive or change pad. :beer: We would love to see some pictures. op:

 

[BLK_03]

:thumbsup: We all told you either use something less aggresive or change pad. :beer: We would love to see some pictures. op:

Yeah yeah yeah, I hear ya... :-D

I'll see what I can do about the pics. I taped off a section of the hood where I used the optimum yesterday vs. the ssr series detail I did a week ago. It is a subtle but gratifying difference. I don't know how well I can pick it up with a camera, but I'll do my best.

 

[BLK_03]

Ok. Here are the pictures. The following was after a full detail using SSR products (2.5/2/1) then Clearkote Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze.

In virtually ALL light sources including bright sun, gas station lights, etc. the finish is swirl and scratch free. It is the kind of finish that when you see the car makes you say, "that car is clean..."

But as I mentioned earlier, in synthetic light (huge overhead fluorescent lights, a halogen work light on a tripod, and a high powered flashlight I carry around), you could still see some micro marring... You have to get your face REALLY close to the paint and catch it in just the right angle, but it is there.

Here it is after I taped off a section and used Optimum polish on a white pad, then black pad (lake country brand) on the left side of the tape. For whatever reason, the flash of the camera REALLY accentuated the micro marring. It doesn't look this bad to the human eye.

 

[trance_in_miami]

SOAKING WET! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :coolman:

Question on this picture did you use only optimum or did you used the SSR 1 & 2.5 with different pads before the optimum ? Also is was the right side touched ?

?


I can imagine how BAD ASS! your car look now :coolman:

 

[BLK_03]

In the first pic, that is how it looked before I touched it with any Optimum. When you get real close to the paint, from the correct angle, you see the imperfections.

In the second pic, and to answer your question, all I did was go over the surface with Optimum and a white lake country pad, then Optimum with a black finishing lake country pad.

I'll be going over the whole car once again with the "Optimum dual stage hook-up"...

Guess the SSR's will collect some dust now... :bored:

 

[Kevin the Clean 1]

Damn BLK_03, that Optimum polish is going to be 1 of the first things I get for my blk 04. I know exactly what you are talking about when you say the flourescent lights bring out all the subtleties. I thought I was begining to loose my mind with this black car. It is good to know that I was not the only one with extremely good eyesight that say the small stuff too. :beer:

 

[BLK_03]

Damn BLK_03, that Optimum polish is going to be 1 of the first things I get for my blk 04. I know exactly what you are talking about when you say the flourescent lights bring out all the subtleties. I thought I was begining to loose my mind with this black car. It is good to know that I was not the only one with extremely good eyesight that say the small stuff too. :beer:

Optimum dude!!! Then VMHG and whatever Carnuba you prefer. Then enjoy the hell out of your car.

 

[joemayo]

I have a sonic blue so what should I buy since my car has never been clayed etc..
Clay-(what kind)
2.5 or optimum?
What kindof sealant/wax

And if I buy a porter cable kit should I buy the PoorBoys Kit or Optimum?

 

[Kevin the Clean 1]

Sounds very good BLK_03. I will get some new pads (light cut, polishing, & finishing), Optimum, restock my MF towels & go to town with my PC. I can't wait... :beer: Since my COBRA is very clean (it's an 04 with only 3K on it) should I start with the light cut or just go right to the polishing & then finishing? Just curious if you thought I need that 3rd stepp in the whole polishing process!

 

[BLK_03]

I have a sonic blue so what should I buy since my car has never been clayed etc..
Clay-(what kind)
2.5 or optimum?
What kindof sealant/wax

And if I buy a porter cable kit should I buy the PoorBoys Kit or Optimum?

It depends on the condition of your paint. Is the car HEAVILY swirled or scratched???

If there are just light surface imperfections, I would say skip the 2.5.

I am not familiar with the Poorboys or Optimum "kits" as you say for the porter cable.

I just picked up a porter cable from lowe's, got a backing plate for 6 inch Lake Country pads, and went to it. I prefer Lake Country pads over Propel pads (these are the only two I have tried). The Propel pads fell apart. Get a white pad (light cutting) black (polishing), and blue (finishing) pad.

Optimum polish on the white pad (speed 6). Optimum polish on the black pad (speed 6). Then whatever you want from there. I use Clearkote Vanilla Moose Hand Glaze on a blue pad (speed 4). Then carnuba wax by hand.

Others may chip in for better combos on Sonic Blue, but by all means, I would start with the Optimum with the white and black pads.

If you find the optimum isn't cutting the scratches or swirls you have, get an extra white pad and some 2.5 to use before the Optimum. You may have to work the Optimum a little longer on the areas where you use the 2.5 to remove the micro marring (evident by the pics I posted above).

 

[BLK_03]

Sounds very good BLK_03. I will get some new pads (light cut, polishing, & finishing), Optimum, restock my MF towels & go to town with my PC. I can't wait... :beer: Since my COBRA is very clean (it's an 04 with only 3K on it) should I start with the light cut or just go right to the polishing & then finishing? Just curious if you thought I need that 3rd stepp in the whole polishing process!

Sheesh. All of a sudden I'm an expert... lol.

I guess it just depends on the condition of the paint. Get a REALLY good light to shine on the panel you are working on. It is invaluable.

I use one like this

Lake Country Pads get my vote by all means. They are rugged, durable, and easy to maneuver where you want.

All you can do is try it. Try the Optimum on the black pad only and see if it gets what you want. If not, use the white pad first. Then the VMHG and whatever carnuba... It's a golden combo for black, I'm tellin' ya.