Looking for 03 Cobra Spring Install Instructions

[RED2003COBRA]

I've searched the forums for installation instructions to change the springs on my 03 cobra and have had no luck. I'm looking at adding a set of H&R Race Springs and was looking for any extra info. I've installed a set on my 00 GT a few years ago, but lost those instructions long ago. Is there any special issues with the IRS? I even checked stangnet and corral.net with no luck. Thanks for any help.

Lance

 

[plan b]

It is easiest to drop the complete IRS assembly out of the car for all the bushings. I dropped the whole IRS down to have access to all the bushings. I disconnected everything that wouldn't allow the IRS to drop cleanly. There are alot of different ways to do this but the way I described worked for me!

 

[MidLifeC]

There are instructions here somewhere - I used them to deinstall my springs. I did it the easy way by using the Autozone rental removal, which required some spacers. It is way more dangerous since the compressed spring can come out of the compressor with a lot of energy(I used chains for safety). I would NOT consider using it for installing springs.

 

[RED2003COBRA]

Anybody? I found some mustang spring install instuctions using Google, but nothing for the IRS. The front end I'm comfortable with. The IRS I have no idea about.

Lance

 

[JSpeed]

I can install springs in a mustang with no spring compressor. I have done it a few times with no issues. I am installing the rears tomorrow. Maybe I will take some pics for you.

 

[RED2003COBRA]

I can install springs in a mustang with no spring compressor. I have done it a few times with no issues. I am installing the rears tomorrow. Maybe I will take some pics for you.

I would really appreciate it. Thanks.

Lance

 

[RussZTT]

I can install springs in a mustang with no spring compressor. I have done it a few times with no issues. I am installing the rears tomorrow. Maybe I will take some pics for you.

Since I am going to do the springs myself also, I would like to see some pics too :rockon:

 

[BLK03SVT10TH]

In a nut shell you just remove the 2 Rear IRS Bolts and pivot the entire IRS Assembly down in the rear, remove the old springs and install the new ones, jack the IRS Assembly back into position and re-install the IRS Bolts.

P.S. There are a few other components that need loosened/removed before you tilt the assembly down, one of the being the lower shock mounts. Just use your eyes and your head and you can do this easily. Also, there is no need to remove the drive shaft, just rotate it so the u-joint pivots in the up and down position.

 

[Chappy]

Here is a writeup I did a while back...

Sorry I don't have any pictures, but this is how I did it. I'm sure there are other ways that will work fine, but this is what worked for me. As with all things, be careful as springs can hurt you if you do not handle them properly. This is for informational purposes only, use at your own risk. I used air tools for quite a few things so that will make it much easier, but it can definitely be done without them. It will just require some long breaker bars on a few things.

FRONT SPRINGS -

First things first, go down to Autozone and rent a tie rod separater. Don't get the pickle fork looking job, get the one that looks kinda like a pulley puller.

Jack up the car, pick a side to start with.

Take the wheel off

Take the brake caliper off by removing the little pin that is at the rear of the caliper by the caliper bracket. This pin is held on with a small c-clip on the back side of the caliper. Be careful when removing this clip as it can fly off very easy, would be easy to lose.
Remove the caliper from the caliper braket and tie/ziptie it up and out of the way.

Next undo the front sway bar end link. The nut is on the bottom of the control arm, I believe it is a 15mm.

Looking at the left side of the shock tower you will notice where the ABS sensor harness is attached to a bracket by rubber gromets. Take the sensor harness out of the brakets. Then undo the nut that holds the ABS harness onto the strut bolts. (Believe it is a 15/16)

Next take the cotter pin out of the tie rod, undo the tie rod nut (think it is an 18mm). Then take the tie rod puller and pop the tie rod lose from the spindle. It will take a couple of turns and then it will pop very loud as it comes out of the spindle.

Place a jack under the contol arm around where the ball joint is located, jack it up to preload things a little bit. Undo both strut to spindle mounting nuts (15/16?), remove the bolts from the back side (13/16?).

At this point everything is lose, so drop the jack down. This will relieve most of the tension on the spring, but it might require some slight pushing down of the control arm/prying on the spring to get it out of the spring seats.

This is the point where each application might change. With my race springs with no front isolators the spring pretty much went back in without any problems. You might have to use a spring compressor to get your spring into the location with isolators on it.

Put the spring back in (make sure that the spring is in the seat in the correct location), place the jack back under the ball joint location. Jack it back up to the point where the control arm is almost level (or until right before it starts to lift the car off your jack stands). Line up the strut mounting holes with the holes on the spindle. Put your bolts back in and nut them. Tighten them down to torque spec.

Next slide the tie rod back up into the spindle hole and thread the castle nut back on. Tighten this back down to specification and then put the cotter in back in to lock it down.

Put the ABS bracket back onto the strut bolts and tighten back down the retaining nut. Then put the ABS harness back into the brackets the same way you removed them.

Slide the brake caliper back on and place the pin back in. Remember to put the small washer and C-clip back on the back side of the caliper.

Wait to reattach the swaybar endlink until you have finished the springs on the opposite side. Once you have completed the other side, jack up the control arm to get the sway bar end link back into place. Put the bushing and then washer/nut back onto the bottom of the end link and tighten it back up.

After that, all you need to do is put the wheels back on and you're done. I would recommend putting some pieces of wood under the tire when you drop the car down to insure that you can get your jack back out from under the car.

REAR SPRINGS

These are pretty straightforward. First jack up the rear of the car, place jack stands in an area around where the front IRS cradle bolt attaches to the body. Take the wheels off on both sides, you will need to work on both sides to do the springs with this method.

Remove the catback system off of the car, it is 4 bolts up by the H/X pipe, then 3 hangers on either side of the exhaust. They can be a PITA to get out depending on how your catback fits. This is by far the biggest PITA of the whole rear end. As a hint I will sometimes use a wrench to pry the rubber hanger off of the exhaust.

Once the catback is off, get a 10mm socket and extension and remove the bolt the holds the brake line up to the body on both sides of the car. This will give you space to drop the rear cradle down without running into any brake line crimping problems.

Next take your jack on one side of the car and jack up the control arm to relieve pressure off of the shock. Take the shock bolt out (18mm). Repeat for the opposite side of the car.

Make note of where the pig tails on the rear springs are facing, this will be important later.

Now that both shock bolts are out and the shocks are not longer attached to the control arms, place the jack under the rear diff and tighten it up. Remove the rear cradle bolts (18mm) that attach it to the body (old quad shock bolt location). Take out both sides bolts.

Drop down the jack and your springs will become lose. Take them out on both sides, get your new springs ready to drop in. Here again my race springs fit right in with just the lower isolator only. You might require a spring compressor to get them in.

Place the spring back into the seats with the pigtail facing the correct way. Get both springs back in and slowly jack the rear end back up into place. Be sure to stop often to ensure that the springs are going back in their seats correctly. Once you get them so they are tight, keep jacking up to line back up the rear cradle bolts.

Place the bolts back into the rear locations and torque them down to specification.

Release pressure on the jack and move it out of the carrier area to one contol arm, jack the control arm up to get the shock bolt back in. Torque to spec. Repeat for the other side.

Bolt the brake line brackets back up to the body. Put the catback back on the car and bolt it in, make sure to get all three hangers per side back connected.

The rear of the car is done (obviously put the wheels back on). Again it might require you to have some pieces of wood under the rear tires to get the jack out from under the car.




I don't think I'm leaving off, but there might be something little that I am overlooking right now. This gives you an idea of how I did it. Like I said before, everyone has their ways. I changed all 4 springs by myself last night in about 4 hours. With that being said, don't get frustrated as it might take you longer if you are using hand tools and don't have much experience working on cars. Hope this helps.

 

[RED2003COBRA]

Thanks for the write up.

Lance

 

[venmos1]

what would this cost to get installed at a shop? im no mechanic:shrug:

 

[OmahaStang]

what would this cost to get installed at a shop? im no mechanic:shrug:

Detto.. I did my springs in my fox body but not sure I want to tackle this one..

 

[pvteye]

I have been quoted from $100 to $300, 300 was at a SVT Dealer, $100 at a private shop that had done GT's but never a Cobra, springs are still sitting in the house.

 

[Killa B]

Here are the instructions I used when I did my H & R Sports, this was written by another member........can" remember the name though

1. Get the car on 4 jack stands (if you only have 2, then do the front and then the rear.) Get all the tires off

FRONT
2. starting in the front, get the calipers off. That little pin in the back with the c clip will do the trick. I tucked them up behind the struts and set them on that ledge up there. Then take the abs line and under it from the double hook, so it has slack.
3. Take the sway bar off, remove it from the top of the rod.
4. Jack up the side your working on with your jack under the spring perch
5. using an allen key and an open box wrench, take the struts off from the top under the hood. Take the bolt, metal plate, and bushing and set it all to the side so it doesnt get lost.
6. Lower the jack
7. Pry a little bit to get the springs out, but it will pop right out. Its not under extreme pressure any more so you dont have to worry about it flying out.

8. Now it was slightly tricky to pry the new springs in, but I just used a pry bar on the boot of the spring and used the hole in the middle of the perch to pry it in. Didn’t take a lot of effort but its not going to jump in itself. Defiantly not a big deal though.

9. Once you get the springs in, jack the lower a arm back up into place watching the top of the strut and making sure it goes back in the hole up top.

Reverse the removal process to get it back together.

Back

The car should already be up on 4 stands, or now have the rear in the air at least.

Youll defiantly need 2 jacks.

1. Support the diff with your jack.
2. Remove the struts from the lower arms. I used another jack and jacked up the arm, just enough to take the pressure of the strut bolt, near the connecting ball joint.
3. Remove the IRS bolt in the tire well near the strut. Release the jack holding the lower arm
4. Complete same on opposite side.
5. Lower the jack supporting the diff

The springs will fall out, may need to help it some but they defiantly come out with ease. Dont remove the jack completely from the diff, just lower it enough to get the springs out.

Put your new springs in, reverse the steps, and make sure to use the 2nd jack to get the strut bolt in there.


One other thing to note is I only used 2 jack stands at a time and after loosening the rear IRS bolts you will have to find the sweet spot where the bolts are not binding as you take them out, jack the rear end up or down slightly to achieve this

Hope this helps, I was able to lower my car in three hours with these instructions and the help of a friend.

 

[Todd03Blown]

good info

 

[einzatgroupen]

Here is a link with pics. http://www.lx.net/jlynch/pumpkin.htm
The entire link is for pumpkin removal, though you have to do the same process to get to the springs. I just did it and it's very easy.

 

[pvteye]

actually Joe has a illustrated spring install here http://www.lx.net/jlynch/kbspring.htm was on his '99 but the same procedure for the 01, 03 and 04

 

[Dior55]

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165904

This was the thread I used. Easiest and seems to be what Killa B did.

 

[03SonicStang]

Did my Front HR Race Springs and have a question

Well, this was my first spring install and it went pretty good with the exception of: I tried using an allen key and an open box wrench to get the strut tower nut off and I slightly cracked the allen key hole. I stopped and removed the lower strut bolts and all when back together great.

My question is I'm I screwed if I need CC Plates to get the nut off? The crack is not huge but there.

FOR The life of me I could not get the top nut off.....thoughts and/or comments guys

Thanks