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SVT Shelby GT500
Liquid Cooled Kenne Bell Lines through the Engine Coolant System
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<blockquote data-quote="Poisonous West" data-source="post: 15666173" data-attributes="member: 157145"><p>Bad Company always got it right!!!</p><p></p><p>The intend of the KB L/C design is to <strong><u>try </u></strong>to cools down (balance) the front portion of the main supercharger housing .Never to lower the IAT2 – even though some guys claims it will prevent heat soak but it does <strong><u>NOT</u></strong> work that way.</p><p></p><p>There are <strong><u>3 major heat sources</u></strong> for the supercharger housing:</p><p></p><p>· Heat conduction from the engine (average cylinder head temperature ~ 200 - 220F) – GT500 S/C bolts to an aluminum intake manifold (extremely heat conductor) which bolts to the hot cylinder head</p><p></p><p>· Heat due to compressing air inside the S/C (this varies on the boost level and really nothing you can do because compressing air <strong><u>WILL</u></strong> generate heat)</p><p></p><p>· Heat due to rotating parts (bearings inside the S/C, etc.)</p><p></p><p>Heat conduction from HOT cylinder heat can be <strong><u>minimalized</u></strong> by making a custom spacer (made of composite material) place between the manifold and cylinder head. In addition, custom machine the intake manifold to remove the hot water passage (both front and rear). Then make some custom adaptors for the front and rear water outlets on the cylinder head. The main benefit of this is to <strong><u>LOWER</u></strong> IAT2 and S/C main housing. Fischer Motorsport has made this set but the price is <strong><u>WAY TOO HIGH</u></strong>. I think I have an idea to make my own set of spacers (made of composite material) and some custom adaptors for the front and rear water outlets for about ¼ of what Fischer Motorsport charge.</p><p></p><p>Heat due to compressing air can also be <strong><u>minimalized</u></strong> if you have BIG BIG BIG $$$ that you can spare. It is 3-D print the S/C housing using <strong><u>Carbon Composite material</u></strong>. This material is <strong><u>NOT</u></strong> easy to find and MOST of the 3-D printing shop out there do NOT offer this material because it is very expensive. Only big company have access and have the $$$ to afford this material. I have seemed (actually held in my hand for inspection) a 3-D print part made of <strong><u>Carbon Composite material. </u></strong>They are super strong and low heat conduction but requires post processing treatment to make the surface smooth – the part I inspected has this post processing treatment.</p><p></p><p>Heat due to rotating parts like bearings, gears, oil can be cooling by using liquid which is KB L/C design. There are total of 6 bearings inside a S/C for the GT500.</p><p></p><p>· 2 bearings in the back (pressed into the main S/C housing) cool by the incoming ambient temperature.</p><p></p><p>· 2 bearings pressed into the center bearing support plate for the rotor packs.</p><p></p><p>· 2 bearings for the front pulley shaft (pressed into the front small housing)</p><p></p><p>Due to rotating gears, these 4 bearings (the front and the 2 in the middle) are cooled by the oil. In the KB L/C design, this is what they are trying to cools down – the hot oil and in turn cools down the bearings, the center bearing support plate, the main housing, and the front small housing.</p><p></p><p>I already have designed a L/C center bearing support plate that work for the TVS S/C. I truly believe my L/C center bearing support plate design is even better than the KB design. The local machine shop quote me very reasonable price to machine the plate but for whatever reason their CNC machine does NOT have the tight tolerance I need. Also, there are 2 seal that needs to replace which is hard to find. I talk to VMP before but they can’t help. I am very sure VMP can <strong><u>EASILY</u></strong> get a few of this seal from Roush since their VMP Gen II-R S/C are assemble buy Roush.</p><p></p><p> </p><p></p><p>One final note, for those who has the KB Bigun intercooler, the instruction calls out to machine (cut) the front 0.25” (6.35mm). That’s not correct. I have seemed pictures of few machined manifold at 0.25” with the Bigun intercooler installed. I also did multiple measurement to confirm that before I machine my intake manifold. The correct length to cut at the front is 8mm and that’s how I machine it on my own manifold.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Poisonous West, post: 15666173, member: 157145"] Bad Company always got it right!!! The intend of the KB L/C design is to [B][U]try [/U][/B]to cools down (balance) the front portion of the main supercharger housing .Never to lower the IAT2 – even though some guys claims it will prevent heat soak but it does [B][U]NOT[/U][/B] work that way. There are [B][U]3 major heat sources[/U][/B] for the supercharger housing: · Heat conduction from the engine (average cylinder head temperature ~ 200 - 220F) – GT500 S/C bolts to an aluminum intake manifold (extremely heat conductor) which bolts to the hot cylinder head · Heat due to compressing air inside the S/C (this varies on the boost level and really nothing you can do because compressing air [B][U]WILL[/U][/B] generate heat) · Heat due to rotating parts (bearings inside the S/C, etc.) Heat conduction from HOT cylinder heat can be [B][U]minimalized[/U][/B] by making a custom spacer (made of composite material) place between the manifold and cylinder head. In addition, custom machine the intake manifold to remove the hot water passage (both front and rear). Then make some custom adaptors for the front and rear water outlets on the cylinder head. The main benefit of this is to [B][U]LOWER[/U][/B] IAT2 and S/C main housing. Fischer Motorsport has made this set but the price is [B][U]WAY TOO HIGH[/U][/B]. I think I have an idea to make my own set of spacers (made of composite material) and some custom adaptors for the front and rear water outlets for about ¼ of what Fischer Motorsport charge. Heat due to compressing air can also be [B][U]minimalized[/U][/B] if you have BIG BIG BIG $$$ that you can spare. It is 3-D print the S/C housing using [B][U]Carbon Composite material[/U][/B]. This material is [B][U]NOT[/U][/B] easy to find and MOST of the 3-D printing shop out there do NOT offer this material because it is very expensive. Only big company have access and have the $$$ to afford this material. I have seemed (actually held in my hand for inspection) a 3-D print part made of [B][U]Carbon Composite material. [/U][/B]They are super strong and low heat conduction but requires post processing treatment to make the surface smooth – the part I inspected has this post processing treatment. Heat due to rotating parts like bearings, gears, oil can be cooling by using liquid which is KB L/C design. There are total of 6 bearings inside a S/C for the GT500. · 2 bearings in the back (pressed into the main S/C housing) cool by the incoming ambient temperature. · 2 bearings pressed into the center bearing support plate for the rotor packs. · 2 bearings for the front pulley shaft (pressed into the front small housing) Due to rotating gears, these 4 bearings (the front and the 2 in the middle) are cooled by the oil. In the KB L/C design, this is what they are trying to cools down – the hot oil and in turn cools down the bearings, the center bearing support plate, the main housing, and the front small housing. I already have designed a L/C center bearing support plate that work for the TVS S/C. I truly believe my L/C center bearing support plate design is even better than the KB design. The local machine shop quote me very reasonable price to machine the plate but for whatever reason their CNC machine does NOT have the tight tolerance I need. Also, there are 2 seal that needs to replace which is hard to find. I talk to VMP before but they can’t help. I am very sure VMP can [B][U]EASILY[/U][/B] get a few of this seal from Roush since their VMP Gen II-R S/C are assemble buy Roush. One final note, for those who has the KB Bigun intercooler, the instruction calls out to machine (cut) the front 0.25” (6.35mm). That’s not correct. I have seemed pictures of few machined manifold at 0.25” with the Bigun intercooler installed. I also did multiple measurement to confirm that before I machine my intake manifold. The correct length to cut at the front is 8mm and that’s how I machine it on my own manifold. [/QUOTE]
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Liquid Cooled Kenne Bell Lines through the Engine Coolant System
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