Line lock tips?

[Crstfr]

So I bought the SLP line lock, with it's prebent lines, and easy to install setup. It's very nice, instructions are very clear, etc.

Just wondering if anyone else has installed it... and if so, pointers?

The recommendation from SLP is to remove the master cylinder, but I have 0 idea of how to bleed that, once I put it back on. I can bleed the brakes just fine - but the MC?

:smmon:

Thanks all!

 

[Crstfr]

anyone?

 

[OLD FART]

Sorry, just saw your post. Bench bleed the master cylinder if
you lose too much fluid, by clamping one "ear" in a vise, put your
fingers over the holes, and push the piston all the way in with a
screwdriver. Allow the fluid to come out (controlled!!, don't get
splashed), then when the piston is fully compressed, make sure
to plug the holes with you fingers well, so no air gets sucked
back in. Alternately, if you can find the right fittings, you can run
short lines from the holes to the reservoir, and position them so
they remain under the fluid level in the MC. Pump the piston
several times, till no air bubbles come out the tubes. (This way
takes much longer, and you make the same mess when you
remove the short tubes anyway). Then when you put the MC
back on the car, snug up the lines, and have a buddy push the
pedal down and hold it. Have the lines cracked loose while
pushing the pedal, and tighten them back up before the pedal is
released. Do this several times, making sure fluid is not sprayed
out on any painted surfaces. IMMEDIATELY flush any painted area
with water (keep a gallon jug full of water sitting handy JIC).
You can also use the same procedure with the fitting after the
linelock to bleed the line from the MC to the LL. Don't let the
brake fluid sit on anything too long, including wires, rubber, etc..
as damage can occur. Also, brake fluid is hygroscopic, meaning
it attracts water (which contaminates the fluid). Don't leave your
system open too long. If you need to leave for any reason, find
a plug that fits snug for every open line so your system doesn't
get contaminated with moisture from the air. I would only bleed
the system to the farrest (sp?) point you had open. Try not to let
air into the system that could get trapped in the ABS system, or
you'll have to take it to a dealership or other shop that has the
proper equipment to perform a proper ABS bleed procedure. Use
a bunch of fender covers or towels, and pay attention to any drips
that might occur as you move a component to or from the car over
the paint or fender. Water is the best (plentiful, cheap) solvent
for brake fluid, although there is Brake Cleaner at the parts store.
The BC can discolor plastic or other components it contacts.
Water is the best. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, maybe
you should take it to a reputable shop or dealer. Once you work
on brakes a few times, it's no big deal, but it's real easy to screw
up paint if you're not careful. Good Luck!