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2013-14 Shelby GT500
Lifter/rocker noise...
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<blockquote data-quote="Robot_trainer" data-source="post: 13968428" data-attributes="member: 157423"><p>Oil is the last thing I would put the blame on unless you are running cooking oil. Here a few stories that I have to share throughout my years in this crazy hobby:</p><p></p><p>With respect to techs: </p><p></p><p>I owned a 2000 GMC Sierra new. After about 28000km, I notices some rust marks on the front bumper just under the plastic trim. I took it into the dealer to have him assess what was going on. The techs answer was that I was not getting enough wax on the bumper in that area. I asked him since when does chrome rust? Needless to say I was done with them</p><p></p><p>With respect to oil:</p><p></p><p>I've been involved with racing and race shops for years. A fellow had a really nice 58 Corvette drag car that was running a stroked alcohol injected small block. He lost a bunch of bearings and because he recently changed oil types (both viscosity and brands) he blamed it on the oil. Turns out alcohol was seeping into the oil pan. It was tough to figure out because once the engine got hot, the alcohol would flash off.</p><p></p><p>Strange engine noises:</p><p></p><p>Happened to my 472 Chrysler hemi. Developed what sounded like a lifter problem. Replaced all of the lifters and adjusted the preload several times. It keep coming and going, worse when it got warm. I finally pulled the engine and ran it on a dyno for hours. We pin pointed it to a bank but never could figure out which one was the problem. Replaced the entire cam with a roller. ran it on the dyno the following spring. After a couple of warm up runs and re-adjusting the valve train we fired it back up and it was running on 4 cylinders. Long story short.....valve seat fell out of the head! That was the noise all along. When the engine got hot, the seat would loosen. When it cooled it tightened back up so you could tell even with the head off.</p><p></p><p>You can pretty much run any viscosity you want as long as it maintains the correct oil pressure when it gets hot at idle and under load. You want to make sure that oil is getting to the top end at idle hot and there is enough hydrostatic pressure to keep the the crank and rod bearing away from the journals at high rpm/loads. The SAE number is really just a range. The centistoke number is what really tells what's going on. Since the 5W50 Motorcraft shears down to what the Amsoil 10W40 starts and stays at, I think you would be OK with that oil. And since the 10W40 flows better in the cold, its an added bonus.</p><p></p><p>Bad filters on the other hand, can wreak all kinds of havoc. Not to say that any oil filter can't fail (it's an imperfect world), there are some that have a nasty reputation.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Robot_trainer, post: 13968428, member: 157423"] Oil is the last thing I would put the blame on unless you are running cooking oil. Here a few stories that I have to share throughout my years in this crazy hobby: With respect to techs: I owned a 2000 GMC Sierra new. After about 28000km, I notices some rust marks on the front bumper just under the plastic trim. I took it into the dealer to have him assess what was going on. The techs answer was that I was not getting enough wax on the bumper in that area. I asked him since when does chrome rust? Needless to say I was done with them With respect to oil: I've been involved with racing and race shops for years. A fellow had a really nice 58 Corvette drag car that was running a stroked alcohol injected small block. He lost a bunch of bearings and because he recently changed oil types (both viscosity and brands) he blamed it on the oil. Turns out alcohol was seeping into the oil pan. It was tough to figure out because once the engine got hot, the alcohol would flash off. Strange engine noises: Happened to my 472 Chrysler hemi. Developed what sounded like a lifter problem. Replaced all of the lifters and adjusted the preload several times. It keep coming and going, worse when it got warm. I finally pulled the engine and ran it on a dyno for hours. We pin pointed it to a bank but never could figure out which one was the problem. Replaced the entire cam with a roller. ran it on the dyno the following spring. After a couple of warm up runs and re-adjusting the valve train we fired it back up and it was running on 4 cylinders. Long story short.....valve seat fell out of the head! That was the noise all along. When the engine got hot, the seat would loosen. When it cooled it tightened back up so you could tell even with the head off. You can pretty much run any viscosity you want as long as it maintains the correct oil pressure when it gets hot at idle and under load. You want to make sure that oil is getting to the top end at idle hot and there is enough hydrostatic pressure to keep the the crank and rod bearing away from the journals at high rpm/loads. The SAE number is really just a range. The centistoke number is what really tells what's going on. Since the 5W50 Motorcraft shears down to what the Amsoil 10W40 starts and stays at, I think you would be OK with that oil. And since the 10W40 flows better in the cold, its an added bonus. Bad filters on the other hand, can wreak all kinds of havoc. Not to say that any oil filter can't fail (it's an imperfect world), there are some that have a nasty reputation. [/QUOTE]
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Lifter/rocker noise...
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