LFP 3/8 Spacers Wobble

Cobra-21

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(Long story...)So in April I finally upgraded to 17x10.5 rears with a 315 tire, and bought a set of LFP 3/8" hubcentric spacers with the extended nuts. (After EXTENSIVE research here and around the web these had a very good reputation.) Bought the FR500 replica rims from Discount Tire. These are not AFS wheels, they are "ZR" I think (they tossed out the boxes before I could ask for them.

So I've been driving on these for 3,000 miles, and this week I'm driving down the road at 45 and a guy pulls up on my right, waving at me to roll down the window. He points at the right rear and says I need to get that checked out. So I pulled off the road into a gas station right then, had no idea what the issue is. Checked the tire pressure-good. No visible problems. Take it home and check all the lugnut torque, all good. Had a buddy follow me and watch the rim, he couldn't see any issue.

So I take it back to Discount, and the first thing they say is they cannot and will not work on cars with spacers. I talk him into it (just this one time) and they put the tire on the balancer, needs a weight or 2 but otherwise OK. Then tried to put the rim back on the car and notice the spacer does not fit flush into the back of the rim. Pressed all the way in and still has like a 1/16" air gap. Appears there is a fillet machined into the spacer and that is keeping it from seating in the rim. (Hub side sits flush no problem). So with an air gap there is potential for wobble, which is probably what the dude on the road saw.

I just did another hour of searching and found some references to "the LFP spacers are made for AFS wheels but not other aftermarket rims". So I'm wondering if anyone else had a similar issue and am I now forced to go with a flat spacer (DivisionX) instead of the hubcentric.

Ideas/thoughts ?
 

RTCOBRA2964

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There has been several threads regarding this same problem. Its the center portion that causes it not to sit flush. I don't recall what has been done to correct the issue but it was the LFP brand hub-centric spacers. I suggest the Lethal Performance spacers.
 

BBCOBRA

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I have the lfp 3/8 spacers on mine (I think, cant remember the brand but they are the hub centric with the extended lug nuts) with 18x10 fr500's. I got them from cruzin concepts. I believe they are the same ZR brand you have. I've had no issues with mine. It may be that the machining on your spacers is a little off or may be the rim is a little off. Have you tried to swap with the other side to see if it's the rim or the spacer. Worth a try.
 
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Cobra-21

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IHave you tried to swap with the other side to see if it's the rim or the spacer. Worth a try.
I will be pulling both sides off and will compare them, I have a feeling it's just the way these rims are cast, the spacers don't fit flush in the rim side.

Thanks for all the replies...will put the stock rims back on today until I resolve this.
 

RTCOBRA2964

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I will be pulling both sides off and will compare them, I have a feeling it's just the way these rims are cast, the spacers don't fit flush in the rim side.

Thanks for all the replies...will put the stock rims back on today until I resolve this.

Take the spacers off and try to fit them flush on the stock rims. I think your problem is the spacers center section is larger than it's supposed to be.
 

GSPsnFORDs

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No problems with mine from Lethal. I'd try to modify them if you know exactly what's wrong and have the capabilities or order from Lethal. I know, not much help..Just my $0.02
 

Cobra-21

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Update

Pullled the wheel off the car, and test fit the spacer to the back of the wheel hub. Got it in as firmly as I could, even used a rubber mallet to seat it fully. Got a feeler guage and found I still had over .035 clearance between the spacer and the wheel mounting surface pads. Thats a spark plug gap!

So now more drama-went to remove the other side, got 4 lugs off and the 5th is not budging. Put a breaker bar on it and it slowly turns out. But then it just turns and turns and won't come off. So now the stud is loose and wobbly, the splines on the hub are not holding it. Now I can't even take the wheel off. So I guess this is the dreaded "LFP lugnuts had chrome on the inside threads and it won't thread off" syndrome.

So now I need to get that nut off AND install a new stud in the hub. Great weekend.

Did an hour of search to find how to fix this and here are the options I found:
Use a torch to heat it -Not an option with my brand new rims
Use a nut splitter-Not enough room to get one in there onto the lug nut
Dremel the lug nut off-Might be room to do some damage but not sure if I can get the whole thing or not.
Drill the stud out of the lugnut(drill through the end of the nut and drill the stud)-Well this may work but not sure if my 3/8 drill has the guts for the job.
Plus all these opitons have the danger of screwing up my new rims.

Any other choices you can think of? One post I saw mentioned a "freeze-off" product to make the lug nut brittle then bust it off. Anybody heard of this pruduct?
 
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Cobra-21

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Another Update

Made one last try to get that nut off. Cocked the wheel so I could get some leverage, put some of the cars weight on it, and pulled the tire towards me as hard as I could while running the impact. 2 shots and it came off!! So the stud stripped about 5 threads off but the rest is intact, not even loose. The threads in the nut are mangled as well. See the photo at bottom. Now I just have to decide if I should replace that stud or leave it as is. Hate to give up 5 threads. Will look into the how-to section for stud replacement and see how hard it is.

 

Cobra-21

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Yeah I saw that short video on YouTube, pretty impressive. Thankfully I got the nut and wheel off so now just have to replace the stud.
 

CCS_56_EX

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Glad you got the lug nut off! It seems like a lot of people have problems with the extended nuts. I had 3 break on one side, and 2 on the other - looked just like yours. What are your plans for a replacement wheel stud(s)? OEM or aftermarket?
 

RTCOBRA2964

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Since you're gonna replace the stud, you might as well replace them all with ARP extended studs and get some billet hub-centric spacers from LP or similar. It'll be money well spent and you'll be doing it the better way.
 

black 10th vert

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As said, definitely go with extended studs instead of those hokey lugnuts! I discovered the same issue as you with the chamfer, but luckily I have a lathe and Bridgeport, so I was able to just reduce the chamfer until they would sit flush. I went through this a few years back. I ordered ARP 3" studs, and just cut them to the exact length I needed since the Steeda ones that are the correct length are super expensive. I can't remember, but I think it was 2 1/2", or something.
 

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