LDC question.

[SlowImport]

I have searched and didnt really find the exact answer that I was looking for.

Basicly will this help with heat soak and how much of a difference will it make in my engine temps?

I have heard everyone loving it but thats all they say. They never really say why they love it. lol

Im about to do a clutch swap and wondering if I should cough up the extra cash for this mod.

thanks in advance,
Josh

 

[flyn high again]

Josh, there's some info on our site. www.ldcchicago.com

I'm not our tech guy but I'll give it a shot: The stock driver's head on our cars forces the coolant to flow in from the front and then back forward out the front. This can cause some dead heading of coolant around the #7 and #8 cylinders. These cylinders can get too hot as evidenced by these cylinders failing on many 4 valve [and other] motors. Basically the LDC Chicago Cooling Mod knocks a freeze plug out of the back of the driver's head and routes the coolant out of the head from the back and over to "T" into the passenger head outlet [the passenger head already has an outlet on the back of the head]. The kit allows the coolant to flow in the front of the head and out the back and provides a direct path so the coolant flows out of the head more efficiently instead of sitting in the head collecting heat. The coolant no longer has to work against acceleration but instead flows with it.

Cliff

 

[evans03c]

Clutch is coming out? I would definately do this mod:rockon:

 

[GrimlokTT]

Josh, there's some info on our site. www.ldcchicago.com
Cliff

Cliff,

Not to be disrespectful, but I was going to buy that until I found out how much it was. Why such a high price for so few components?!!

 

[SnakeBit]

The work is first class. When you actually see one in person and compare it to the stock piece on the passenger side, you'll appreciate how much work went into making this product.

You can make your own. Do a seach and you'll come up with cheaper altenatives. But how much is a failure gonna cost? Do a search on "Apten Cooling mod" and you'll find out. Just my opinion.

 

[dougwg]

Labor... lots of American labor.

cut, weld, weld some more, paint and Pressure Tested!

Plus the silicone hose isn't cheap.

LDC Chicago Cooling Mod Kit is not a crap shoot.
:beer:

 

[dougwg]

For years it has been standard practice to replace the "throw out bearing" when doing a clutch swap, even if the the TOB is known to be good.

You jack up the car, remove the exhaust, pull the trans.
Install a clutch that cost around $700 (more or less) into your $35,000 Mustang. So whats the big deal... might as well install a brand new TOB.... RIGHT?

Same thing with the LDC Kit. You're there, it's all disassembled and it can only help your $10,000 engine.

BTW: Get the "LDC Chicago Clutch Freeplay Correction Kit" while you're at it also..... it's only $15

Hope this helps

Happy Modding

 

[flyn high again]

Cliff,

Not to be disrespectful, but I was going to buy that until I found out how much it was. Why such a high price for so few components?!!

No problem. Asking questions is the best way to get info.

As the guys below you posted, the fabrication and TIG welding of the two fittings is very labor intensive and expensive. After buying two fittings from Ford, we have a couple hours of labor in constructing the fittings for each kit. Then each fitting must be pressure tested which adds more labor time. If they don't pass, they aren't sold so any rejected fittings add to our costs. Next, add in some more labor and equipment for each fitting's painting prep work and finishing work not to mention the labor and materials involved with packaging and shipping and the end result is a small profit for each kit sold. If we weren't doing all the labor ourselves, the construction of the kits would cost MORE than we sell them for. We were quoted $200.00 for the fitting construction alone when we tested the market. If we farmed out the construction the way most companies do, the kits would cost $300.00 [or more]. American labor is expensive. There's no way around it unless you want to use third world fabricators which could jeapordize quality. Our kits are built to very high quality standards and we will not lower the quality in order to lower the kit price.

Since our kit requires trans removal, we wanted each part to be as well constructed as is humanly possible. Nobody wants to pull a trans to replace a part that isn't working properly. Quality components and quality labor make up the LDC kits. We use silicone hose because it is superior to heater hose. Once again it costs more. Same thing with our silicone hose band clamps. Our thinking is to do the kit right and charge a little more for it. We won't put anything up for sale that we wouldn't be happy installing in our own cars. Our products end up on our cars first so we want them to be the best.

Cliff

 

[blackvenom77]

I had one installed while the were replacing my clutch.
It's good peace of mind knowing your coolant has a new flow route instead of boiling around cylinders 7 & 8. One of the best mods you can to for your engine.:thumbsup:

 

[JB]

if you guys knew Lyle, Dan and Cliff you would know how honest and honorable they really are :beer:

they're filling a niche with a high-quality solution and they aren't shoving it in anyone's face

if you're intelligent enough to realize the benefit of installling it, you should also be able to recognize that it is a good value :thumbsup:


postedit: these comments are not in reply to anyone, particularly anyone who has questioned LDC's pricing......just letting my feelings be known on the subject

 

[Easy]

$200 insurance mod > roasted piston or head tick

besides, when (if) you ever go to sell your cobra many buyers IMO would like to see that you have it on there.

 

[GrimlokTT]

Pricing always...normally and in this case...makes more sense when once understands why it is set where it is. So, the real question is: whether I only drive my car on the street...sometime spirited...should I still get this mod? P.S. I have a Mach...not a Cobra.

On a side note, I did buy the freeplay correction kit; however, the increase in pedal pressure made driving the car a lot less enjoyable. So, I ended up removing it...

 

[flyn high again]

Pricing always...normally and in this case...makes more sense when once understands why it is set where it is. So, the real question is: whether I only drive my car on the street...sometime spirited...should I still get this mod? P.S. I have a Mach...not a Cobra.

On a side note, I did buy the freeplay correction kit; however, the increase in pedal pressure made driving the car a lot less enjoyable. So, I ended up removing it...

The more modified a motor is, the more heat it will make and the more it can use our cooling mod kit. There are so many variables in motor uses and circumstances that it's hard to say for sure if a stock motor needs the kit. In general, the more heat in the head, the more chance of the tick or failure in the 7 or 8 cylinder. If your motor is modified. If you open track race. If you make back to back passes. If you drive at high speeds or high rpms, then the kit will be more useful. Even with a stock motor, it should help to keep temps lower in the back of the driver's head. It's one step in keeping engine temps in a safer range. Heat is the enemy.

As far as the Clutch Freeplay Correction Kit, adding the spring may increase the resistance some but that kit does enough good things that if the pedal resistance doesn't bother you, it's worth installing. It helps keep the TOB off the clutch fingers and helps prevent the pedal flopping around at the top of its travel. You could always try using a spring with less resistance although I'm not sure where to find one. I'll ask Dana about this when I see him next. We are running in the Rev it up racing series this weekend so I will see him then if not before. Thanks for the feedback. It is appreciated. :beer:

 

[SlowImport]

Thanks for everyones help! Since I am putting down 580/510 right now and I am looking to try for 650 off the bottle then the LDC mod might just be what I need to help keep my temps. in check.

So fly high again Ill be giving you a call sometime in the next week or so.

thanks again,
Josh

 

[04CobraMatt]

I need Clutch work aswell and i think im going to order this peice.

From what i see in the pictures, its looks like a very easy Installtion once the tranny/clutch is down?

 

[flyn high again]

I need Clutch work aswell and i think im going to order this peice.

From what i see in the pictures, its looks like a very easy Installtion once the tranny/clutch is down?

It's basically bolt on. Anyone with basic wrenching skills should have no problem.

 

[SnakeBit]

Pricing always...normally and in this case...makes more sense when once understands why it is set where it is. So, the real question is: whether I only drive my car on the street...sometime spirited...should I still get this mod? P.S. I have a Mach...not a Cobra....

IMO, this mod should be done on all of the 4V engines. I've been on the various boards since I first bought my 98 new and have seen enough to know that cyilinders 7 & 8 are the ones most likely to crap out, even on N/A motors. I consider this mod cheap insurance for all of the 4V's. My father-in-law has promised his last year Continental to my wife, and this mod will go on that motor as well.

 

[Dana]

On a side note, I did buy the freeplay correction kit; however, the increase in pedal pressure made driving the car a lot less enjoyable. So, I ended up removing it...

You can try cutting off one or 2 coils of the spring. That will probably reduce the pedal effort. You will get to a point that the kit will become ineffective though, if you take too much off.

We have found that the slight increase in pedal effort far outweighs the alternative, which can be anything from a toasted TOB to broken guide tube, not to mention the dreaded pedal flop.;-)

Dana