LCA and relocation bracket question

iwannacobra5

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i'll start by saying i've got eibach pro kit lowering springs, adj BMR UCA and mount, and a BMR adj pan hard bar.

i'd like to add some LCA's to finish off my suspension mods...for now. my question is, do i need adjustable or nonadjustable LCA's, and will i need relocation brackets? this is just a street car and will probably never see the track.

thanks
 

GT Premi

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Will you "need" relocation brackets? No. Will they help you? Yes, or so I've heard; the logic behind the reasoning is sound. I have new LCAs, and they aren't angled properly yet, so I'm not getting optimum traction; plenty of traction for normal street driving, though. I already have the relocation brackets, but I haven't installed them yet. My car will never see a drag strip, either, but considering how cheap the brackets are and the 15% discount during Christmas, I figured why not.
 

COOL COBRA

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Not trying to step on anyone's toes here but, my car, with non-adj LCA's didn't let my rear square up. It was centered, but not square. If you were to view the car from the top looking down, the rear was turned clockwise under the car. Maybe came from the factory that way, not sure. The widened wheels & tires magnified it. I swapped to BMR adj LCA's & squared it up. End of problem.
 

Van@RevanRacing

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Not trying to step on anyone's toes here but, my car, with non-adj LCA's didn't let my rear square up. It was centered, but not square. If you were to view the car from the top looking down, the rear was turned clockwise under the car. Maybe came from the factory that way, not sure. The widened wheels & tires magnified it. I swapped to BMR adj LCA's & squared it up. End of problem.

That's the second time I've heard of this Cool Cobra.
 

iwannacobra5

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Not trying to step on anyone's toes here but, my car, with non-adj LCA's didn't let my rear square up. It was centered, but not square. If you were to view the car from the top looking down, the rear was turned clockwise under the car. Maybe came from the factory that way, not sure. The widened wheels & tires magnified it. I swapped to BMR adj LCA's & squared it up. End of problem.

so you had to shorten the LCA's to straighten it up?
 

NIXDSG

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So what was the "problem"? The fact that is wasn't square or did it not drive properly? I understand not being square isn't where I'd want it, but if it doesn't cause a problem with how it drove, would I care??

I expect yes, but would like to understand the issues experienced.

Thanks, Nic.
 

COOL COBRA

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Not shorten, just adjust. They have an all thread end w/jamnut. I just measured the tire vs fender opening on each side & adjusted accordingly till it was square. No biggie. Then I had to have my frontend re-aligned cuz messing with the rear made the front alignment off. You say shorten, actually my drivers side was shortened & passenger side lengthened to square it back up. Maybe just the way my individual car is. Like Van says, he's seen it twice. All is good now, the rear stays put & traction is NO PROBLEM like Van promised. With the Toyo's, I can mat it from a 5 mph roll & it sticks 100%. A vid is posted on the ( other site ) in the pic & vid page titled Toyo 888's hook. Check it out! Van won't steer ya wrong!
 

COOL COBRA

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So what was the "problem"? The fact that is wasn't square or did it not drive properly? I understand not being square isn't where I'd want it, but if it doesn't cause a problem with how it drove, would I care??

I expect yes, but would like to understand the issues experienced.

Thanks, Nic.

Nic, I actually didn't notice any driving difference at all. Was waxing my wheels & noticed the difference in gap from tire to lower fender/rocker panel in comparison to each side. Nearly an inch off! The rear was twisted to the passenger side. I was worried about tire & driveline wear so the adj LCA was my only option. The 315 Toyo's are very pricey. Problem is solved now.
 

Iceman5000

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Cool Cobra,

I understand what you are saying, but the proper way to measure is to have your front wheels straight, and then measure front axle to rear axle, Not fender to rear axle. There is a lot of variance on the unibodies of these cars.
 

COOL COBRA

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Cool Cobra,

I understand what you are saying, but the proper way to measure is to have your front wheels straight, and then measure front axle to rear axle, Not fender to rear axle. There is a lot of variance on the unibodies of these cars.

Good point Iceman. I'll check that. PS. Aren't you glad your wheels aren't BLACK!
 

iwannacobra5

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Cool Cobra,

I understand what you are saying, but the proper way to measure is to have your front wheels straight, and then measure front axle to rear axle, Not fender to rear axle. There is a lot of variance on the unibodies of these cars.

What would be the best way to take this measurement? From under the car?
 

COOL COBRA

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What would be the best way to take this measurement? From under the car?

I would think the easiest way would be to have the front wheels straight as Iceman stated. On level ground, with steering wheel centered by looking at the steering wheel spokes, then measure from the front wheel center cap to the rear wheel center cap, on dead center of the cap. That should give a pretty good reference measure. Remember, my rear was nearly a full inch out of whack. That's a lot in my book. With an adj LCA, you can square it up perfectly. Takes a few minutes, but when you're done.. You're done. Hammer on it & don't look back! No more worries. Just enjoy the car...Many cars might have my aforementioned problem & not know it. My widened wheels & meats showed it! Get your tape measures out guys, save the driveline, & tires..
 
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Iceman5000

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Good point Iceman. I'll check that. PS. Aren't you glad your wheels aren't BLACK!

Its funny you should mention that. Thanks to Devious I have been in a quandary all week about powder coating them black. I need to make up my mine fast.
 

Iceman5000

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Good point Iceman. I'll check that. PS. Aren't you glad your wheels aren't BLACK!

I would think the easiest way would be to have the front wheels straight as Iceman stated. On level ground, with steering wheel centered by looking at the steering wheel spokes, then measure from the front wheel center cap to the rear wheel center cap, on dead center of the cap. That should give a pretty good reference measure. Remember, my rear was nearly a full inch out of whack. That's a lot in my book. With an adj LCA, you can square it up perfectly. Takes a few minutes, but when you're done.. You're done. Hammer on it & don't look back! No more worries. Just enjoy the car...

Yes exactly right!!:beer:
 

COOL COBRA

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Its funny you should mention that. Thanks to Devious I have been in a quandary all week about powder coating them black. I need to make up my mine fast.

Don't do it man... Shine is where it's at IMO. Cheaper wheels can be bought for blacking out. I've said before, would be like taking a crayon to a Mona Lisa. I don't get it. That's just me...
 

Iceman5000

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Don't do it man... Shine is where it's at IMO. Cheaper wheels can be bought for blacking out. I've said before, would be like taking a crayon to a Mona Lisa. I don't get it. That's just me...

I have always said the same thing!! Thanks for the advice!
 

COOL COBRA

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Thanks Iceman for helping me advise the OP. And if anyone is thinking of blacking out Alcoa's, sell me your wheels, buy a cheaper wheel to black out, & we'll both be happy. Out.
 

iwannacobra5

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I would think the easiest way would be to have the front wheels straight as Iceman stated. On level ground, with steering wheel centered by looking at the steering wheel spokes, then measure from the front wheel center cap to the rear wheel center cap, on dead center of the cap. That should give a pretty good reference measure. Remember, my rear was nearly a full inch out of whack. That's a lot in my book. With an adj LCA, you can square it up perfectly. Takes a few minutes, but when you're done.. You're done. Hammer on it & don't look back! No more worries. Just enjoy the car...Many cars might have my aforementioned problem & not know it. My widened wheels & meats showed it! Get your tape measures out guys, save the driveline, & tires..

that's what i was thinking... gives me something to check manana... thanks
 

Bad Company

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The best way to measure the car is to put the car on a wheel lift and use 2 plumb bobs hanging from the mounting points for the suspension, ball joints or some other mounting point for the K-member for the front of the car to the shop floor. Than drop 2 plumb bobs from the axle to the floor. Mark each spot on the floor the plumb bob is centered on. Measure the distance on the left side versus the right side to check if the distance is the same. The 4 plumb bobs will form a square on the floor. Than measure across the square diagonally that you've marked on the floor to see if the axles are square to each other.
 

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