I currently have a MT-82 car with a CPR turbo setup. Car makes around 620 to the wheels and currently has some Hoosier QTP 28" tires. I'm having a hell of a time getting off the line with the 2-step. Anything below 3,500 rpms and the car just bogs and it seems like anything above that and I'm roasting the tires off. My question is, are you guys slipping the clutch at the line or just dumping it. I've just been building some boost and dumping it off the line and can't seem to do any better than a 1.8 60ft. Any input is appreciated.
Launching at the track
- Thread starter ryan03svt
- Start date
I know its not a direct comparison but i had zero luck when using the 2 step on my procharger setup. I went back to slipping the clutch around 5800-6200rpm and the car 60fts in the 1.38-1.44 range.
What suspension mods do you have?
What tire pressure are you running?
Did you watch other cars run that night?
Was track prep decent and other cars had no issues getting down the track?
What suspension mods do you have?
What tire pressure are you running?
Did you watch other cars run that night?
Was track prep decent and other cars had no issues getting down the track?
Suspension mods are just coilovers and a BMR adjustable panhard bar. I usually run the tires anywhere between 12-16psi. I didn't really get to watch anyone else with slicks get to run since I was always in line to run or back at the pits adjusting tire pressure. Maybe I'll just try slipping the clutch. It is super violent when I dump the clutch, maybe with better suspension mods I can put that power down. Thank you for your input.
What brand/spring rate in the coil overs?
Is your ride height very low?
No lower control arm relocation brackets?
Adjustable shocks and struts?
Welded axle tubes?
Upper control arm/pinion angle correct?
I learned the hard way when it comes to making a stick car hook....and i'm still learning.
Is your ride height very low?
No lower control arm relocation brackets?
Adjustable shocks and struts?
Welded axle tubes?
Upper control arm/pinion angle correct?
I learned the hard way when it comes to making a stick car hook....and i'm still learning.
BC racing coilovers, 7k front and 5k rears
Car is only about 1/2'' lower than stock
No lower control arm relocation brackets
No welded axle tubes
Honestly not too sure about the arm/pinion angle or how to even check that.
I appreciate all your input, what would you personally recommend as a next suspension mod? I was planning on buying lower control arm relocation brackets next, but I'll take any suggestions.
Thanks again
For drag racing with a manual you want the spherical rod ends to prevent any deflection in the bushings. They make the suspension louder and transmit gear whine into the car, so be ready for increased NVH.
I think your biggest issue at the moment is the coilovers. Spring rate and having adjustable struts and shocks is key for weight transfer.
Get the lower control arm relocation brackets, adjustable lowers, and upper control arm. Schedule an appointment with a local shop to have the axle tubes welded, lower control arm relocation brackets welded, and pinion angle set. An anti roll bar would help out tremendously also
I think your biggest issue at the moment is the coilovers. Spring rate and having adjustable struts and shocks is key for weight transfer.
Get the lower control arm relocation brackets, adjustable lowers, and upper control arm. Schedule an appointment with a local shop to have the axle tubes welded, lower control arm relocation brackets welded, and pinion angle set. An anti roll bar would help out tremendously also
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Well just got done ordering upper and lower control arms, relocation brackets, and a set of Viking rear adjustable shocks. Hopefully this help lower those 60ft times! Thanks for all your help, I'll report back with results once everything is installed.
when i had my manual, i'd have the wotbox set at about 5200rpm, and dump the clutch. usually would equal to 1.5 60' had a couple 1.4's. went 9.91@144 up here in colorado stock motor.
The rear control arms and brackets should help. I’m guessing right now yours are going up from the body to the axle instead of down, which doesn’t plant the tires at all during a lunch. You mentioned it was violent during higher rpm launches, are you talking about wheel hop? If so, an adjustable upper control arm will cure that (along with the lower control arms helping). Are you on the stock driveshaft currently?
It suffers some real bad wheel hop. I'm hoping all these parts will put an end to that. Nothing left to do but install them and play around at the track with the settings. No, I have a driveshaft shop aluminum one piece.
The upper control arm is the main reason for wheel hop. Once you get that on and get the lower control arm angle in a better direction, I think you’ll be golden.
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