1989 Mustang LX 5.0 5spd.
Using a Haynes repair manual.
Figured I'd pull some codes since I'm having some issues what almost feels like the engine is breaking up or studdering at high rpms. Along with a hard start condition when its warm outside. Ended up not pulling any codes. The CEL just stays on with KOEO and never flashes.
I used http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html write up and it didnt really get me anywhere.
I looked online and it seemed like a fairly easy thing to do. I go out to the garage and proceed to fudge things up haha. looked for the gray connector and didnt see anything. I instantly disconnect the underhood lamp connector and jump it to the test connecter because "the online how-to probably ment brown connector when they said gray." Went back inside the house and then read the WARNING- Do no jump brown connector to Signal Return part of the write up. Whoops, hahaha. So now I cant find the gray connector.
Checked in my wiring diagram and it shows it should be a T/R wire going to a Gray connector. The only T/R wire I see is inside the Test Connector and not leading to a stand along gray connector.
I see the T/LG, BK/W, T and T/R all inside the Test Connector. Notice there is no Y/BK wire which my wiring diagram shows being the EEC Test Connector #2. The T/R being in what my wiring diagram says should be an empty slot. Jumped the T/R to the BK/W(Signal Return on the Test Connector) and the CEL just stays on and doesn't flash. I used the volt meter method and it just shows like 11.75v constent.
The car still starts and runs great(maybe better then before!) but now the CEL is on hahaha. Guessing that probably has something to do with me jumping 12v's to the Signal Return wire. Where do I even start?
Using a Haynes repair manual.
Figured I'd pull some codes since I'm having some issues what almost feels like the engine is breaking up or studdering at high rpms. Along with a hard start condition when its warm outside. Ended up not pulling any codes. The CEL just stays on with KOEO and never flashes.
I used http://sbftech.com/index.php/topic,2471.0.html write up and it didnt really get me anywhere.
I looked online and it seemed like a fairly easy thing to do. I go out to the garage and proceed to fudge things up haha. looked for the gray connector and didnt see anything. I instantly disconnect the underhood lamp connector and jump it to the test connecter because "the online how-to probably ment brown connector when they said gray." Went back inside the house and then read the WARNING- Do no jump brown connector to Signal Return part of the write up. Whoops, hahaha. So now I cant find the gray connector.
Checked in my wiring diagram and it shows it should be a T/R wire going to a Gray connector. The only T/R wire I see is inside the Test Connector and not leading to a stand along gray connector.
I see the T/LG, BK/W, T and T/R all inside the Test Connector. Notice there is no Y/BK wire which my wiring diagram shows being the EEC Test Connector #2. The T/R being in what my wiring diagram says should be an empty slot. Jumped the T/R to the BK/W(Signal Return on the Test Connector) and the CEL just stays on and doesn't flash. I used the volt meter method and it just shows like 11.75v constent.
The car still starts and runs great(maybe better then before!) but now the CEL is on hahaha. Guessing that probably has something to do with me jumping 12v's to the Signal Return wire. Where do I even start?
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