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Killer chiller
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<blockquote data-quote="keith89" data-source="post: 16226382" data-attributes="member: 53797"><p>IAT2's should drop at WOT regardless of what setup you run. I believe in the j2fab intercooler mod but find their claims of 20* to 50* drop at wot a bit disingenuous. A 20ish degree drop at wot is normal with the stock setup since you clear out the hot stagnant engine bay air at wot. They should really show the difference in IAT2 drop at wot before and after the mod. I have no doubt that their mod works better but they need to work on the marketing and data presentation.</p><p></p><p>That said, I have had a killer chiller for nearly 10 years now. I had a gen 1 core that cracked after a year because it got too cold. It was replaced with a gen 2 core that has been going strong ever since. I have a 5gallon trunk tank with 3/4" insulated lines so it doesn't drip water. The trunk tank gets condensation since it gets down to 40*F(it takes a little longer to get down to that temp due to system capacity). I removed the oem intercooler hard lines since they are tiny and absorb engine bay heat. </p><p></p><p>The final restrictions were my front mount heat exchanger and the oem intercooler inlet ports. I had 3/4" barbs welded to my heat exchanger and installed the cobra engineering intercooler adapter(j2fab mod wasn't available back then). The cobra engineering intercooler adapter helps with potential boost leak past the o-rings(which I experienced) and has larger ports into the intercooler(not as large as j2fab but defintely larger than stock at 5/8" vs 1/2"). Each step I have taken has helped noticably.</p><p></p><p>To summarize, in my experience the killer chiller, trunk mounted tank and j2fab mod would be the best setup. The killer chiller can keep the fluid cold, trunk mounted tank increases cold fluid capacity and the j2fab mod increases flow through the entire system which helps with heat transfer. The thing people need to remember is the killer chiller can be made drip free if you take the time to properly insulate everything and it needs to be running for 5-10 min depending on your coolant tank capacity to get the temps super low(which people normally don't do when drag racing). That said, I used it for open track which was great because i wasn't at WOT all the time where the ac compressor turns off.</p><p></p><p>If i were to do it again, I would probably stick with the cobra engineering intercooler adapter because it is cheaper and eliminates the boost leak potential with the oem style tube and o-ring setup. Also, less downtime with the cobra engineering adapter as I wouldn't need to have my intercooler machined. That said, the j2fab is definitely a better performer due to the flow capacity.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keith89, post: 16226382, member: 53797"] IAT2's should drop at WOT regardless of what setup you run. I believe in the j2fab intercooler mod but find their claims of 20* to 50* drop at wot a bit disingenuous. A 20ish degree drop at wot is normal with the stock setup since you clear out the hot stagnant engine bay air at wot. They should really show the difference in IAT2 drop at wot before and after the mod. I have no doubt that their mod works better but they need to work on the marketing and data presentation. That said, I have had a killer chiller for nearly 10 years now. I had a gen 1 core that cracked after a year because it got too cold. It was replaced with a gen 2 core that has been going strong ever since. I have a 5gallon trunk tank with 3/4" insulated lines so it doesn't drip water. The trunk tank gets condensation since it gets down to 40*F(it takes a little longer to get down to that temp due to system capacity). I removed the oem intercooler hard lines since they are tiny and absorb engine bay heat. The final restrictions were my front mount heat exchanger and the oem intercooler inlet ports. I had 3/4" barbs welded to my heat exchanger and installed the cobra engineering intercooler adapter(j2fab mod wasn't available back then). The cobra engineering intercooler adapter helps with potential boost leak past the o-rings(which I experienced) and has larger ports into the intercooler(not as large as j2fab but defintely larger than stock at 5/8" vs 1/2"). Each step I have taken has helped noticably. To summarize, in my experience the killer chiller, trunk mounted tank and j2fab mod would be the best setup. The killer chiller can keep the fluid cold, trunk mounted tank increases cold fluid capacity and the j2fab mod increases flow through the entire system which helps with heat transfer. The thing people need to remember is the killer chiller can be made drip free if you take the time to properly insulate everything and it needs to be running for 5-10 min depending on your coolant tank capacity to get the temps super low(which people normally don't do when drag racing). That said, I used it for open track which was great because i wasn't at WOT all the time where the ac compressor turns off. If i were to do it again, I would probably stick with the cobra engineering intercooler adapter because it is cheaper and eliminates the boost leak potential with the oem style tube and o-ring setup. Also, less downtime with the cobra engineering adapter as I wouldn't need to have my intercooler machined. That said, the j2fab is definitely a better performer due to the flow capacity. [/QUOTE]
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