Killer Chiller + Dual Pass H/E

DREAMCOMETRUE

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Hi,
I would like to know if someone is running the K/C and kept there bigger dual pass HE? I understand that it is better to have a stocker but are we still seeing nice improvement even with the bigger one?
thanks
 

Tifosi2003GT

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My KC kit came in today & I'm running a dual pass & stock I/C tank.. I'm curious as well how much I'm screwing myself..
 
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1BIGMOFO

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not to jack the thread but what exactly does the killer chiller do? just keeps the s/c coolant cooler all the time?

can someone please explain / elaborate? whats it cost? how hard is the install?

Thanks and sorry again..
 

Satyr

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Hi,
I would like to know if someone is running the K/C and kept there bigger dual pass HE? I understand that it is better to have a stocker but are we still seeing nice improvement even with the bigger one?
thanks

Probably isn't affecting it too much. The problem is that the coolant is actually cooler than ambient temperature; thus, by running the fluid through the radiator (heat exchanger) for a longer amount of time, you give it more time to warm up to ambient temperature. Either way, you're not going to have nearly the heat that you would without the KC.

not to jack the thread but what exactly does the killer chiller do? just keeps the s/c coolant cooler all the time?

can someone please explain / elaborate? whats it cost? how hard is the install?

Thanks and sorry again..

You can search for this...don't be helpless.
In short, it uses the air conditioning system to cool the blower coolant.
 

2001blkR

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Some guys block off the h/e from getting outside air into it. I'm just wondering if your able to do away with the h/e totally when running a kc or icey Rez from true forged.
 
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djtyau

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I had a dual pass HE with my KC and it was not good at keeping the water temps down (around the 60s or more). I then removed the HE and my KC worked better keeping the water temps in the 40s consistently.
 

HEMIHUNTER

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I had a dual pass HE with my KC and it was not good at keeping the water temps down (around the 60s or more). I then removed the HE and my KC worked better keeping the water temps in the 40s consistently.

So you're running no HE w/the killer chiller?
 

03snakeminated

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not to jack the thread but what exactly does the killer chiller do? just keeps the s/c coolant cooler all the time?

can someone please explain / elaborate? whats it cost? how hard is the install?

Thanks and sorry again..

i'm doing the install on mine as i'm typing (just took a little break) and the hardest or should i say, time consuming is doing the opening on the bumper foam support, i'm almost done..:rockon: there is a group buy (about to end) for $500
 

cobra=trouble

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i'm doing the install on mine as i'm typing (just took a little break) and the hardest or should i say, time consuming is doing the opening on the bumper foam support, i'm almost done..:rockon: There is a group buy (about to end) for $500
did you get my pm on the group buy?
 

Maching-U

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why cant you route it to go through the h/e first then through the k/c then to the i/c??

That's exactly what I would do. I would route the coolant flow starting from the reservoir --> pump --> I/C --> H/E --> K/C then back to reservoir.
This way the H/E will remove most of the heat coming from the I/C then the coolant will actually get cooled by K/C. This way it will increase the efficiency of the K/C.
And not to mention that with K/C only without H/E. You need to run your AC 24/7 when you're driving the car in hot or cold weather otherwise it would be like you have no I/C.
If your AC stops working for any reason, say hello to high IAT temps!
The H/E could serve as a back up when AC is not running and when the ambient air is 60* or less they work pretty well and you can give your AC a break.
 

Tifosi2003GT

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That's exactly what I would do. I would route the coolant flow starting from the reservoir --> pump --> I/C --> H/E --> K/C then back to reservoir.
This way the H/E will remove most of the heat coming from the I/C then the coolant will actually get cooled by K/C. This way it will increase the efficiency of the K/C.
And not to mention that with K/C only without H/E. You need to run your AC 24/7 when you're driving the car in hot or cold weather otherwise it would be like you have no I/C.
If your AC stops working for any reason, say hello to high IAT temps!
The H/E could serve as a back up when AC is not running and when the ambient air is 60* or less they work pretty well and you can give your AC a break.

thats a great idea...
 

DarkMach1

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+1, that's what the instructions says..

So by going thru the H/E first and then the KC there's no need to install a H/E bypass and the coolant temp wouldn't rise as it would by going first thru the KC and then thru the H/E, correct? Im also in SFLA and Im looking into this as a solution to heat soak.
 

stangaholic280

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So by going thru the H/E first and then the KC there's no need to install a H/E bypass and the coolant temp wouldn't rise as it would by going first thru the KC and then thru the H/E, correct? Im also in SFLA and Im looking into this as a solution to heat soak.

Yes, this makes perfect sense. There is no reason at all to go from the K/C back to the ambient temperatures of the H/E. That defeats the purpose. The K/C should be the last step before it goes back to the reservoir and is used by the intercooler. This way it is at the coolest temperature possible.
 

Tifosi2003GT

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[nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OLmZUoEvRA"]YouTube- Killer Chiller 2003 Cobra[/nomedia]
 

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