just got my motor back

2000SuperStang

Project SuperStang
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Gettysburg, PA
Just got my new motor back. It's bored .20 over, new pistons, rods, crank, gaskets, everything... I have a few questions though. I'm trying to reassemble everything but I forget where some things go. Can someone please post pics of the top of the motor and from both sides. Trying to get an idea of where the wiring harnesses run.

Also, what oil should I run in the newly built motor? Synthetic or regular? I was thinking Mobil 1 5w-30. I just didnt want to use the wrong kind. Also, is there a "break-in" period that I have to take it easy on this thing?

Thanks!!!:banana:

Here's a preview:

Built Block:
cobra.jpg


Assembly:
cobra2.jpg


Side:
cobra5.jpg


Top:
cobra6.jpg
 

01greycobra

Built and Blown!
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regular oil. change at 500 miles and again at 1000. take it easy (up to ~4500) rpms for the first 500 miles then let her rip. some people suggest different methods of break in however. when you reach 4000 miles you can run synthetic again. (my break in methods came from mmr)
 

Mr Patience

Canadian Eh!
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regular oil. change at 500 miles and again at 1000. take it easy (up to ~4500) rpms for the first 500 miles then let her rip. some people suggest different methods of break in however. when you reach 4000 miles you can run synthetic again. (my break in methods came from mmr)

I'd complete a change before 500. The first should be within the first hour of break in. Remember oil is cheap. Then you could start the method above. Just my 2 cents.
 

olgreydog7

Jaded
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I'd complete a change before 500. The first should be within the first hour of break in. Remember oil is cheap. Then you could start the method above. Just my 2 cents.

I agree. Like it's been said only dyno oil to begin with. Don't keep the rpm constant either, let it run through the band, just don't rip on it. It affects the way the cylinders, pistons, and rings come together and seal up up. It's hard not to let it rip, but you gotta hold back.
 

Quadcammer

4cams aren't better then1
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I agree. Like it's been said only dyno oil to begin with. Don't keep the rpm constant either, let it run through the band, just don't rip on it. It affects the way the cylinders, pistons, and rings come together and seal up up. It's hard not to let it rip, but you gotta hold back.


completely incorrect.

www.mototuneusa.com

go to the bottom. its called break in secrets.

If you don't load the motor (i.e. wot) you won't seal the rings as well.
 

E. Green Cobra

Bounced in the 1st!
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They website is completely just another opinion on the internet. Do you have any more sources?
I believe Naz, broke his n/a BB in that way. Quad likely did as well.

FWIW
I doubt most "racers" drop their new motors in their DD's and do an easy 2000 mile break in before throwing it back into the race car...:shrug:
 

Quadcammer

4cams aren't better then1
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They website is completely just another opinion on the internet. Do you have any more sources?

The guy has some pretty compelling evidence.

If something is going to break on an engine, its going to do it while sissying it or going WOT
 

olgreydog7

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completely incorrect.

www.mototuneusa.com

go to the bottom. its called break in secrets.

If you don't load the motor (i.e. wot) you won't seal the rings as well.

Quad Quad Quad, always ready to call someone out. I think you missunderstood what I meant when I said don't rip on it. I meant don't go out and drop the clutch at 6,000 and drive like an idiot. Yes it needs to be loaded, that's what I was talking about when I said let it run through the rpm band. We are in agreement here, maybe I just wasn't clear enough. My point was don't do the old don't go over 50 until 500 miles advise.
 

Quadcammer

4cams aren't better then1
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it sort of falls into place when you hook stuff up.

The injectors are obvious, so is the egr and the frps.

Im confused as to where you are struggling.
 

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