JDM Built 1200+HP rated 5.8L Trinity Shortblocks back in stock!!!

[biminiLX]

Hmmm, short block or 2650 tvs...

Gotta save...

Well, you have great upgrades and a failure is much more expensive than buying a complete new unit with the ability to sell or keep an undamaged original. In just a few years you won't be able to find a new 5.8 block easily.
Plus, unlikely you'll be adding a 2650 and keeping it under the power level that really requires a built engine.
With your current mods, if you race the car, your current engine is on borrowed time.
Hard number to swallow but the quality is there.
-J

 

[biminiLX]

Your car is a testament to the reasons why we designed and built these shortblocks, Thank you for adding to this thread!

We are shifting most of our Cobra Jet's above 7,700 and a max RPM of 8000+ going through the traps! We have the more Cobra Jet's running NHRA events using our engines, running the same rods as advertised here and we are consistently the fastest and quickest at the track! No one can say the same, as you mentioned we race our product on a weekly basis and have never had a connecting rod failure. Otherwise we would be promoting different parts!

Thank you!

JimIII

Anytime man, you're welcome. I always like to support quality shops and site sponsors.
Also appreciate the shift point info, my car is getting final tuning now and will be ready to rip this fall.
I've only had it to 6500rpm and it didn't seem to be done!
-J

 

[paluka21]

Hmmm, short block or 2650 tvs...

Gotta save...

New Shortblock, then sell your stock shortblock in the meantime, and use it to offset the cost on the new TVS.
If I keep my '14 and not trade it for whatever Ford comes out with next, this will most likely be the direction I go.

 

[Catmonkey]

I'm going to speculate that half of the cost of that short block is what it would take to purchase at new bare 5.8 aluminum block at jobber prices. I wouldn't be to quick to get rid of the OEM shortblock either. May come in handy down the road.

 

[Wingrider]

What would the drama be to use this as the base for a 2011 5.4 ? I assume most of the 5.4 stock long parts will pass over before opening pandora's cam and spring box....

[edit- current motor has 10k on it and 90% of it track time @ Sonoma and Laguna Seca]

 

[Catmonkey]

What would the drama be to use this as the base for a 2011 5.4 ? I assume most of the 5.4 stock long parts will pass over before opening pandora's cam and spring box....

[edit- current motor has 10k on it and 90% of it track time @ Sonoma and Laguna Seca]

Pretty much plug and play. I've been running a 5.8 in my 2012 for 4 years now. Valve springs are the same. If you get that far into it, there are better cam choices, but the better choices require upgraded springs.

 

[biminiLX]

Pretty much plug and play. I've been running a 5.8 in my 2012 for 4 years now. Valve springs are the same. If you get that far into it, there are better cam choices, but the better choices require upgraded springs.

True. I have new take off unused '13-14 GT500 cams and springs. No retainers. Running JDM SS cams and springs. My heads were new replacements not reman from Ford. The '13-14 runs Ford GT came and upgraded springs compared to early GT500.
-J

 

[RBB]

What would the drama be to use this as the base for a 2011 5.4 ? I assume most of the 5.4 stock long parts will pass over before opening pandora's cam and spring box....

[edit- current motor has 10k on it and 90% of it track time @ Sonoma and Laguna Seca]

Not much drama. I just bought one yesterday for my 2011. You'll lose the extra coolant passages for the exhaust valves from the 13-14 if you reuse your heads, but not a big deal.

Other than that, you'll probably want to get the larger oil pan from the 13 and as Catmonkey said, its plug and play from there. Give Jim a call and he can answer any questions you have. Or just ask Catmonkey, that dude always has an answer as well.

 

[Catmonkey]

The '13-14 runs Ford GT came and upgraded springs compared to early GT500.
-J

Valve springs, both intake and exhaust, are the same part numbers for 2007-2014. Only difference were the valves and the small coolant passage between the exhaust valves.

 

[Wingrider]

All great feedback so far folks thanks. I was going to call JDM about a pan and see if the 13-14, Moroso, or Shelby pan would be better for road course motors. Then I'd transfer that. Does this 5.8 short block come with the newer/Ford Racing oil pump?

 

[Catmonkey]

Does this 5.8 short block come with the newer/Ford Racing oil pump?

I don't think it would make any difference once they upgrade the gears to billet pieces. I believe the housings are all the same. If billet oil pump gears fit in all GT500 oil pumps, I have to think the "high volume" feature was a different set of gears in the 13-14. The Ford Racing oil pump does not have billet gears, so using it would be going backwards. If you installed billet gears in that housing, it would be like any other oil pump used on the GT500.

 

[Wingrider]

I don't think it would make any difference once they upgrade the gears to billet pieces. I believe the housings are all the same. If billet oil pump gears fit in all GT500 oil pumps, I have to think the "high volume" feature was a different set of gears in the 13-14. The Ford Racing oil pump does not have billet gears, so using it would be going backwards. If you installed billet gears in that housing, it would be like any other oil pump used on the GT500.

I wondered if that was the case. Bummer you have to tear pretty much the front of the motor apart to get to those gears tho. Thx.

 

[my13Elenor]

Do you give credit for a good core?


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[RBB]

Do you give credit for a good core?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'd imagine JDM buys enough of these blocks to get a pretty good deal on brand new ones. You'd probably be way better off selling it here on the forum or Ebay. You shouldn't have much of a problem getting rid of a healthy 5.8 short block.

 

[JimIII@jdm]

All great feedback so far folks thanks. I was going to call JDM about a pan and see if the 13-14, Moroso, or Shelby pan would be better for road course motors. Then I'd transfer that. Does this 5.8 short block come with the newer/Ford Racing oil pump?

You can use a stock pan, Moroso, or 13-14 GT500 pan with out issue. The Oil pump we install on this block is a new 13-14 housing and we actually take it one step further and O ring it so it seals to the block better. Also we use TSS billet gears which we install using a special jig we have made to ensure they fit perfectly in the housing.

 

[JimIII@jdm]

Do you give credit for a good core?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The only tough part about the core is making sure the bores are true and can be honed with in our .001-.0015" tolerance spec. The PTWA bores on these blocks are only about .006-.007" thick. So there is not much room when it comes to using an old block or rebuilding your own. If the block is in good condition Yes we can do it, if it requires any more than what we can hone it then it would require sleeves to use it.

These blocks aren't cheap but like RBB mentioned we buy in quantity direct from the source and that helps us bring the price down to the public. These blocks retail from Ford for over $7,000 brand new!! That is just insane.

 

[biminiLX]

Bumping this for the holiday weekend but also wanted to make the answer public:
Jim what oils do you recommend in these engines?
I have factory 5w50 Motorcraft in it from the tuner, changed after dyno tuning, now wanting to change at 500 miles post build.
Thanks.
-J

 

[JimIII@jdm]

Bumping this for the holiday weekend but also wanted to make the answer public:
Jim what oils do you recommend in these engines?
I have factory 5w50 Motorcraft in it from the tuner, changed after dyno tuning, now wanting to change at 500 miles post build.
Thanks.
-J

We use Valvoline VR1 10w-30 for break in (first 200-300 miles) then switch to 5w50 Motocraft. A good oil for racing and high power engines is Driven FR50, we use that in our Cobra Jet's. Amsoil or Mobile 1 are great too. I do not recommend Royal Purple it is too "slick". As with anything proper oil change maintenance is most important. So I do recommend changing the oil every 3,000 miles or if its a lightly driven car that won't get to the 3,000 mile mark that often every 4-6 months.

 

[biminiLX]

Thanks Jim, I'll look into the FR50.
With the E85 I plan to change regularly.
-J

 

[KENS96M6]

Your car is a testament to the reasons why we designed and built these shortblocks, Thank you for adding to this thread!

We are shifting most of our Cobra Jet's above 7,700 and a max RPM of 8000+ going through the traps! We have the more Cobra Jet's running NHRA events using our engines, running the same rods as advertised here and we are consistently the fastest and quickest at the track! No one can say the same, as you mentioned we race our product on a weekly basis and have never had a connecting rod failure. Otherwise we would be promoting different parts!

Thank you!

JimIII

Interesting. I was led to believe that the cobra jet crankshaft was unhappy (flexed) above 7250-7500rpms. Do you guys do anything additional to the cranks in your shortblocks? Thanks for your input.