i've put it off long enough...

crash549

kill whitey
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I have had a rattle in my clutch for a while now and everyone has said its the tob. Within the past two weeks, it has gotten louder and now it rattles constantly. I guess im just wanting to know, are there any tips I should know before fixing it and how hard is it to change out? Also, what tob should I buy? Like always I appreciate all the help svtp. :beer:
 

Wynn

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Get a ford TOB. Its not tough to do. Check and make sure the slide that the TOB rides on is not gouged... if so get a new one and check the "how to" for a write up.
 

epracmetcon

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Do yourself a favor and pull the pressure plate off and take a peak at the clutch while you're in there.

I've made the mistake of not doing that while I have had the trans out and could have saved myself a lot of time and money..
 

crash549

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Thanks. My clutch probably only has 12,000 miles on it. I don't think that is alot but the tob has been going out for a while.
 

Quin

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It's not hard at all. Only place you're going to run into trouble is the stupid third start bolt. I recommend leaving that bastard out. lol. Shouldn't take more than an hour and a half if you stay motivated. I used a Centerforce TOB, worked fine for the 12k or so I drove it until I sold the car. Definitely check your TOB sleeve out too. I drove the car pretty far with a completely toasted TOB and it ate mine to pieces. I put some axle grease on the slide and tob when I put it all back together.
 
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epracmetcon

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Thanks. My clutch probably only has 12,000 miles on it. I don't think that is alot but the tob has been going out for a while.


That's what I said too..had the trans out, put a new one in thinking the clutch I put in 5000 miles ago was ok. 2 weeks later it exploded and broke my starter and bellhousing. It's worth the 20 extra minutes to check it when you have it apart.
 

DVJ38

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I had my tranny out to be rebuilt. My tob would occasionally make some nosie before this, so I wanted to change it. I ended up replacing the throw out bearing with an FRPP unit (very nice), the clutch fork, the clutch fork pivot ball, and pilot bearing while I was in there. I replaced the pressure plate bolts of course too. I lubed the sleeve the tob rides on and lubed up the pivot ball also. Replacing these items gave me a change to check out my clutch disk and flywheel/pressure plate too. My disk had lots of material left on it, but my flywheel and pressure plate each had a hot spot. I figured since it was smooth on engagement I would just run it anyways. I also got a chance to find out for sure that I had an 11" clutch setup and also an iron flywheel.

If you just replaced all that crap when you did the clutch job, you would probably be fine just replacing the tob. Might be a good idea to take the pressure plate off to check everything out then make sure you replace the bolts also.
 

crash549

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Well I had the whole trans rebuilt when I bought it. The previous owner put a short shifter handle on the stock shifter and broke the shifter fork (dumbass). The flywheel was resurfaced and the clutch kit was installed. I have a shop that said the would replace the tob for $350. I might just let them deal with it...
 

crash549

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The shop said it wasn't my tob. They said I have a cracked bellhousing. How could that happen?
 

SnkBit

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It could have happened when the transmission was last removed and installed maybe. Theres not alot of room to work under there, so alot of times people use the bell housing bolts to pull the transmission into place to meet up with the block. Other than that, maybe one of the mounts are loose? :shrug:
 

crash549

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But I had alot of pedal rattle and it felt sloppy. I don't see how a cracked bellhousing could do that.
 

Guy Fawkes

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Go down and take a look for yourself if you dont trust em I say. I always do.
 

crash549

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Nah, they are good guys. I got the bellhousing, tob, pivot ball, and new trans fluid for $440. I don't think that's a bad deal at all and it shifts like a dream now. No complaints here!
 

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