Is this a good price for this car??
- Thread starter Mr Incredible
- Start date
since it looks spotless, I'd say it's about right if he still has all the FI stuff. but turbo on a 347 would be a timebomb
However, you can find them cheaper. I paid 7k for a 93 h/c/i coupe that is SPOTLESSS
However, you can find them cheaper. I paid 7k for a 93 h/c/i coupe that is SPOTLESSS
Last edited:
xXGadfly09Xx
Banned
um thats a high comp ratio for a turbo
also, it doesnt say what block it is.
Stock block Hell no
Aftermarket (dart, world, boss) HELL YES
also, it doesnt say what block it is.
Stock block Hell no
Aftermarket (dart, world, boss) HELL YES
Seems like a bit much to me, but I despise the thought of buying a modified car, which clean stock foxes don't seem to exist... so maybe. I'd make sure it's pretty much perfect, and still try to bring him down a grand or two by saying that the turbo kit is just a kit... you'd need to install it, tune it, add fuel, etc. Sell if the turbo kit and see if you can make some money back.
seems high to me
9.7:1 is NOT a high comp ratio for boost. The Evo has that iirc, and I believe my 2g is 9.5:1 for example.
11.2:1 is high, thats the Coyote 5.0's.
Even then, a lot of guys are running higher comp builds, especially with e85. You dont have to run as much boost to get power, and you get great throttle response and low-mid torque.
If the motor is built with the correct parts and manufacturer for that comp ratio and boost level, and its tuned properly its great to have a higher comp ratio than the older adage of lower comp due to lack of tuning options, aftermarket knowledge and fuel availability. Its amazing what weve learned in just a decade in terms of car setups.
xXGadfly09Xx
Banned
are you seriously comparing a pushrod motor from the 1960's to a motor made in 2011?
the DOHC and the OHV respond differently to boost not to mention the VVT
He nailed it.
You could run a compression ratio that high with a turbo by using very careful tuning and excellent fuel. But if it is a stock block it will split in half at the lifter galley.
A good aftermarket block will prevent that problem.
So, if it is a Man-of war or something equally good, go for it. But only if the seller can show you the paperwork to prove it's that race block.
Engine configuration and valvetrain type matter little if the parts are correct. If the car was made to run on E85 or 110 with forged or billet rotating assembly, 9.7:1 is more than fine for boost.
You are correct about the stock block, but it also doesn't mention anything about how much boost the turbo kit can/will be throwing at the engine.
How does the cam orientation change how the engine will respond to a higher CR? :shrug: Most newer builds meant for boost are running higher CR for the exact reasons Thomas stated. Look at the 13 GT500 they changed it from 8.4 to 9 to 1.
Spot on. Lol at the 8.5 builds and 20 psi. High comp plus boost FTW
Seems a little high since im not sure on the rest of the mods it would be hard to fully decide but I dont think its worth it without knowing more details.
I'll have to ask him about the block. I was thinking of asking if he wanted to trade for my 99 Wrangler.
I'd say it's a $7500-8k car. i'ts nice but it's not THAT nice.
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