Is there any way to eliminate the coolant crossover to thermostat housing hose?

[stang8762]

Can you eliminate the hose that runs from the Coolant crossover down to the thermostat housing . When i installed my turbo i had to run a flex radiator hose down to the thermostat housing but its pretty tight in there and its a mess and sometimes leaks. Is there any way to eliminate that hose?

Im assuming i cant just remove the hose and cap off both ends?


Can i run my system like a GT system and ?

-eliminate the thermostat housing
-run a gt lower hose to the stock oil cooler
-Put a inline 170-180 thermostat on the upper radiator hose
- weld/ or plug up the coolant crossover outlet where i removed the lower to upper hose .


My current setup

 

[2000 gt]

Pretty engine bay good choice in powder coat. Not sure if u can just run a thermostat setup like your saying. But ther is a crossover delete u can buy. I think its posted somewhere in the terminator section

 

[po-po 5.0]

It's MMR that sells the delete.

 

[stang8762]

Yeah i didn't want to buy that delete kit if i didn't have to .. I just wanted to keep it simple by getting rid of the factory thermostat housing and coolant to thermostat housing bypass hose and move the thermostat to the upper hose.

I like Modularspeeds 98 setup

 

[RICH123Nick]

mmr coolant crossover

 

[01rowlandcobra]

Did this work I'm interested in doing it myself

 

[SlowSVT]

Not something I would do. That tube allows the coolant to circulate before the thermostat opens and ensure the engine heats uniformly. Without it the coolant will be stagnant creating hot spots plus it won't open the thermostat as quickly because there is no circulation behind the thermostat to heat it.

 

[RPM4DAZ]

The way I understand it. The stock cooling system is a bypass system to help reduce hot spots and increase system heat up for emissions and such. A quick warming engine also has less internal wear. The bypass system requires the bypass tube to trigger the thermostat properly. You just get a GT500 thermostat housing and hoses. Cut you outlet and connect the hoses to the housing. And, run a single hose to the radiator and get rid of the bypass. Then run a simple hose to the block inlet. As a side note. On my FR500C intake setup, I ran a GT500 type piece with a small 1" bypass from the rear outlets of the head to a water to oil cooler. Quick heat up, consistent oil temps and continual flow of water at back of heads. I also used the FRPP water inlet ( at the block ) and a larger outlet on the radiator outlet. The larger outlet to block has less flow volume ( pressure ) drop and really helps on high winding road racing applications. It really helps to reduce cavitation on water pumps as opposed to a non-bypassing system...

 

[shurur]

Last two posters have it right. This bypass back to the T-stat is an important sampling/summing point in the control system.

I think the GT system block may have an internal bypass within the block??
So T-stat is on the block.

RPM4DAZ: I always wondered about there being cavitation and changing the lower outlet hose size to encourage more draw from the radiator when the T-stat opens..interesting.

 

[snakeraper11b]

The way I understand it. The stock cooling system is a bypass system to help reduce hot spots and increase system heat up for emissions and such. A quick warming engine also has less internal wear. The bypass system requires the bypass tube to trigger the thermostat properly. You just get a GT500 thermostat housing and hoses. Cut you outlet and connect the hoses to the housing. And, run a single hose to the radiator and get rid of the bypass. Then run a simple hose to the block inlet. As a side note. On my FR500C intake setup, I ran a GT500 type piece with a small 1" bypass from the rear outlets of the head to a water to oil cooler. Quick heat up, consistent oil temps and continual flow of water at back of heads. I also used the FRPP water inlet ( at the block ) and a larger outlet on the radiator outlet. The larger outlet to block has less flow volume ( pressure ) drop and really helps on high winding road racing applications. It really helps to reduce cavitation on water pumps as opposed to a non-bypassing system...

Do you have pics of this set up? I'm a visual person.

 

[shurur]

So bypass path from front of heads to t-stat housing gone (not present on GT500 t-stat housing) and only running through radiator.?

Then back of heads have some flow to a separate extended oil cooler radiator.?

So open loop (t-stat open) runs though radiator draws most coolant through radiator and our radiator bottom through T-stat and into pump/block.?
And closed loop most goes from back of heads to oil cooler and back to pump/block.?


1. Heater core still just runs along the Valley as usual?
2. Have you got drilled holes in T-stat?
3. What is the expansion tank connection back into the system?

what I'm describing, seems like a lot of heat will be in the heads due to little or no flow though the heads in closed loop...I must have something wrong.

I'm into a diagram too..or pics too now

 

[SlowSVT]

The way I understand it. The stock cooling system is a bypass system to help reduce hot spots and increase system heat up for emissions and such. A quick warming engine also has less internal wear. The bypass system requires the bypass tube to trigger the thermostat properly. You just get a GT500 thermostat housing and hoses. Cut you outlet and connect the hoses to the housing. And, run a single hose to the radiator and get rid of the bypass. Then run a simple hose to the block inlet. As a side note. On my FR500C intake setup, I ran a GT500 type piece with a small 1" bypass from the rear outlets of the head to a water to oil cooler. Quick heat up, consistent oil temps and continual flow of water at back of heads. I also used the FRPP water inlet ( at the block ) and a larger outlet on the radiator outlet. The larger outlet to block has less flow volume ( pressure ) drop and really helps on high winding road racing applications. It really helps to reduce cavitation on water pumps as opposed to a non-bypassing system...

If I recall correctly the GT500 thermostat housing is big bucks.

There is nothing wrong with the bypass. It gets shut closed when the thermostat opens so all the coolant goes thru the rad. I would leave that intact. Big cast iron engine blocks take a long time to warm up which is not good.

...............what I don't like is the heater core return line that runs thru the pseudo lifter valley in the block which put that heat right back into the engine. I plugged mine and run the output of the heater core directly to the cross over outlet pipe on the front of the engine. The reason Ford did this was to get heat into the cabin ASAP

 

[RPM4DAZ]

I don't have any pics now and the car is apart. Then again I am a computer boob anyhow. I began a big bore project and became unemployed. Maybe done by end of year if I am lucky. I first researched different Mustang and other vehicle coolant systems and took pics from different car shows and such. I have the FRPP water inlet adapter and -12 hose for an external filter and cooler. The pressed in freeze plugs in my "GT" heads at the back are now a permanent and constant outlet from the back of the heads. I have specific machined fittings to a -12 outlet at each port ( similar to what MMR is doing now ) and then to a "T" going into a single 1" tube running down into the valley under the runners of the intake and forward. The bypass is a constant flow through a cooler I built out of a Setrab 610 cooler. That turned out to be a liitle to fragile. My next one will probably use a core from CRB ( I think that is the name ) coolers, the warm water flows through the cooler and keeps the oil nice and consistent as far as temp goes. It them taps into the lower hose and back into the engine. Simple easy and constant flow from the rear of the heads. The outlets from the front of the heads flow into 2 hoses and goes into the thermostat housing for a GT500 and into the radiator. I relocated my degass tank over to the passenger side to help give room for the front throttlebody inlet and the new inlet tube from the front mounted intercooler. I think I used a Crown Vic/Marauder tank if memory serves me right. I don't remember what I did with the connection for it and I can't find any pics of it. I will have to look when I uncover the car sometime. The heater tube is still there to have a functioning system when needed. The water only flows through the heater system when the valve is open, generally not constantly flowing. The GT500 housing sits in front of the passenger side head in the factory location mine is rigged up a little different because of the location of my Vortech. There is a lot of stuff at the front of my engine and it is a bear to work on it. The alternator is literally hidden and the first approach at plumbing it and such was a hodge podge of stuff to get it working. It will all be done in more of an OEM fit and finish when reassembled... The FRPP coolant adapter has a 2" hose bib on it. Ford learned about flow issues on the original system and changed in on the "GT" supercar. The water pump inlet for it is directly in the front of the engine, not on the side like all the other modular. I believe the GT500 is the same. Look up the water pumps for them... That is why the water inlet adapter was developed for the aftermarket.

 

[RPM4DAZ]

As a secondary note. I originally started to build a bypass from the front just like our system off of the cylinder head outlet crossover. But, with the GT500 thermostat housing ( it is a "Y" fitting per say ) I was afraid that water would flow constantly from the driver side head only and not from the other. Thus, causing some inconsistent temperatures in the block and heads. So, I just pulled the bypass from the rear and gave the back of the heads and block some constant flow. Kind of like the kits that everybody wants to buy. It is tricky getting everything in there in a clean organized fashion.

 

[SlowSVT]

Sounds like you put a lot of thought into your system. The GT500 thermostat is a nice piece with large ports and the routing plays "nice" with the 4.6. Having coolant squirting out both ends of the heads will keep the rear exhaust valves happier. It important that the flow is even between both cylinder banks as you alluded to. Once you start working on your car again you should revisit your cooling system.

From your description is sounds like you are still employing a water-to-oil cooler. If that’s the case I would consider going to a air-to-oil cooler and get the anti-freeze out of the business of have the burden of cooling the oil as well (that's robbing Peter to pay Paul).

Here is a pic of my cross over for my Terminator I modified

You can see the 5/8" feed bungs from the rear cylinder and who everything smoothly merges together as opposed to the "bump & turn" flow of the factory plumbing.

Here is my home made thermostat housing which was out of a Ford Contour. It totally eliminates the ziz-zag flow path of the stock thermostat housing. All the bottom plumbing is 2"

The hose leading to the FRP coolant inlet is now 2" mandrel bent aluminum tube (the rubber hose shown here would collapse)

This is what the Contour T-stat looked like before I butchered it

I've reduced every restriction to flow I could find throughout the cooling circuit and plan on under driving the water pump to help reduce cavitation at high rpm.

 

[raym5_0]

SlowSVT...very nice work, to bad you were not on the SVT team designing this beast..:beer:

 

[71catruck]

I thought it always best to keep the oil to water heat exchanger but also run an coolant to air cooler with a thermist. If the oil gets to cold it won't protect properly because it has an optimal operating temp. The coolant will heat up faster and transfer that heat to the oil decreasing the amour of time for oil warm up. My system is all stock right now though just my thoughts. I like everything else you have said though.

 

[SlowSVT]

I thought it always best to keep the oil to water heat exchanger but also run an coolant to air cooler with a thermist. If the oil gets to cold it won't protect properly because it has an optimal operating temp. The coolant will heat up faster and transfer that heat to the oil decreasing the amour of time for oil warm up. My system is all stock right now though just my thoughts. I like everything else you have said though.

that's why you run one of these

Remote Oil Thermostats - -10AN Mocal Remote Oil Thermostat

 

[shurur]

that's why you run one of these

Remote Oil Thermostats - -10AN Mocal Remote Oil Thermostat

Damn Navy guys..they're always reengineering shit;-)


Q: What Fan and radiator are you using?
I'm looking at a good AL radiator and dual contour fan someday for the DD.

Q: DCC pwm fan controller??

 

[SlowSVT]

Damn Navy guys..they're always reengineering shit;-)


Q: What Fan and radiator are you using?
I'm looking at a good AL radiator and dual contour fan someday for the DD.

Q: DCC pwm fan controller??

I'm a flyboy but not military

I have an all aluminum single pass Fluidyne rad. I would avoid a multi-pass because which are nothing more than 2 or more smaller radiators in series which will make a little more work for the pump but won't make the engine run cooler.

The factory fan is actually a pretty nice set-up. I like the fact that it's not shrouded which will impede airflow thru the rad at speed. Aircraft Spruce sells an "h" channel rubber seal strip p/n: 05-01300 (buy 10' of it) that seals the gap between the fan and the rad which will pull more air thru the radiator. You will need to trim it but it fits perfectly and looks factory

U CHANNEL from Aircraft Spruce

I don't have a fan controller nor am I planning on getting one but that doesn't mean it's not a useful item. Fans are really only needed when in stop an go traffic which is something I avoid like the plague in this car so I don't loose too much sleep on this topic.