IRS Upgrade List

[SlowSVT]

Just remember studs for the caps and cover and you're good. If I go back in I'll be upgrading to them. For now I feel it's still a significant upgrade over OE.

One thing to keep in mind when using studs on the diff cover is they will make removal more "difficult" :cuss: if it is sealed with RTV or case sealer. There is no place to put a plastic hammer to knock it backwards along the studs to break the seal (with bolts you can whack-it on the side and break it in sheer). I welded 4 think bungs around the perimeter of my diff just for this purpose. The diff cover with the bearing cap backing screws can be used to help push it away from the diff but I would only do that on a diff with aftermarket steel bearing caps but I would still want somewhere to rap it with a hammer.

This is one area where studs make a lot of sense. It boggles the mind when you consider the guys who designed these covers never considered this :nonono:

 

[Jefe]

Just waiting on the subframe bushings. Need to pick up the tie rod puller, diff fluid, fuel filter and other odds and ends. Gonna drop it Friday night so we can let the LPW cover sit for 24hrs

 

[b_dike]

Just waiting on the subframe bushings. Need to pick up the tie rod puller, diff fluid, fuel filter and other odds and ends. Gonna drop it Friday night so we can let the LPW cover sit for 24hrs

Let us know how it goes... I have a lpw cover waiting to go in later this summer. Very curious to see if any grinding or special tricks are needed.

 

[Jefe]

Had the IRS out in 3 hours and had to call it quits so we can start early. Got stuck on the stock sway bar end links. They have never been off and the threads are so rough. Don't even have 1 nut off yet. Thinking about getting them off as far as I can and then just cutting through the threads with a wheel. So close to the half shaft though.

I was hoping to get the diff out and new cover sealed so it could dry through tomorrows work. Probably gonna have to install it empty and fill it Sunday morning with a pump. 24hrs a must with the Grey RTV in order to fill it?

Driver side front subframe mount got caught up. After raising and lowering a couple times I manhandled the LCA and pulled it out. Other than that everything went pretty smoothly

 

[SlowSVT]

The rear sway bar end links are a "muthah!" :cuss: Put a cut-off wheel to it and save yourself some grief

 

[shurur]

yes..dump those oem swaybar links.
PB blaster, an open ended wrench wedged or visegrips on the back nut, then a ratchet wrench with pipe handle extension should get it started.

The shortest adjustment of the MM (FTBR probably as well) adjustable links is equal to the fixed length of the oem links.

 

[gabe1530]

The rear sway bar end links are a "muthah!" :cuss: Put a cut-off wheel to it and save yourself some grief

agree, they are a PITA.
i originally didnt order the FTBR sway bar end links but after taking those out i never wanted to deal with taking them off again.

 

[krazyazian]

Dammit Jeff if I would have seen this sooner I would have offered my help or you could've just asked...lol. I did mine on my own and it was somewhat of a bear but I did it over the weekend so my diff could seal up properly.

 

[Jefe]

I forgot you did yours not that long ago. Wish I would have helped you so I could have saved a few hours. This is not a 1 person job on the ground, props! How in the world did you get the front mounts in without going back and forth several times? Every time I got 1 side in the other would drop out or rub. Plus my drivers side subframe was partially in the way.

I am still not done but very close. The IRS is in with the upper bolts and some long extensions through the front mounts. I spread the front boxes as best I could too with some new all thread. Once they were in the boxes, I couldn't get the front bushing sleeves back far enough to get the bolts through. If I pried on it I could get it back but the second I let off it would go forward. I lifted it with the rolling jack and pounded on it with a 5lb sledge and they moved right back to the same spot. They are about 1/4" too far forward on both sides. I noticed the upper holes were lined up so I tossed the bolts in. I think Ill put jack stands under the front arms to keep them in place and take the upper bolts out. Then drop the back end and that should get them lined up enough. Other than that I'm out of ideas.

I also need to figure out my spacer orientation on the toe bars since Im 2" lower than stock. Plus the sway bar end links on the lift.

Had to grind the L off the LPW cover and a little off the bushing mount to get the clearance. 2 quarts of Royal Purple 75w140 in it after 31 hours of drying time for the Ultra Grey RTV. Ill double check the level once it back in since it didnt pour out when filling on the ground. It did register on the allen I put in there so its close to full.

One thing I completely forgot to buy were the cross axis joints. They were in pretty good shape still and moved freely but was bummed that it went back together with old parts after replacing literally everything.

Lots of hiccups here and there which cost us several hours but Im not defeated yet! Amazing how freely the arms move now. Cant wait to take it for a spin.

 

[Jefe]

Got it in in 15 mins last night. Pry bar and old man strength. Stepping away from a job really clears the mind.

I should have fully read the instructions on all pieces before starting. We connected the bars to the inside mounts and are now struggling to get the spherical head aligned to fit on the spindle stud. Now I just need to remove the inner joint. I didnt notice it was a problem until I was ready to put the wheel on and noticed my hubs were facing inward. End links and its back on the road!

 

[Tractionless1]

One thing to keep in mind when using studs on the diff cover is they will make removal more "difficult" :cuss: if it is sealed with RTV or case sealer. There is no place to put a plastic hammer to knock it backwards along the studs to break the seal (with bolts you can whack-it on the side and break it in sheer). I welded 4 think bungs around the perimeter of my diff just for this purpose. The diff cover with the bearing cap backing screws can be used to help push it away from the diff but I would only do that on a diff with aftermarket steel bearing caps but I would still want somewhere to rap it with a hammer.

This is one area where studs make a lot of sense. It boggles the mind when you consider the guys who designed these covers never considered this :nonono:

Only reason for it ever to come off would be a failure anyway. I figure I've overbuilt the guts enough never to have to remove the cover.

 

[Jefe]

All done! Alignment this afternoon. First impression, well ... my jaw dropped to the floor. It feels like the tires are now suction cups for the street. Even at 1mph over bumps it feels solid. Drove on rough roads all the way home and its incredible how solid but smooth it feels. I had a little bit of gear noise stock in 5th/6th gear and you can just slightly hear it a little more but barely. Keep in mind I just have a seat delete board with some carpet "sealing" the trunk off. The B8 shocks are a massive improvement. I had rubbing issues with a passenger and my 335s but I don't think Ill have any issues with that now.

I got on it in 2nd gear and my exhaust joint came loose but Im pretty sure I spun the tires which has never happened in 2nd gear with these new BFG Rival Tires. Ill try again when I have that joint sealed up and its aligned.

All said and done I have about 21 hours into it. Stupid mistakes that made me uninstall and re-install a couple items or just figuring out the order of in which things went back together. Spacing this project out over several days and nights made me forget a few things. I bet it could knock it down to 11-13 hours. Putting the last bolt in I said I dont think I would ever do this job again. Within 1 minute of test driving it I was sure I would tell everyone I knew to do these mods no matter how much blood and cursing it took! It is that much better than the stock crappy rubber.


HUGE thanks to members Taz, jrgoffin and ac427cobra for the help throughout the whole process. Bruce your videos are so well done! Wouldn't have been possible without the guidance from these guys.

http://www.tazcobra.com/
http://www.terminator-cobra.com/introduction.htm
http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/

I didnt take many pics, mainly because I was covered in dirt and grease for most of it. Also didnt have the time to degrease everything I wanted to.

 

[Jefe]

One thing Im still puzzled on. I measured the stock toe bars with the suspension drooped and it was 22.3" on both sides. I adjusted the MM bars to that length and got them mounted and my hubs were still facing inward but not as bad as the other day. I had 7-8 threads showing on the outer mount. Obviously couldn't drive it home like that so I brought them back to 3-4 threads showing and it looked straight and drives fine. I have all the clearance I need from the knuckle and eyelets are lined up fairly straight. Were the stock bars just maxed out? 4k miles on these Rival tires with no obvious signs of a bad alignment

I can still go in or out on the MM bars so the alignment shop should be able to get it perfect.

Going to use these alignment specs from jrgoffin

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/chassis & steering.htm#Alignment_&_bump-steer

 

[SlowSVT]

Only reason for it ever to come off would be a failure anyway. I figure I've overbuilt the guts enough never to have to remove the cover.

Keith

in the event you do have to remove a studded 8.8 diff cover can you post the vid on youtube? :-D

Russ

 

[gabe1530]

congrats on the finish of the install. i just finished mine as well and like you said it was a PITA. getting things aligned was a nightmare but once you figure it out it becomes simple. i also agree with you on never installing another set till you end up driving it and then recommend it to everyone! lol.
DSC_0444 by gabe1530, on Flickr

 

[po-po 5.0]

I measured the stock toe bars with the suspension drooped and it was 22.3" on both sides.

Is that how you're supposed to do it? Your old bars were set with the full weight of the car on them. at full droop, they're going to be in a totally different place with regard to the arms.

 

[Jefe]

So my tire pressure was at 40 on all 4 corners. No wonder I spun in 2nd gear. Alignment done ... before on the right, after on the left. For eyeballing the hubs I did a pretty damn good job getting them lined up.

Tires might wear a little more having it like this but it sure does drive well. Front camber is bit off, should this be an issue? -1.6/7 instead of -.7. Same as when I drove it in which is strange.

Found 1 extra bolt after the install. Its an inch long with an 8mm head and washer. Looks like an air filter housing to body bolt. Very clean so not sure where it came from. Said 8 or 8.8 on the head

congrats on the finish of the install. i just finished mine as well and like you said it was a PITA. getting things aligned was a nightmare but once you figure it out it becomes simple. i also agree with you on never installing another set till you end up driving it and then recommend it to everyone! lol.

How do you like the FTBR kit? Mine feels so much more solid, Id say exactly what I wanted but Ive never ridden in an FTBR car. Didnt want to upgrade the toe bars?

Is that how you're supposed to do it? Your old bars were set with the full weight of the car on them. at full droop, they're going to be in a totally different place with regard to the arms.

That could be but I dont see how it would change drooped or not. The bars don't change length when you raise and lower the car.

 

[Jefe]

Dirty but heres how it looks from the side

 

[gabe1530]

Looks great!
I actually haven't driven it yet as im waiting on my engine to be finished. I figured now was the time to do the bushings. I was going to wait till its drivable to do the toe bars so I could drive it to get aligned after the install.
However, I did drive my friends cobra with the full kit and it was night and day difference. The rear feels planted and stable. If i could describe the feeling in one word it would be.. confidence.

 

[Jefe]

Exactly. I was doubting the need but Im so much lower than stock and everythying is 10 years old I said f it, lets do it all!

There's a turn near my place that has a sloped embankment and I normally take it at 55-60. Above 60 it feels like Im right on the edge of losing the rear end. I took it at 62 last night and it felt like I was doing 45. Not gonna push it much farther but I couldn't believe how much more stable it felt through it