IRS subframe bushing install

[Bite Me]

I would HIGHLY suggest that you check your front mount bolts for the proper size first. I have an 01 cobra and they put the wrong 12mm bolts in mine. I have MAJOR wheel hop. When I took out the bushing I could see how bad it wore on the crush sleeve. It banged around so much that it actually made the sleeve oblong rather than circular like it should be.

First off, get the removal tool. Its cheap, and it saves a LOT of time.

We started this project about 9pm, finished at about 330am. Althought the job wasnt necessarily big or hard, it was just time consuming.

You will DEFINITELY need a dremel tool with a good grinder attachment. If you have an extension its better because the nipples in the back of the crush tube are hard to get at because of the gas tank.

Also, get you a 2" wire brush attachment for a drill. It cleans the rubber out of the shell really quick and easy.

The bushings go in the shell with ease so dont grind your shells to much. If they dont go easy, take a little more down. Just get rid of the rubber and they should slide in pretty easy.

All in all a pretty easy job. You need at least 2 people to make it go smoother in some parts.

This is a definite must do. I havent dug in to the IRS bushings yet, that is a winter project.

 

[Solo500]

I have a 99 Cobra and swapped out every piece of rubber in the rear but didn't get the 14mm bolts. I thought only the terminators were affected with this problem? How hard would it be just to swap out the bolts, just in case?

P.S. I don't really have any wheelhop at all.

 

[Bite Me]

Oh super easy man. I didnt have to right bolts, so I ordered them. All you will have to do is get it up on jack stands and make sure you support the front IRS subframe so it doesnt fall when you take the bolt out. You may have to manipulate it a bit to get it to line up, but should be a quick job.

Once I get them in and swap it out I will post my experience up.

Not quite sure if the 99 had a problem. Yeah, I was under the impression it was only terminators, but I definitely had the wrong bolts from the factory.

 

[Bite Me]

Ok poped the new bolts in. Driver side went it easily. Went to the passenger and the subframe was crooked. Pulled back to the rear of the car by about an 1/8th. Just enough to not allow the new correct size bolt to slide through the hole.

What I did was buy a good 2" ratchet strap. Wrap one end around the subframe new the jack pads and hook the other side up to the brace on the K right where the bolt connects for extra strength. About 3 cranks past tight and it pulled it straight. Bolt went right in.

Jack your car up high or you will need a specific combo of extensions to get the torque wrench in there. I tried a few different ways to find the best combo. Turns out my 2" extension, 1/2" to 3/8" adapter, and a standard size (not deep) 18mm socket allowed the wrench to clear the subframe arm inbetween the exhaust and subframe.

All in all very easy swap. I was just unlucky that my subframe was crooked from having the wrong bolts in it.

Definitely need to check your bolts. My MM 14mm bolts have a 21mm sized nut. Check yours. If your 21mm socket fits on the nut then you have 14mm bolts. If an 18mm socket fits on it, you have the 12mm bolt in there and you need to swap.