IRS Rebuild Has Begun - 1st Question

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

In the ford service manual it says to slide in as many as you can fit on the ring gear side, and then fill the other side with as many as you can, and then get the backlash correct. Then after you get it right, add .006 inch of shim to each side for the final setup.

Ahhh, thanks. That sounds much easier. Very doable.

And, note to self: Wear gloves when pushing thin .010 shims in with fingers.
Trying to press shim in with my thumb. Slit me to the bone. Like a razor blade. Will be reminded of that for the next couple weeks.

Any ideas on the torque specs for the pinion nut using spacer instead of crush washer?

And, how tight should pinion nut be when setting pinion depth and backlash?

Thanks again.

 

[bubblehead93]

what I recall is 125 ft-lbs for the pinion nut torque... your adjusting for bearing preload with the solid spacers... so the running torque depends on if the bearing is new or old... 9-14 in-lb for old, 16-29 in-lb new, picked up a cheap balance beam style, in-lb torque wrench to measure running torque on the pinion... i had an old pinion bearing which I clearanced into a slip fit too make it easy to set pinion depth... ratech and a few others make some inexpensive pinion setting tools if you only do this once in a while... just need to tighten the pinion nut enough to take any slack out of the assembly... good luck...

 

[SVTORANGE]

:beer:

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Get that axle nut from ford. $10

Thank you for changing your profile pic. I almost said something. It was grossing me out. Sorry...lol

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

what I recall is 125 ft-lbs for the pinion nut torque... your adjusting for bearing preload with the solid spacers... so the running torque depends on if the bearing is new or old... 9-14 in-lb for old, 16-29 in-lb new, picked up a cheap balance beam style, in-lb torque wrench to measure running torque on the pinion... i had an old pinion bearing which I clearanced into a slip fit too make it easy to set pinion depth... ratech and a few others make some inexpensive pinion setting tools if you only do this once in a while... just need to tighten the pinion nut enough to take any slack out of the assembly... good luck...

Ok, a bit confused now.

During final assembly. Using spacer, not crush washer. Torque new pinion nut to 125 ft/lbs, then tighten slightly further until I reach the 16-29 in/lbs rotational or running torque? And this is set without the axles? Just pinion and carrier?

I gotta have that wrong. :uh oh:...lol

When setting the backlash. Do the bearing caps have to be completely torqued to spec every time? I might have to pull diff out a couple times before I get it right. Break the torque wrench out every time? Or just the final time when backlash is set?

 

[bubblehead93]

for setting pinion depth, i hogged out an old pinion bearing (the one closest to the pinion gear, so if i have to remove it to adjust the number of shims to set pinion depth, just enough so it is a slip vice a press fit)... then just take the slack out of the pinion assembly to measure pinion depth... for pinion bearing preload... after I have set pinion depth, i replace the "hogged" out bearing with the new one and shims (measure the old crush sleeve and subtract a few thousandths)... check that pinion depth has not changed... assemble, torque the pinion nut to 125 ft-lbs and use either a dial or beam style torque wrench to measure the running torque depending on new or used bearing... add/remove shims a few thousandths at a time until you get the running torque right... hitting the pinion nut with a hard rubber mallet and turning it a bit before measuring to set the bearings is a good idea as well... then I install the carrier and shim it for backlash and then a few more to set the preload on the carrier bearings... never have used a case spreader, probably makes it alot easier though... hope that helps, hope it reads the way I mean to do it... good luck...

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

for setting pinion depth, i hogged out an old pinion bearing... never have used a case spreader, probably makes it alot easier though. hope that helps, hope it reads the way I mean to do it. good luck...

Yes, yes, and yes.

I did same thing. Wollered out a cheap-o lower pinion bearing. Also wollered out old upper bearing. Worked like a charm.

Started out tonight doing a lot of head scratching. But once I got started and performed my first pinion depth check, it started to make sense.

Currently at work. Will post up a pic of my wear pattern tomorrow. See what you guys think. Along with some other info I'm gonna try. Will get into that when I have more time.

Anywho, pinion depth is set and backlash is sitting at .007. I realize that is on the short side. Had carrier in and out probably every bit of 10 times. I was a pro by the end...lol

Got buddy coming over tomorrow and loaning me a dial type Snap-On torque wrench. Looking forward to getting this assembled for the final time.

Thanks again.

 

[SVTORANGE]

Awesome that your getting it done:coolman:

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Awesome that your getting it done:coolman:

Thanks Orange.

Will post up a couple pics real quick before I go sleep a beautiful day away. 3rd shift sucks...

Ok, backlash is .007. Look like it will work? Now is the time to speak up. Really hate to get it together and have it whine or clunk cause it wasn't spot on. Especially, when you don't really know what "spot on" is...

Next picture is what prompted me to make new crush sleeve bushings. Think it has to do with Ford using 12mm bolts in the front subframe when it should of been a 14mm? I received two different sized sleeves with my Prothane bushing kit.. Gold colored sleeve has an ID of approx .484. Silver sleeve on on left mics at .559. Enough to let my factory bolt wiggle around in there bad.

After reading some posts on the "Cobra Clunk", I decided to make my own out of 304 stainless steel. Could of used aluminum, brass, bronze, steel, or UHMW.

After thinking about it and planning on getting a couple 14mm bolts/nuts, I thought, if Prothane would of just put 4 of the smaller ID bushings in, I wouldn't be needing any new, bigger bolts. Then remembered, "Hey, I'm a CNC machinist. Duh." Set up on the barfeeder, an OD turning tool and a carbide drill, I could crank out 60 of them an hour.

My sleeves measure +/-.0005 of the ones that came in kit. Did I need to hold such a tight tolerance? Probably not. Just can't help it.

Also, I remember seeing a video somewhere where a guy was demonstrating the flex/movement that's present in the diff housing while bolted in the subframe. He was explaining how the diff should "NEVER" move around on this type of suspension. It was about the same time I seen some website that offers high dollar aluminum front/rear diff bushings.

Won't be ANY movement with aluminum ones. Should I bang a set of them out tonight at work? :burnout:

However, reading a link that someone posted recently in my thread where the guy was talking about the rough/harsh ride when going overboard on solid bushings. This I do not want. But, will locking down the diff case add to a rough/noisy ride?

Cna you tell I;m tired? I'm ramblin...lol Goodnight all. Or as I like to call all of you, Daywalkers...:sleeping:

 

[SVTORANGE]

Yeah love being a Day walker no doubt.

Your doing quite well for the times you have to work on it.

 

[Jefe]

However, reading a link that someone posted recently in my thread where the guy was talking about the rough/harsh ride when going overboard on solid bushings. This I do not want. But, will locking down the diff case add to a rough/noisy ride?

With the Prothane diff supports, I noticed the increase immediately in all gears. But with it came better traction, better ride quality and a feeling of control over the rear end that I didn't have before. Within 5 feet of test driving it, I was blown away how planted the rear end felt. My mind blocked out the new noise within 100 miles of driving.

Mine was noticeable in 5th/6th gear with the stock rubber but that soaks up a lot of the NVH. Solidly mounting the diff will be the loudest

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

With the Prothane diff supports, I noticed the increase immediately in all gears. But with it came better traction, better ride quality and a feeling of control over the rear end that I didn't have before. Within 5 feet of test driving it, I was blown away how planted the rear end felt. My mind blocked out the new noise within 100 miles of driving.

Mine was noticeable in 5th/6th gear with the stock rubber but that soaks up a lot of the NVH. Solidly mounting the diff will be the loudest

Thanks Jefe.

Only thing on car I want loud is the exhaust.

And I know this will be a total rookie question, but, what is NVH? Seen that abbreviation thrown around a few times. Sure it has something to do with road noise. Just don't know what it stands for.

Tonight is my Friday. Actually starts Thursday night. Will be 12 days straight of 10 hour days. Except for the weekend where we only worked 8's. Not working tomorrow night or Saturday.

Point being. I walked out in garage just now. Looked at my HUGE mess, got a huge whiff of rotten gear oil, turned around and went right back inside the house. As bad as I want this back together, I am taking the night off. Buddy can't get over here with the in/lb torque wrench until tomorrow. So, good enough reason for me.

Lastly, a cheap looking diff cover gasket came with bearing kit. Also went and bought a tube of Permatex - Gear Oil Gasket Maker (black). Use gasket? Both? Just RTV?

Thanks again fellers...

 

[Jefe]

Noise, Vibration, and Harshness.

I didn't use a gasket, just RTV and no leaks. Make sure you put some plumbers tape on the drain plug. You bought an FRPP or LPW cover right?

 

[SVTORANGE]

:beer:

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Noise, Vibration, and Harshness.

I didn't use a gasket, just RTV and no leaks. Make sure you put some plumbers tape on the drain plug. You bought an FRPP or LPW cover right?

No, didn't buy aftermarket cover. My GT will be handed down to my son in distant future. It's not boosted and can't see it ever having enough power to justify a high dollar cover. Not to mention, my wife put a major halt to anymore spending. I'm about a thousand into it so far. She not happy that this "swap", that wasn't supposed to cost anything, had costed this much so far. And I have to live with her...lol

 

[Jefe]

Ya I was thinking about that after I posted. Probably wont be an issue

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Update. Installing cover, one bolt wouldn't even tighten. Could feel another couple ready to strip. Can I catch a break here? Had to drill/tap to next size. Well, went 3/8-16. Did all of them. And one would think that would be easy, but no. Being a blind hole, you need a spiral tap. They don't sell them at your local home hardware.

Lucky I had one at that size. What a freaking pain.

Done, back together and ready to finally start reassembling.

Yay...lol

 

[SVTORANGE]

Sweet this is awesome you were able to do this on your own

 

[SILVER_SVT_GT]

Ok, Update.

I worked like a freaking ANIMAL!!! By myself. All freaking night. My hands look like I stuck them in a blender...:cryying: Knees popping and killing me...:cryying: My back? We don't even want to go there....lol...:cryying: My hair (from lying on the ground) feels like you were petting a buffalo at the zoo...:cryying:....:cryying:...:cryying:

But you know what? I f#cking did it...:dancenana: Got done around 4am. I don't know what the break-in procedure is. Could of smart phoned it I guess. Couldn't wait. Fired it up and sounded so good to hear it run again. You know I was going for a ride....:burnout:

Taking it REAL slow. Back and forth in garage a few times. No clunk was first observation. Absolutely no sound when releasing clutch. Sweet. Going real easy on clutch obviously. The wife happened to wake up to go pee and heard me fire it up. The look on her face to see it under the car and on the ground. When the last time she seen it, the diff was on the floor, apart, with me drilling/tapping. No control arms. Nothing...

Talked her in to going for the "test" ride, so we both hopped in and, slowly, off we went. I TOTALLY pussy footed it. Like your great grandma was driving it. Mainly cause I know there is a break-in deal and I didn't know what that was. I knew at least to go real easy on it. Took it around the block, then down road to gas station. Looked under car and no dripping. Good sign. Didn't sit there that long tho. Threw in a splash of gas and grabbed a cold one (Pepsi). Then went for a short 15-20 minute cruise out in the country. I'm in the burbs. Probably never exceeding 45-50mph. Speedo WAY off. Gonna have to get that fixed, pronto...

Well, everything seemed good to go. Only thing I notice is a VERY slight gear noise when under acceleration. Goes away when coasting and downshifting. Don't know if that is due to something I did, or it's just the Richmond gears I purchased. I read a lot of reviews and many said they experienced some whine with them. Its seriously not bad tho. It passed the "stingy wife" test, so that will tell you how "not bad" it is. Just hope it don't get any worse. Kinda gives it that "Race car" sound. Or a dump truck...lol

Suspension felt AMAZING !!!! !!!! !!! HOLY FREAKING CRAP !!! !!! !!! I cant WAIT until all is broke in, double checked bolts/lugs, and I can hit some serious corners. Believe it or not. Just that little short drive was enough to know, I am going to be a very happy man. Can't comment on the pull of the new 3.73's. I didn't do any pulling. Got back to my garage, (which looks like a hurricane went through it), and parked it. After about 20 min of picking up, I grabbed the drop light and crawled underneath. Dry as a bone. All seals dry. All around cover nice and dry. Pinion seal dry. Pilot bearing seals dry. And sure hope it all stays that way too. Gonna pull tires off tomorrow and re-torque axle nuts. Hit all bolts again as a triple check.

Wow, what an ordeal that all was. I am totally blown away that I pulled all this off. And you know what? I really couldn't of done it without your guys help and speedy responses. I very much want to give a sincere thank you to all who chimed in and loaned the advise that was needed. Thank you.
But, I'm sure I will still have questions tho. So, just a heads up...

Wife don't know it yet, but I'm not done. Some stage 2 cams sure do give that old school muscle car lopey sound. They were always on the list. But for some reason, when looking at them cams, it says you need 3.73 gears minimum. Don't know why, but I have them now...Hehehe... Maybe throw a bottle of pussy juice in the trunk? 100 shot?...:rockon:Yeah baby...lol

On a side note, my cousin called me last night. Has a 2002 GT clone 6 banger he's gonna sell to me for 1k. Bullet wheels, hood, trunk, side scoops. Like a comp orange color. Having second thoughts on handing over my keys to my (very responsible I might add) son. Gonna buy this for him. A much better first car I think.

Now to go soak in a shower for an hour and hit the hay. Think it supposed to rain today. I like it when it rains during the day. Since I am always sleeping through the killer nice days and hating on it. I sleep good knowing you daywalkers are left with a crappy rainy day...hehehe Not to mention or brag, but I do own an awesome 21ft Wellcraft, cammed 5.7L Merc. Through hull exhaust. Killer stereo. Absolutely perfect in and out. It's a 65mph beast. Her name is Hurt'n. She's my baby. And I hardly ever get to take her out...

I'm ramblin again... Break-in procedure for gears/bearings. What should I do or not do? And for how many miles do I do it?

Thanks again everybody.

 

[94slowbra1]

Congrats on finishing a big undertaking. I'm going to do all my irs stuff over the winter. Enjoy the new feel of the car!