IRS low profile bolts from MM? Anyone done em?

STROKD

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Does anyone who has installed them theirselves have any tips? Does the rear end move or shift if you take them out? Where to support the rear of the car so it doesn't move when you take the bolts out?

I did a search, figured I'd just ask since I didn't see a how to.:beer:
 

RazorGTP

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Does anyone who has installed them theirselves have any tips? Does the rear end move or shift if you take them out? Where to support the rear of the car so it doesn't move when you take the bolts out?

I did a search, figured I'd just ask since I didn't see a how to.:beer:

Very simple, just did mine last week.

I did mine one side at a time because I only had one jack stand but u can do both if u want. Jack up the ass end on the jacking points and throw jack stands under. Then use a floor jack to put just enough pressure on the lower control arm so that the bolts come out with ease. You'll understand once you take off the tire. I suggest using antiseeze on the new bolts when you re-install them in case you want to remove them again in the future. The alan key heads tend to strip if theres too much torque applied.

Literally took me 5mins/side.
:beer:
 
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Jomo1994z71

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Good advice above...just make sure you support the IRS with a jack when you take to bolt out, and in...
 

SickBlackMach

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Very simple, just did mine last week.

I did mine one side at a time because I only had one jack stand but u can do both if u want. Jack up the ass end on the jacking points and throw jack stands under. Then use a floor jack to put just enough pressure on the lower control arm so that the bolts come out with ease. You'll understand once you take off the tire. I suggest using antiseeze on the new bolts when you re-install them in case you want to remove them again in the future. The alan key heads tend to strip if theres too much torque applied.

Literally took me 5mins/side.
:beer:
Bada-bing! +1, It's very easy to knock out OP.:beer:
 

STROKD

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Very simple, just did mine last week.

I did mine one side at a time because I only had one jack stand but u can do both if u want. Jack up the ass end on the jacking points and throw jack stands under. Then use a floor jack to put just enough pressure on the lower control arm so that the bolts come out with ease. You'll understand once you take off the tire. I suggest using antiseeze on the new bolts when you re-install them in case you want to remove them again in the future. The alan key heads tend to strip if theres too much torque applied.

Literally took me 5mins/side.
:beer:

Thats what I was looking for! Do you know the torque spec, or just tight as I can get em without slip? I usually like to torque suspension parts... Even the MM instructions that came with it which were fairly weakly written, said to torque per spec, but I dont have a shop manual, so I dont know what spec is.:??:
 

RazorGTP

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Thats what I was looking for! Do you know the torque spec, or just tight as I can get em without slip? I usually like to torque suspension parts... Even the MM instructions that came with it which were fairly weakly written, said to torque per spec, but I dont have a shop manual, so I dont know what spec is.:??:


I torqued them as hard as I could without stripping. The antiseeze will make them easier to remove so you don't have to worry about withdrawl. :beer:
 

2ndGearPull

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The torque spec is 76 ft lbs. But I started stripping the head on mine could not get it to 76 ft lbs but its close enough it wont back out.
 

srl135

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the head stripping issue was my concern from doing them on my 99. Although i never had any problems wth them, it always had my concerned. I need to do them on my 04. It came with the ground head stock bolts and it just seems like a problem waiting to happen..


To chime in though...install is cake.
 

mu22stang

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the head stripping issue was my concern from doing them on my 99. Although i never had any problems wth them, it always had my concerned. I need to do them on my 04. It came with the ground head stock bolts and it just seems like a problem waiting to happen..


To chime in though...install is cake.

A ground stock hex head is the better solution, no question. I uninstalled my MM low profile bolts because the head started to strip. It's just a bad design.
 

srl135

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A ground stock hex head is the better solution, no question. I uninstalled my MM low profile bolts because the head started to strip. It's just a bad design.


The reason it looks problematic is just because the edges of it are so sharp now. With the trend to constantly push wider tires, the clearance is less and less. I know that the tire wont travel in a way that compromises that tire to bolt clearance and if it does i have a LOT more issues than that rubbing/cutting that may have occured. Just puts me on edge a bit. Maybe i could take off the sharp edge a bit..just dont want to strip it out.
 

mu22stang

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The reason it looks problematic is just because the edges of it are so sharp now. With the trend to constantly push wider tires, the clearance is less and less. I know that the tire wont travel in a way that compromises that tire to bolt clearance and if it does i have a LOT more issues than that rubbing/cutting that may have occured. Just puts me on edge a bit. Maybe i could take off the sharp edge a bit..just dont want to strip it out.

I agree the sharp edges can be problematic. It is important to check the clearance between the tire and bolt with the vehicle's weight on the tires and not suspended. If you change your tire size or springs, it's good to recheck this clearance.
 

srl135

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right now im sitting with 1/4" of clearance between the two. Guess if they havent hit yet, then im alright... LOL still might swap them out at some point, but for now, the whipple pulls importance (priorities may not be straight LOL)
 

notchstang92

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I didn't like them. I like the idea of them to help with clearance, but they strip out to easily. I run the stock bolt unshaved with 3/8" wheel spacers and longer wheel studs. no rubbing or clearance issues at all. Thats with 315/35/17 BFG KD's and 17x10.5" 03 cobra wheels.
 

HomeboyNorm

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Thats what I was looking for! Do you know the torque spec, or just tight as I can get em without slip? I usually like to torque suspension parts... Even the MM instructions that came with it which were fairly weakly written, said to torque per spec, but I dont have a shop manual, so I dont know what spec is.:??:

You'll find a factory service manual for free if you are to look around some where in this Terminator talk section for a thread about it. Check out my 10 step instructions in there, and you'll get yours set up on your computer. It's nice to have. :-D

EDIT: What the heck, I found the direct link to this thread for you, and check out post #65:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/607206-03-service-manual-file-3.html

:beer:
 
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rotor_powerd

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I ground the heads on mine, switching to an allen head is stupid, IMO. Way too easy to strip, and with that button head - if you do strip it, you'll be in for a Saturday afternoon full of fun.
 

STROKD

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I understand what you guys are saying, but I have 335 Hoosiers I want back on the car, and the way it was it didnt rub persay, but pulling into steep parking lots it would catch on the bolt when the tire rotated down and it cut the sidewall pretty good on one tire... I'd like to keep that from happening again AND run a smaller spacer so the tire isn't sticking out as much... Thats the method to my madness here, not to just run the bolts cause I am bored.:lol1:

Thanks to everyone for their comments, Ill get em put in tomorrow probably.
 

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