irs bushings

[magstang1]

MM sells the tool for the uca's for $40. I haven't seen the lower tool for sale.

 

[magstang1]

I finally got everything back together and it's definately better, but it still hops.

 

[badboy]

I finally got everything back together and it's definately better, but it still hops.

My result too. Dosen't that piss you off after all the money and agony?

 

[BreBar21]

Huh? Who's tool might this be? Have I missed a thread on a home-made design?

The tool is mine. If you want to rent it out, shoot me a PM.

 

[BreBar21]

MM sells the tool for the uca's for $40. I haven't seen the lower tool for sale.

The tool they sell for the uppers is for solid axles. They will not sell the IRS tools seperately. I bought mine from a guy on here. I will rent them out to whoever wants them.

 

[Richo]

The MM tool for the upper bushings on a solid rear, works great on installing the MM IRS subframe bushings. Just get a 6 and 7 inch long 7/16th bolt to help pull the bushing into the stock sleeve. You can then use the tool to install the MM 12mm and 14mm sleeves.

 

[BreBar21]

The MM tool for the upper bushings on a solid rear, works great on installing the MM IRS subframe bushings. Just get a 6 and 7 inch long 7/16th bolt to help pull the bushing into the stock sleeve. You can then use the tool to install the MM 12mm and 14mm sleeves.

Instead of spending $40 on the tool from MM, you could rent the one in the market for $10. It works AWESOME for pressing in the subframe bushings.

 

[magstang1]

For pressing in irs bushings I used a holesaw and a c clamp. If you need to take lca bushings out USE MM'S TOOL!!! (just don't break it, sorry) The reduction in wheelhop for me was pretty dramatic. Once I started getting into the install I grew skeptical that there would be any effect. The stock bushings were rubber, but they seemed to be a pretty stiff rubber, except for the rear diff. My wheelhop before bushings was like someone lifting the car 6 inches off the ground and dropping it over and over. Now it's definately there, just not like a jackhammer. I was running f1's and it was 60 or so degrees out. That would have been wheelhop city before. H&R ss springs mm subs and nitto's are in my garage waiting to go on. Hopefully the combo will reduce it even more.

 

[black10th vert]

Sounds good. All of my stuff is installed, and is bouncing a little bit. Someone should definately start a service to fix these. We send them the crush sleeves, they fix them, and send them back. There seems to be a good bit of demand for it.

Mine still has a little bounce to it also and wheelhops worse than ever. I also used a holesaw and c clamp to change the sfb and it worked great.

 

[magstang1]

Road test: So now I have this squeeking sound coming from the drivers side low on the car. The best I can tell it is coming from forward of the rear wheel. I can't see how this would be the delrin lca bushing. It sounds like the poly subframe bushing making the noise. Anyone have this problem? How do I make the noise go away?

 

[badboy]

I have heard of this. It could be because there wasn't adequate application of that sticky lube that MM supplies with their bushings. You need to cover the outside of the bushings and the crush sleeves with the stuff.

 

[badboy]

Mine still has a little bounce to it also and wheelhops worse than ever.

Mine still hops too. I'm not sure how much good all this bushing BS has done. Seems like there's an awful lot of people going to an awful lot of trouble and expense to achieve questionable results.

 

[plan b]

Mine still has a little bounce to it also and wheelhops worse than ever.

You're LCA's are still binding. That's why I bought the MM delrin bushings after the problem with the other delrin bushings. With the MM bushings, my car rarely wheel hops anymore. When it gets colder out it will hop a little, not violent wheelhop like before.

 

[badboy]

After about 300 miles on the bushings I jacked up the car, pulled the wheels and checked everything. One thing I checked was the LCA bushings. They are working as designed. With a jack under the knuckle I could see that the crush sleeves were fixed with respect to the frame and the rotation was between the bushings and the crush sleeves. No sign of wear or other problems.

 

[magstang1]

if I grease up the subframe bushings with the prothane grease won't it just wear off in time? seems like this might be a recurring problem.

 

[black10th vert]

if I grease up the subframe bushings with the prothane grease won't it just wear off in time? seems like this might be a recurring problem.

I've only put a few hundred miles on mine since the bushings and mine were squeaking also but after I drive it for awhile they stop. When I took it out this week it didn't squeak at all. I figured the grease was working its way in and maybe it won't squeak anymore.

 

[magstang1]

Ok I was wrong. The squeek is not coming from the subframe bushings as I originally suspected. The noise is coming from the drivers rear lower control arm bushing. I used the same process to install and torque all the bushings. The crush sleeve is staying starionary and the delrin sleeve is rotating on it. The noise also seems to be getting progressively worse. Anybody else have a problem like this?

 

[badboy]

I put some grease in there when I assembled them. No squeek. If you take it out, make sure it is not too tight when you put it back in.

 

[magstang1]

I have to pull it partially apart to put the springs in so I'm probably going to pull that arm off when I do that. What kind of grease did you use and where did you get it? I remember hearing somone saying not to use a specific kind.

 

[badboy]

I just used Vaseline. (Just happened to be handy...lol...this whole project was a big jerkoff)