IRS Bolt on 17x10.5 Pics

[riplightning]

I know this has been covered many times, but I just put on 17x 10.5 replicas with Sumitomo 315/35/17. I don't have spacers or the button head bolt.

I wanted to show you these pictures to see if you think its ok with out doing the bolt or spacers.

When the suspension is fully extended the tires hits the bolt on both the drivers side and passengers side.

Here are the pictures with the car on the ground.

 

[ChicagoMike]

That's NOT OK. If you're going fast and the bolt hits the tire, you're screwed. Tires connect you to the road, and they determine whether you live or die at high speed.

 

[1CEBITN]

That is not much clearance! The way the suspension moves though, unless you fully extend it by jacking the car up or when it is on a chassis lift you will probably never have a problem.

Personally, I would put the button head bolt on there just for piece of mind, especially when the car is on the lift. I don't like the idea of the bolt rubbing the tire while on the lift. What if some tech starts manually spinning the tire while it is up there or something?

 

[mike79]

Wow I never new it was that close on 10.5's.

 

[riplightning]

1CEBITN, I will be putting the bolt on for the "piece of mind". I don't think it will be a problem. I have done some "spirited driving" since I have had the tires and wheels on and have had no problems or rubbing.

The bolt in the pictures looks closer to the rim than it really is due to the angle that I had to take the picture.

 

[Dave99GT]

where is a good source to buy a button head bolt? Does MM make one?
I have to admit I am concerned with the thought of grinding or shaving down a bolt head to make it fit, won't that weaken the bolt head making it prone to failure? Seems like a lot of people on here have shaved down their bolts to make 10.5 wheels and 315s (or wider) fit.

 

[ChicagoMike]

shaving the bolt head is probably the best option since that's the type of bolt that belongs in there. It should not effect the bolt structure. The use of button-head bolts - I have heard - are not a good idea because the structure IS different from the start and may have a possibility of breaking under max load. Correct me if I am wrong.

 

[toofast4u]

The button head bolt is "not" a good idea. I actually bought them and when I had them in my hand I said no way. The stock bolt has a shoulder and is only threaded half way. I think you are much safer grinding some of the head down instead of using the button head bolts. The other option is to buy some "hub centric" spacers. Maximum Motorsports is now offering some different sizes that are hub centric. The onlything with spacers is if you go wider then 1/4" you will need to replace your wheel studs. I have 1/4" custom made spacers on my car now.

 

[1CEBITN]

Some of the manufacturers include the wheel studs as part of the spacers so you wouldn't have to worry about it. It is a one piece deal with the studs sticking out of it...

 

[riplightning]

toofast, do you have pics of your rear wheels with the 1/4" spacers.

Did you have to roll the fender lip?

 

[toofast4u]

Originally posted by riplightning
toofast, do you have pics of your rear wheels with the 1/4" spacers.

Did you have to roll the fender lip?

I can, but I am not running 17x10.5" rims. I have the stock rims with 555R 315s. I bought the spacer because I was planning on doing 17x10.5" rims. I now run the spacers because they increase my rear track by 1/2" and make the car look better.

 

[toofast4u]

Originally posted by 1CEBITN
Some of the manufacturers include the wheel studs as part of the spacers so you wouldn't have to worry about it. It is a one piece deal with the studs sticking out of it...

Yes, but those spacers start at 1" and go up.

 

[Top_Fuel]

Originally posted by ChicagoMike
shaving the bolt head is probably the best option since that's the type of bolt that belongs in there. It should not effect the bolt structure.

I agree. There's no need to investigate alternate fasteners when a modified OEM fastener will work. Taking .25" off of the factory IRS bolt head isn't a big deal. PM me your email address and I will send you detailed pics of a modified IRS bolt so you can judge for yourself.

Now I've got some questions for you...because I'm thinking about buying 315 Sumitomos myself...

1. Is your car lowered?

2. How much clearance do you have between the inner sidewall of the rear tires and the IRS frame at normal ride height? Is it more than 1/8"?

3. How do those 315s look on 10.5" wheels? Can you post a section width measurement or maybe some other pics? They look very similar to Dunlop 315s which have a section width of 12.2" on a 10.5" wheel.

4. Any chance you could send me a close-up picture of the sidewall profile of those tires? I'd like to see what they look like on the 10.5" wheels. I want to make sure they don't look too small on the wheel.

If you've got street tire 315s on 10.5" wheels without spacers (and you aren't lowered), that is awesome! Not too many people have been able to do that. :thumbsup:

-Greg

 

[ChicagoMike]

I called OE Concepts and he said you don't need spacers with the 17x10.5's in the rear. He stated that FORD came up with the Button Head Bolt specifically for the use of wider wheels in the back. He said just go to the Ford parts dept. and get a pair....

What do you think?

 

[Top_Fuel]

Originally posted by ChicagoMike
...he said you don't need spacers with the 17x10.5's in the rear. He stated that FORD came up with the Button Head Bolt specifically for the use of wider wheels in the back.

I think he's been smoking too much wacky weed or something. :bash: :-D Especially the part about Ford developing the button head bolt :kaboom: To put it nicely...he's giving you bad information.

If you run 17 x 10.5" wheels with any of the larger 315s out there (BFG or Goodyear street tires), you'll need a spacer AND a modified bolt head. You *might* be able to run the Sumitomos or Dunlop 315s without a spacer because they aren't as wide as the other mfrs tires.

You can run Nitto drag radial 315s without a spacer...because they aren't that big of a tire (they're about an inch skinnier than normal street tire 315s are).

No matter how you slice it, you'll definitely have to deal with the bolt head. Heck...I have 285s on 10.5" wheels and the tire still hits the bolt head when the rear suspension is unloaded!

If your car is lowered, that will also give you some extra clearance and you might be able to get away without spacers (depending on how wide your 315s are).

-Greg

 

[03InThe11s]

just grind it down. the head of the bolt has no structural use. its the "body" of the bolt that holds the weight, not the head.

 

[riplightning]

Top_Fuel,

1. Car is not lowered.

2. It is more than an 1/8", it's the width of my finger which is about 1/2" at normal ride height.

3. I will post pics of the 315's and get section width tomorrow.

4. I will post side wall profile pics as well. They don't look to small on the rims. They look very similar to how the stock set up looks, just a slight bit more rounded imho.

They are street tires and the car is not lowered and no spacers, the tires do contact the bolt on both sides when the suspension is unloaded.

 

[Top_Fuel]

rip,

Thanks for the info. That is great news about how much clearance you have. I test fit a Dunlop 8000 315 on a 10.5" wheel on my Cobra last fall. Without spacers, they only cleared the IRS by 1/8 of an inch at normal ride height. Compared to my situation, you've got tons of clearance!! That's why I'm interested to know exactly how wide those Sumitomos are from sidewall to sidewall. An 1/8 of an inch can make a big difference for me. I have 285s right now and only have about 1/4" of clearance.

I'll be very interested to see the pics! :thumbsup:

-Greg

 

[riplightning]

Here are the pics:

width of tire using measuring stick

tire from the side

tire from back angle

tire from front angle

a couple others
http://67.95.30.42/mini-Bigback tires 002.jpg
http://67.95.30.42/mini-Bigback tires 004.jpg

 

[ChicagoMike]

Ok, I have the OE Concepts 17x10.5's .. and the Nitto 555r's ... so I need to grind down the bolt .. and what have others done? What spacer do I need to use?

Mike