Installing a Strange 35 spline

[Bytor]

My stock 8.8 is getting replaced. Goodbye 3.31's, hello 4.11s. Strange did a really nice job on the powder coating and its got an S-trac. I'm probably gonna get a PST CF driveshaft and while its waiting for that, it's getting a McLeod 1200HD.

It may be a week or so before I get into the shop and it may be a couple weeks to get the DS made but this is a start.

 

[spruce]

who did go through ? mind if i ask what it cost ? I'm looking for a 9" myself

 

[Bytor]

I went with Strange. The cost really depends on what you choose, which mfg and options. It could be 3500-4500, maybe more, maybe less. All depends on your preferences. Keep in mind since the center section uses a 1350 yoke, the stock CF driveshaft will not mate up. That could run up to 1500 depending on material. Then you have to get it put in.

 

[BlowerMan]

I put a 35 spline strange in my 08, easiest bolt in to date. Had shaftmasters make a new aluminum shaft for around $700. No weird vibes, or alignment issues. 3.50 ratio and a trutrack.

 

[biminiLX]

My stock 8.8 is getting replaced. Goodbye 3.31's, hello 4.11s. Strange did a really nice job on the powder coating and its got an S-trac. I'm probably gonna get a PST CF driveshaft and while its waiting for that, it's getting a McLeod 1200HD.

It may be a week or so before I get into the shop and it may be a couple weeks to get the DS made but this is a start.

View attachment 1634968

Looks great.
I also installed a Strange 9”
One of the easiest bolt-ins I’ve done.
Having a lift is essential.
I used PST for a great price on a SFI CF shaft.
-J

 

[SteveWK]

I've got a couple of questions for you 9" adopters since this is the route I will most likely be taking.

1) I have the performance pack with diff cooler. Any problems attaching those fittings to the rear housing?

2) I am almost sure I read the Cobra Jet 9" rear is slightly narrower. Did that present any problems? Will my stock wheels fit without any spacers?

3) I've got the stock 6 speed, any info on how long of a driveshaft I should order? I'd rather have the driveshaft on hand so everything can be installed at once.

4) From what I've read everything should just bolt right up including springs, shocks, my BMR relocation brackets and etc., correct?

Thanks, Steve

 

[biminiLX]

Steve, I’ll do my best:
1) good luck on the coolers, not necessary really unless road course, but I’d assume you’ll need to weld on bungs to the rear of the assembly and adapt the stock lines. Strange will not offer help here with the exception of likely being willing to weld on AN fittings at your direction and risk if it doesn’t work. I would highly recommend thinking this thru before ordering as the $100-150 they option to powdercoat is DEFINITELY worth it.
2) they likely no longer have the real CJ rear, but they’ve adapted the benefits to the stock replacement length units, which is what you want.
3) I had the car on the lift with a Magnum XL already installed, so I just measured per PST instruction and it was fine. Strange, Moser or someone like American Powertrain who does driveline conversions (usually trans) may offer the length you need. I’ll gladly look at the CF shaft length I ordered, but the nice thing is PST built and had a custom CF shaft with SFI sticker to my door in 6d. at just at or under $1000.
4) Correct, it is a RARE feat to call it a bolt in. We had the 8.8 out and 9” installed in less than 3hrs with beer drinking. So nice to beat the car at the track and not have gear whine!

I built the 8.8 three times. I’d tell you selling a good stock ‘13-14 8.8 and buying the Strange 9” will be money ahead plus the benefits if you drive hard or drag race.
Good luck.
-J

 

[Bytor]

1) I am considering this. I'll talk to the shop more about this when I get in. If not, has anyone removed all the cooling parts? Lines/pump/electrical?

 

[SteveWK]

Steve, I’ll do my best:
1) good luck on the coolers, not necessary really unless road course, but I’d assume you’ll need to weld on bungs to the rear of the assembly and adapt the stock lines. Strange will not offer help here with the exception of likely being willing to weld on AN fittings at your direction and risk if it doesn’t work. I would highly recommend thinking this thru before ordering as the $100-150 they option to powdercoat is DEFINITELY worth it.
2) they likely no longer have the real CJ rear, but they’ve adapted the benefits to the stock replacement length units, which is what you want.
3) I had the car on the lift with a Magnum XL already installed, so I just measured per PST instruction and it was fine. Strange, Moser or someone like American Powertrain who does driveline conversions (usually trans) may offer the length you need. I’ll gladly look at the CF shaft length I ordered, but the nice thing is PST built and had a custom CF shaft with SFI sticker to my door in 6d. at just at or under $1000.
4) Correct, it is a RARE feat to call it a bolt in. We had the 8.8 out and 9” installed in less than 3hrs with beer drinking. So nice to beat the car at the track and not have gear whine!

I built the 8.8 three times. I’d tell you selling a good stock ‘13-14 8.8 and buying the Strange 9” will be money ahead plus the benefits if you drive hard or drag race.
Good luck.
-J

Thanks for all the good info. No need to check the length of your driveshaft since I believe it is different from stock with the Magnum XL. As far as the cooler lines go, I stumbled across a really good local shop here in Wichita and I am sure he can do what ever is necessary to adapt them. He even featured my humble GT500 on his Facebook page, .

 

[SteveWK]

I forgot to mention I do have 3.73s in the 8.8 that whine excessively and I do have a set of new 4.10s, but based on your input and experience, it really is a waste of money in the long run to mess with the 8.8 anymore. 4.11s and a 9" is the only do it once and forget it solution out there.

 

[biminiLX]

Very cool!
Yes, I would expect some hot rodding ingenuity, but at the end of the day we’re talking lines moving fluid from the center section to the cooler.
If my car had the Track Pack coolers I’d keep them.
I’ll assume the factory lines have NPT fittings in the stock SVTTP diff cover.
If possible I’d keep everything as stock location at least to start.
Probably best to use the shops lift for this, as I mentioned it’s only a few hours job to swap.
If I can help take measurements to shorten the wait on the shaft, I can probably triangulate from the crossmember or other fixed point.
If you can wait a week (less on aluminum), Precision Shaft Technologies did great by me:
Precision Shaft Technologies
-J

 

[SteveWK]

Thanks for the offer on the measurement, but I think I will wait until the rear is installed and do it then. I don't think the shop owner will have a problem keeping the car there while the driveshaft shows up.

There is another whole mess with my current Griggs Watts Link and Torque Arm and how I am going to approach that. My first inclination is to just install the diff using the stock pan hard and 3 link and then add a 9" specific torque arm at a later point. What I don't know is if any of the welded supports for the watts link will need to be removed to install the pan hard. I need to do some more research on that before we (the shop and I) begin installing.

 

[Bytor]

Looks great.
I also installed a Strange 9”
One of the easiest bolt-ins I’ve done.
Having a lift is essential.
I used PST for a great price on a SFI CF shaft.
-J

J, did you have a 1350 yoke on the front of you Strange 9"? Talking with PST, they are saying they cannot get the proper CV joint to build that end of the driveshaft. Is there any info you can pass along to me so I can help PST make a DS? Thanks.

 

[biminiLX]

Bytor do you have a stock TR6060 transmission?
I have a Magnum XL and Strange 9”. I believe it’s a 1370 yoke on the 9” but it’s conventional stuff.
I think you mean the transmission side is a weird factory deal so they have an issue with an adapter from DSS.
Bruce @spruce just went through this deal.
-J

 

[spruce]

I figured it out ,order a 13-14 gt500 cv conversion plate from DSS (FDPL-05-V2)then PST can make the driveshaft. total was 100 cheaper from PST with buying the adaptor from DSS. You will need to buy the adapter, bolt it on the transmission output cup and then measure for driveshaft