Installed the OEM 3x capacity intercooler tank on 13-14

[dturboman]

After looking for Replacement larger intercooler tanks... I was left with the metal ones only, which I wasn't a fan of as the metal heats up very quickly and I wanted the OEM look.

So with very minor hose and bracket change I was able to install the OEM 3x capacity intercooler tank
Van sells it here
http://www.revanracing.com/products/oe-look-2007-2012-gt500-intercooler-reservoir-3x-capacity.html

Its looks and fits perfectly and helped drop my IAT2's

It was a sunny 85-90 today
I was seeing IAT's around 90-95 at a 35 mph cruise
In stop and go I was seeing IAT's around 100-115
IAT2's were around 115 at 35mph cruise
IAT2's were around 120-128 in stop and go traffic
after a 45 minute drive with a few 60-100 bursts the highest I had seen was 135ish

my fluid is green because I run 100% water with a bottle of hyper lube - Ran it from day one

if you're wonder the mods...I'm running E85 with ID1000's KB BAP, 2.4 upper, 10% lower, BPS73 TB, BPS elbow, OR Exhaust, JLT 123mm

if anyone wants more details let me know, or I'll just expand to this post when I have a moment

 

[Tob]

I'm interested in seeing the routing your bypass now takes. It looks as though you mounted the tank further to the right than normal which would help to offer more room in fitting the connection from the intake manifold area to the reservoir itself. Or did Ford do that for '13/'14? Hmm.

Here's my '09. Note how close the tanks are...

I see the two zip ties and am guessing you had to kink the bypass towards the rear of the car as well as trim a hose in a couple of locations.

 

[dturboman]

I did space it further to the right to reduce having to kink the hose, I also cut about 3" off the feed OEM hose to the intercoolr tank (that was the only hose I had to trim)- I moved The tank total about 4.5" to the right, created new mounting holes and reused the OEM bolt bracket combo.

I wire tired the bypass hose to the upper coolant hose (but not touching each other), it wasn't needed but I did this as the intercooler hose was closer to the pulley and didnt want the risk of it making contact over a bump or during any motor movement.

Overall it was very simple to make it work, the spacing to the right was really what made it possible.

I'll take some pics today of the hose routing.

 

[Tob]

Overall it was very simple to make it work, the spacing to the right was really what made it possible.

I came to that conclusion while trying to figure out the best way to make my own bypass yesterday, after purchasing some molded hoses, fittings, etc.

Looking forward to your photos.

 

[dturboman]

Looks like the same pile I started with before I jumped to the idea of moving the tank to the right. - I was looking through every pre-molded coolant hose at the auto parts store hoping to find one that might get me close.

I came to that conclusion while trying to figure out the best way to make my own bypass yesterday, after purchasing some molded hoses, fittings, etc.

Looking forward to your photos.

 

[dturboman]

Some better pictures. - I'll get one behind the tank so you can see the hose better too

 

[Tob]

Remember, since mine is a pre '13/'14 model I don't have the bypass assembly you do, nor do I have a restrictor in place (did you remove yours?). I wanted to avoid the cost ($200 just for the bypass section, and that's from Tasca) of the Ford bypass assembly and the fact that I'd be hacking it up anyway. But I am absolutely interested in seeing you make it work.

Is the new reservoir a bit crooked as well as having a new location or is that just the perspective making it look that way? Or did you plan on that to minimizing kinking?

 

[Tob]

Great pictures. I know its dark down in some of the recesses but can you also get a shot where the hose assemblies join back together after the tank? Much appreciated either way.

 

[dturboman]

I did remove the restrictor, but I can easily pop it back in back in if I want.

I very slightly angled the tank, but I could make it 100% straight if I back the hose off the inlet 1/4".

Luckily I didnt have to hack up the bypass hose, only trim the inlet feed hose. - I could put the stock tank back on at any time with no issues.

- I'll get some better hose pics today

Remember, since mine is a pre '13/'14 model I don't have the bypass assembly you do, nor do I have a restrictor in place (did you remove yours?). I wanted to avoid the cost ($200 just for the bypass section, and that's from Tasca) of the Ford bypass assembly due to cost and the fact that I'd be hacking it up anyway. But I am absolutely interested in seeing you make it work.

Is the new reservoir a bit crooked as well as having a new location or is that just the perspective making it look that way? Or did you plan on that to minimizing kinking?

 

[Tob]

Good man.

 

[blitz1029]

Have you dynoed your car with all your mods?

 

[dturboman]

Lund dyno tuned it for E85 on a Mustang dyno (I dont recall the numbers off the top of my head)... that was before my lower pulley and porting the blower inlet- I'll be on the Dynojet I've dyno all my other mods this Friday the 13th.

on 93 I made 717whp, BPS elbow, SCJ TB, OR Xpipe, 2.4 upper, JLT 123 - 18* timing 16.5-17psi

I'm currently seeing 20psi and running 22* timing on E85

Have you dynoed your car with all your mods?

 

[dturboman]

Here you go, this is the best I can I could get for now

Good man.

 

[dturboman]

I'll get some with more light and the lower section tomorrow - It was getting too dark when I took the pics.

 

[CodyK7]

I've got mine in the garage need to put it on.

 

[dturboman]

Lucky for you it will be a 5 minute bolt on.

 

[A.M.R]

After looking for Replacement larger intercooler tanks... I was left with the metal ones only, which I wasn't a fan of as the metal heats up very quickly and I wanted the OEM look.

So with very minor hose and bracket change I was able to install the OEM 3x capacity intercooler tank
Van sells it here
http://www.revanracing.com/products/oe-look-2007-2012-gt500-intercooler-reservoir-3x-capacity.html

Its looks and fits perfectly and helped drop my IAT2's

It was a sunny 85-90 today
I was seeing IAT's around 90-95 at a 35 mph cruise
In stop and go I was seeing IAT's around 100-115
IAT2's were around 115 at 35mph cruise
IAT2's were around 120-128 in stop and go traffic
after a 45 minute drive with a few 60-100 bursts the highest I had seen was 135ish

my fluid is green because I run 100% water with a bottle of hyper lube - Ran it from day one

if you're wonder the mods...I'm running E85 with ID1000's KB BAP, 2.4 upper, 10% lower, BPS73 TB, BPS elbow, OR Exhaust, JLT 123mm

if anyone wants more details let me know, or I'll just expand to this post when I have a moment

I always wanted to get this, but everyone seems to have their own theory on the negative effects of this. Basically what most people are saying, is that having more coolant circulating will take a little longer to heat up than stock which is good, but the downside is it takes MUCH longer to cool down once the car is turned off.

How were your IATs with the stock reservoir? Was there a big difference in temps?

 

[1 Alibi 2]

I also was not a fan of the metal tanks for the same " heat " reason, and I couldn't understand why Ford tee'd the degas tank off the main line.
In operation, there appeared to be little or no flow in the tank, unlike my 2011 set up.
My 14 was going to JDM for mods, so I added the 3X tank to the list.
........................ The stock intercooling hose is sitting in my garage.
The installed tank has the same flow as my 2011 set up....................( only pic I have )
.

 

[JimIII@jdm]

As Alibi mentioned we removed the T fitting connection along with the bypass and reducer. We clocked the position of the pump to feed directly into the bottom of the tank with about 3" length of hose from the pump to the tank. Then routed the tank directly to the lower manifold inlet fitting. Flows like a bastard, unlike the original design from Ford.

 

[dturboman]

I didn't go as far as removing the T... the reducer is gone and I have the tank inlet almost directly at the T instead of the 8" curved feed hose. - I can see the flow now unlike previously

As Alibi mentioned we removed the T fitting connection along with the bypass and reducer. We clocked the position of the pump to feed directly into the bottom of the tank with about 3" length of hose from the pump to the tank. Then routed the tank directly to the lower manifold inlet fitting. Flows like a bastard, unlike the original design from Ford.