Installed N2MB WOT box, not working??? HELP!!

vetteeatinsnake

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Installed to box this weekend. Before I get asked, no I did not solder the wires. I don't feel comfortable soldering wires in spaces that tight i prefer not to hack my factory harness like that. I used t tap connectors and quick splice connectors. all connections seemed good. first start up it did as it should, before firing it up i did test with the throttle on the floor, blinks, clutch to the floor, pauses then resumes blinking. fired it up, stumbled right about 2k rpms then resumed revving. set the 2 step to 3k, nothing. set it to 2400, nothing. the manual says its preset at 4k but nothing there either. I checked the yellow wire and thought maybe the t tap connector wasnt working so I replaced it with a better quick splice connector which seemed more sturdy and then went to test it and it doesnt blink when I put the gas to the floor and does nothing when I depress the clutch pedal but still fires up fine. I know the manual says the gas has to be floored for the 2 step to engage but my car is waiting on a tune after being ported and adding a lower pulley so I dont wanna floor it. anyone have any advice? I also made sure there was a sturdy connection at the black and red wires. Thanks,
Hunter
 

MTBSully

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Installed to box this weekend. Before I get asked, no I did not solder the wires. I don't feel comfortable soldering wires in spaces that tight i prefer not to hack my factory harness like that. I used t tap connectors and quick splice connectors. all connections seemed good. first start up it did as it should, before firing it up i did test with the throttle on the floor, blinks, clutch to the floor, pauses then resumes blinking. fired it up, stumbled right about 2k rpms then resumed revving. set the 2 step to 3k, nothing. set it to 2400, nothing. the manual says its preset at 4k but nothing there either. I checked the yellow wire and thought maybe the t tap connector wasnt working so I replaced it with a better quick splice connector which seemed more sturdy and then went to test it and it doesnt blink when I put the gas to the floor and does nothing when I depress the clutch pedal but still fires up fine. I know the manual says the gas has to be floored for the 2 step to engage but my car is waiting on a tune after being ported and adding a lower pulley so I dont wanna floor it. anyone have any advice? I also made sure there was a sturdy connection at the black and red wires. Thanks,
Hunter

Probably not what you want to hear, but this is clearly a wiring issue. Go back to the beginning and recheck everything
 

vetteeatinsnake

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yea thats what im thinkin. I really dont wanna solder anything. im really not wantin to hack up my factory harness. my buddy used t taps on his n2o kit and has had no issues at all which is why I decided to use them. could the 2 step not be working since im not flooring the gas? i mean obviously i have another issue since its not responding to the tests before starting the engine, but before when it was responding but the 2 step wasnt working, could it be that i wasnt flooring it?
 

vetteeatinsnake

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ok so i removed the quick splice connector and securely fastened a new t tap connector from the yellow wot box wire to the blue harness wire. now it respondes properly to the gas to the floor and clutch to the floor tests before firing the engine. tried setting the 2 step to 2400 (2 blinks) and nothing. I think it may just be that im not immediately flooring the gas which is not allowing to 2 step to work.
 

vetteeatinsnake

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alright well that makes me feel a little better. ill just wait til i get tuned and all and test it out. it just didnt make sense to me that i would need it to the floor for it to limit at 2400rpms lol. so basically i have to stab it straight to the floor as if im gonna try to rev to 7k??
 

TRQJUNKIE

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Did you do this? Black doesn't go with black...


14) Locate the C133 connector in the
passenger side rear of the engine
compartment, unscrew the 10mm
bolt, unplug it, and find the big RED
wire at pin #34. Route the
RED/BLACKWOT box pair to this
location, using zip ties to secure
along the way.

15)Making sure to leave enough room
to connect on both sides, cut the red
wire.

16) Split about 3” of the RED/BLACK
WOT box pair apart. Connect the
RED WOT box wire to the side of the
RED wire going to the C133
connector
, and the BLACK WOT box
wire to the side of the RED wire
going into the loom and to the coils.
 

TRQJUNKIE

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Yup they sure do...red wire connects to the snipped end coming out of the connector and the black wire connects to the other snipped end going into the loom that heads to the coils
 

vetteeatinsnake

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alright call me a dumbass but im not understanding. they way im understanding what youre saying it i have to cut the wire and the black wire goes into the end that is cut, and the red wire goes into the wire that is goin into the c133?? sorry if i sound stupid but ive never really messed with any wiring before. Im guessing i cant just connect both black and red into the red wire going into the c133?
 

TRQJUNKIE

Justa Slobra
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Haha your not a dumbass man. Yes you cut the big red wire that runs out of the c133. Now with the two snipped ends you just made on the big red wire you will connect the black wire (from WOT box) to one end and the red wire (from WOT box) to the other snipped end.

The black wire connects to snipped end that is running back towards the engine/coils... The red wire connects to other snipped end leading back into c133

It matters which end you connect to what when doing this because it will not work if its not done right.

Does this makes more sense? I was a little confused about thos part too so no worries.
 

TRQJUNKIE

Justa Slobra
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Yup no prob man. I was the same way with wiring but the more you do it the better you are with it. Also, I'd recommend doing some soldering and shrink tubing these connections. And be sure to repair the black wire you cut into too.

If your not comfortable with soldering buy some loose wire and practice splices and such before doing the real deal on your car. I have always hated those butt connectors and others like them. They just don't hold like solder nor are they as clean of an install. JMO... good luck!
 

CHIZ

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When u get the wiring worked out, u have to stab the throttle. U can't pussy-foot with it. As soon as your foot hits the gas, stab it straight to the floor.
 

w3bb3r04

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THink of it this way, the signal for the coil packs travels through the WOT box using the Red and black wires, so the ones from the factory will not connect to each other. I have had 2 successful installs so far. One on my 05 and the other on my girlfriends 04 Mach. If the lights all work on the box like it should, then the problem is definitely with the Red/black wires. Let us know if that worked for you!
 

vetteeatinsnake

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ok so i went back in a solder the black wire to the side of the red wire running back towards the engine, and soldered the red wire into the shorter end of the red wire goin into the c133 connector. im not gonna say its the best soldering lol but theyre together and insulated. all lights work on the box, car runs fine like it should. one think i noticed when i hit the throttle is a slight buck about 2k. but im just revvin it up really. i havent tried stabbin the throttle to the floor. ill have to wait til i get tuned to do that. last think i need is for it to not be wired properly and it rev to 8k with a ported blower/manifold on a tune for just an upper. thanks for all the help guys ill let yall know whether it works or not when i get tuned and feel safe with it.
 

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