I was on a lift. It's not too terrobly hard just time consuming and you need a helper. We had mine out and back up in about 3 hours
Install questions
- Thread starter brian97cobra
- Start date
I was on a lift. It's not too terrobly hard just time consuming and you need a helper. We had mine out and back up in about 3 hours
ok well I had to do about 4.5mm shorter also.
I probably could have gone 5+ mm shorter but the 4.5mm was close enough to clear the 1/4 to 1/8 needed per the instructions and have some pivot room left to clear everything else. I hate not having some preload on the clutch. im used to that with my prior setups.
but now I have another issue
my damn coolant hose is leaking at the back of the head on the heater hose assembly. what a bummer
the trans may have to come out again to get this fixed!
I probably could have gone 5+ mm shorter but the 4.5mm was close enough to clear the 1/4 to 1/8 needed per the instructions and have some pivot room left to clear everything else. I hate not having some preload on the clutch. im used to that with my prior setups.
but now I have another issue
my damn coolant hose is leaking at the back of the head on the heater hose assembly. what a bummer
the trans may have to come out again to get this fixed!
good lord 3 hours on a lift?
we had it in and out 2 times in like 45 mins on the ground in my garage.
I forgot to ask is anyone using the "free play" clutch cable mod? because I would think that the pedal may vibrate sense there is a small amount of play now in it with the rst and rxt clutches.
im thinking of getting a spring from a parts store and putting on my clutch cable.
im thinking of getting a spring from a parts store and putting on my clutch cable.
I had some trouble with my x pipe going back in. That's from pulling to driving it
ah ok I got ya now. I had everything out and back in except the exhaust in 45 mins. I had to stop because my head coolant mod is leaking
trans may have to come back out again!!!!
let me know how you like it. im going to ace hardware to get a spring and make my own freeplay clutch cable mod
What's a creepily mod ? Is it just a spring ? Where dose it go?
ah ok I got ya now. I had everything out and back in except the exhaust in 45 mins. I had to stop because my head coolant mod is leaking
trans may have to come back out again!!!!
let me know how you like it. im going to ace hardware to get a spring and make my own freeplay clutch cable mod
I love it so far, I've driven it all weekend and have about 200 miles on it. The pedal effort is amazingly easy and it grabs like a mofo even during the break in. As far as the free play mod, there was a thread about the rxt and the free play that advised NOT to use it. I have a small preload on the throwout bearing just because of what I read in that thread. I'll see if I can't find it again and post the link
well if I can ever get mine totally back together ill see how it works with it and without the mod.
but McLeod advises against no preload it wants 1/8 to 1/4 air gap from the pressure plate fingers to the TOB. having preload means 0 air gap.
Guys, does anyone have the total installed length of the pivot stud that worked for them? Looks like most guys are having success with 4 - 5mm shorter than the stock t-56 stud, however I'm going from a 3650 to the Magnum and RXT, so my stock stud length probably isn't the same as the stock t-56 stud.
I have the long adjustable stud from D&D, but I'm going to have to cut it down since it's like 3 - 4 inches. The length from the stud hole on the transmission to the bottom flat part on the pivot head would be great!
Thanks!!
Riley
I have the long adjustable stud from D&D, but I'm going to have to cut it down since it's like 3 - 4 inches. The length from the stud hole on the transmission to the bottom flat part on the pivot head would be great!
Thanks!!
Riley
Probably WAY too late for this but this is the tool you need. I have the same one http://www.summitracing.com/parts/kys-100-7414/overview/
that is not the correct shaft.
the input for the pilot bearing is way to small.
trust me I bought it and need to send it back
if you have an extra pilot bearing laying around and measure the inside diameter and then the shaft diameter. tons of play!
here is the tool I purchased the same one that fiveohjoe said was right. but its not even close.
here are the mic readings from the plastic tool vs the steel tool that I purchased
here is the steel one 14.99mm or
and the plastic one is 16.82mm or
that is a big difference
here are the mic readings from the plastic tool vs the steel tool that I purchased
here is the steel one 14.99mm or
and the plastic one is 16.82mm or
that is a big difference
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Here is a steel tool that I believe to be the right size. I messaged them already. I'll let you know what they say. If it is correct I will buy one and test it myself
http://www.quartermasterusa.com/qm/spline-alignment-tool-1-5-32-x-26-input-shafthtml/
http://www.quartermasterusa.com/qm/spline-alignment-tool-1-5-32-x-26-input-shafthtml/
seems right...
but the splines are fine and length are good
its the nose that goes into the pilot bearing that is the issue
its the nose that goes into the pilot bearing that is the issue
I understand, I'll see what they tell me and report back.
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