install head studs with engine in car?

[94slowbra1]

with the new found boost and power from my gen 4 crusher i have decided that some head studs would be a nice piece of mind. engine is healthy and i dont really feel like dropping it so im going to attempt to do it with the engine in the car. and before anyone says it, yes i understand the correct way is to pull the motor, remove heads, replace the gaskets and install everything. but im just not there yet so ill take my chances that the gaskets will hold up with the removal of one bolt at a time. worst case is i have to pull the engine due to a failing gasket, which i can only imagine is a matter of time with 25lbs of boost and stock bolts. so whats the procedure here?
remove covers
remove one bolt at a time, go in the correct sequence
run the stud down hand tight? should i lube the threads going into the block?
lube the top threads, top of washer and bottom of nut
im going to have a final tq of 85-90 but should i go straight to that number or step it like normal?

also any tips or tricks from anyone that has done it this way before (be honest here guys, i know some of you have done this) would be awesome. thanks

 

[roy_1031]

I think the hardest part is going to be removing the valve covers. If you ever wanted to powder coat them, now might be the time. IF I was to do this job in the garage, I would just go straight to it’s torque spec and torque it down to its spec. If I was starting fresh and all the bolts/studs/nuts were loose, I’d to a 3 step torque (30,60,90 etc.) I think by keeping the gasket tight at all times aside from replacing 1 bolt at a time, it should be ok in theory. I believe ARP gives you a lube for the stud when you’re first installing them too. How many miles are on your engine?


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[94slowbra1]

I've got a plan for removing the covers, hopefully it goes smooth.
I was thinking the same thing, go straight to the final tq. The gasket should stay compressed from the other 9 bolts.
I have the assembly lube from arp, just wasnt sure about what to use, if anything, on the threads that go into the block.
Engine is a ford reman with about 7k on it.

 

[roy_1031]

Too bad you couldn’t tell them to stud it and do the oil pump gears while it was out 7k miles ago.


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[94slowbra1]

I didnt own it when it was replaced. Believe me that would have been done.

 

[Soap]

I put studs in my car last winter for extra insurance. The instructions are very good that come with the ARP kit. Yes you lube the threads and the top of the washer and bottom of nut. The washer is "dimpled" on the bottom so it bites into the head and does not spin for an accurate reading.

Roy is correct, since the gaskets are already crushed and the other 9 bolts are holding the head tight, just run the nut down to final torque and move onto the next one. I did follow the proper sequence though.

Valve cover comes right off the passenger side and I had to tilt the engine for one stud on the passenger side as it's too close to the shock tower. Drive side cover I had to move the brake booster and master cylinder out of the way but the studs were straight forward.

--Joe

 

[94slowbra1]

Thanks joe. I'll go straight to final tq.
I just think with 25lbs of boost it's a good thing to have

 

[fivelitrecobra]

I've got a plan for removing the covers, hopefully it goes smooth.

Loosen, and/or remove motor mount(s)? Get a little extra clearance by titling the engine?

 

[c6zhombre]

....
Engine is a ford reman with about 7k on it.

No kidding? That was a great reman.....you've already thrown a ton at it and more to come!

 

[94slowbra1]

Loosen, and/or remove motor mount(s)? Get a little extra clearance by titling the engine?

I have the engine brace I've used for doing headers. I'm going to drop the k-member and lower the engine down as far as I can. Saw a few others do it this way and to me it seems like the easiest way. ive dropped the k-member multiple times so i can get that done quickly. should give enough room on the driver side to not remove the hydoboost.

No kidding? That was a great reman.....you've already thrown a ton at it and more to come!

supposedly the remans were pretty stout, this one seems to be living up to that hype. i do wish when it was done the previous owner did studs and oil pump. those two things would have been easy and cost effective at the time. oh well

 

[jrgoffin]

Studs can go in one at a time, just like bolts. There is no need to pull engine and thread all ten in at once like the rookies. You can see the whole process, including the re-torque (same process) with the cam cover removal in this build thread:

Aluminator Gibtec Build

 

[94slowbra1]

thanks for the info. the detail and pics help alot.

 

[hotcobra03]

Why drop k member?

I had no issues pulling covers with engine tight.

But I did a drivers head over fender

I do recall a bolt not coming out unless engine was lifted a little

 

[94slowbra1]

Because to me it seems easier than messing with the hydroboost

 

[hotcobra03]

Because to me it seems easier than messing with the hydroboost

Removing hydro booster is super easy

Just a couple nuts and a pin

You don’t remove any hoses

You remove battery
After you unbolt master cylinder, the booster will reach battery area where you tie it. To hold.

This gives you elbow room to work on head

When you lift car to disconnect clutch cable from fork

Brake lines have a bracket holding them Just above drivers wheel you can reach bolt without removing wheel

This allows master cylinder to move from booster and lay to side out of the way of elbow

 

[94slowbra1]

you make it sound so easy. ive looked at removing it and it doesnt look terrible. i just want to F anything up with the brakes. i guess worst case is i try and if it gets out of hand i can drop the k-member.

 

[roy_1031]

Just go for the K member. You’ve done it before and you’re comfortable and familiar with the steps and you have the engine up port bar. I found removing the hydroB a total PITA.


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[hotcobra03]

you make it sound so easy. ive looked at removing it and it doesnt look terrible. i just want to F anything up with the brakes. i guess worst case is i try and if it gets out of hand i can drop the k-member.

You aren’t touching anything on brakes that Would cause problems.

Guess you could try passenger side first and than debate it after that