I have a ported blower with a 2.93/4# combo and the basic power/supporting mods including 63lb injectors and MAF. If you were going to buy a nitrous kit and money wasn't an issue which one would you choose and why? I am not wanting anything crazy right now, just a 50 shot. I want the best and the saftest wet kit on the market that has all the options.
If $$ wasn't an issue what Nitrous kit would you buy?
- Thread starter St_Evo
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having the best kit money can buy and only wanting a 50 shot kind of contradicts itself to me, if you really want that buy a dynotune dry kit. I suggest nx 100 shots to every one though. Perfect hit.
I am all about safety. I just want a little extra punch with the benefits of cooling. I am looking for all the correct safety features...that is where the money is at. Do you guys recommend purge kits, bottle warmers, window switch, etc.?
purge - not necessary, but get one
heater - must
pressure gauge - get one viewable from drivers seat
blow down tube - if you are going to take it to the track, required for some places.
fuel pressure safety switch - wet kits, if you pull fuel before the rail it's not needed, most hate them any ways, if you do pull from the rail keep it 50 shot or less
rpm switch - many buy this, I got around it by wot switch placement activating at 3,000rpm and I have my rev limiter changed to 7k and factory shift light coming on at 6k
a/f switch - too many switches by this point, just have a safe tune checked on the dyno
bottle jacket - if you live some where that gets reasonably cold and you still want to spray buy one, it will help with pressure. Quality ones cost $$$
switch panel- sos(speed of sound) arm rest panel is the best has a gauge opening for you bottle pressure also.
all that being said, I have my nx kit, nx pressure gauge with sos switch panel, heater, and purge, that's it
heater - must
pressure gauge - get one viewable from drivers seat
blow down tube - if you are going to take it to the track, required for some places.
fuel pressure safety switch - wet kits, if you pull fuel before the rail it's not needed, most hate them any ways, if you do pull from the rail keep it 50 shot or less
rpm switch - many buy this, I got around it by wot switch placement activating at 3,000rpm and I have my rev limiter changed to 7k and factory shift light coming on at 6k
a/f switch - too many switches by this point, just have a safe tune checked on the dyno
bottle jacket - if you live some where that gets reasonably cold and you still want to spray buy one, it will help with pressure. Quality ones cost $$$
switch panel- sos(speed of sound) arm rest panel is the best has a gauge opening for you bottle pressure also.
all that being said, I have my nx kit, nx pressure gauge with sos switch panel, heater, and purge, that's it
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haven't had one issue since the day my stuff was installed and I did the work myself. Follow the directions have a small understanding of wiring and time, it's not too bad. I think some have problems having to many switches controlling what the nitrous does. One wire or part preventing it from working or being inconsistant, time spent tracking down problems. You can easily spend a $1000 having a nice system, but that nice system isn't worth having for a 50 shot. The reason why I recommend a 100 shot, fun and worth the money.
If I were just going to do a 50 I would probably go against the norm with a dynotune dry kit premaf with a heater keeping my a/f in the low 11's off spray(one tune) and just having fun with it. No extras.
If cost is no object get a NANO Nitrous System
Nano Nitrous Home
Their system uses a high pressure nitrogen bottle and pressure regulator to keep the nitrous bottle at exactly the pressure you want from the first blast to the very end. No bottle heating required.
Nano Nitrous Home
Their system uses a high pressure nitrogen bottle and pressure regulator to keep the nitrous bottle at exactly the pressure you want from the first blast to the very end. No bottle heating required.
Ah, just get you an NOS Nitrous in a bag. Very stealth. A buddy before he passed away had one on his car. It was great. He would go around looking to race for $$ and they would look under his hood and check everything out. Look in his car and see nothing but a gym bag behind the seat. They wound agree on details and they would get in their cars. He plugged in the cigarette lighter power plug. Turned on the bottle. Got the switch positioned in his and and would be ready to go. It had interchangeable jets from 20 - 100 hp in 20 hp increments. He had a ball with it. No one would suspect it until he hit the button. It plumber into the air filter area and blew over the mass air meter so the computer would enrichen the fuel. Definitely a fun kit.
I wanted the evil twin kit at one time, just for fun, but didn't know if it would fit in the trunk. :-D
Thanks for the info guys! I have been looking at the NX wet kit and it looks like the best choice. There are a couple different add on pkgs you can get for it that has the bottle heater and purge in it. I will probably just pick up the window switch and maybe the Pressure guage that mounts in the front of the vehicle. My only questions are... What is a blow down tube?.. and when you use the pressure guage that mounts in the front of the vehicle can you still use the one on the bottle?
Has anyone here tried to run the NOS direct port kit "goes under the injectors" on a cobra engine before? I know this is the safest way to make sure you have equal distribution to all cylinders but on a small shot it probably wont matter much. Still interested though
blow down tube is a safety device that will vent your nitrous outside of the car in a case of extreme pressure. Without one in the same case it would vent inside your vehicle. Needed for some tracks. Probably isn't going to happen unless you wire your heater wrong and run it over night with your bottle closed. The gauge on the bottle is kind of pointless. You can use both, but you aren't going to stand by your bottle with the trunk open to see if you are up to pressure.
one person has that I know of and he is actually from your area, but I don't know if he ever actually used it that way. Required a big blower spacer for them to fit under the rails. As to the equal distribution, people run 200 shots, it's no big deal with a 11.0-11.5 a/f. There is enough safety room. You just need to have the octane. I like to over octane mine a little.
I didn't see them online but it seems like it might be a decent idea to have one. It would suck to drive a couple hours to a track and then find out you can't run b/c you don't have it.
I run 93 octane in the car at all times and I have even tried a little Torco blend. I think you have talked me into running a little bit bigger of a shot. How much harder on your car is it to run a 75-100 shot vs a 50?
the blow down tube comes in each accessory package. also if you buy off the nx website right now they will give you an extra free 10lb bottle. I don't know where your timing is at right now, but for a 100 shot with extra safety you would need about 6-7 more octane - 7 less timing- or combination of the two. Two cans of torco per full tank of 93 is about 100 octane or 1 can per half tank. You could run a 100 shot off the tune you have right now with proper fuel jetting and the 100 octane torco mix. It's what I do.
pick what ever one you have the fuel delivery for
before the rail 100 shot
from the rail 50 shot
I use 52 nitrous 31 fuel for my jets, which is a higher fuel jet than what they have in the manual, but the jets are included in the kit.
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Those are pretty good #'s. I am hoping to be around 500-520whp w/o nitrous so I was thinking a 50 shot would be getting me close to the 600whp mark. Do you have any videos with your car running at the track or any roll races?
My biggest concern is safety and reliability. It seems like everytime I run someone using nitrous they are always complaining about the bottle not being full or spraying right. I just want to have everything working properly at all times or I don't really want to use it. I have used meth injection, race fuel, and E-85 and I likes them all b/c they were consistent. That is all I want out of whatever kit/accessories I get...
what do you mean by not spraying right mechanical, wiring, dry-post tune problems, maf problems. Wet nitrous for the most part is issue free if installed right.
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