Idiots Guide To Taking The Clutch Assist Spring Off

[nuxx]

Just letting everyone know the exact procedure I used to remove my clutch assist spring. Highlighting some issues that could have saved me tons of time and frustration.

After the spring was out, I just fell in love with the car again. Last two times I drove the car prior to this, I actually was just waiting to get home since the clutch was annoying me so much.

Well after trying the below method for longer than I'd like to admit, I finally gave in and tried the well known method of removing the clutch assist spring.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iy7MOEuYVj4

Problem with this method, is that I couldn't get anywhere near enough clearance when the clutch was depressed and spring compressed with vice grips to get the spring off. Seems easy in the video, but maybe because the whole assembly is out of the car.

Anyway, gave up and just moved on to doing this method:
2013 Mustang Shelby GT500 high rpm sticking clutch fix - Clutch Assist Spring Removal tutorial - YouTube

Make sure you watch the above video and get used to what you are going to be doing. Also look under your dash to get used to the area.

It's pretty straight forward and now having done the procedure, I'd like to share a few tips and explain further on a few areas that held me up.

This seriously could be done in less than 5 minutes, and all you need is flathead screwdriver.

Steps:
1. Removing the cruise control sensor. Super easy, just twist the sensor about a 1/4 turn and it'll pop out. Just put to the side.

2. Removing the clip holding the arm on to the clutch pedal. Think of this clip as having a larger circle and a smaller circle. Goal here is to push the clip over till it's on the larger circle, so it'll just come off. Basically just use the screwdriver to push the clip so it moves from the smaller circle over to the larger circle. Just make sure you don't use too much force and bend the clip or have it fly off and get lost somewhere.

3. Taking the arm off of the clutch pedal. There isn't much play in the arm, so just try to turn/rotate the arm until it comes off the clutch pedal. A little leverage with the screwdriver might help. Note that when off the clutch pedal will fly forward towards your face.

4. Removing the spring. Now just pull forward on the clutch towards you, the seat, and the spring will come out by itself. Now just remove the pin and the white piece of plastic.

5. Put the arm back on the clutch pedal. Like I said, not too much travel in the arm. Just push the clutch in until it lines up with the arm. Now rotate the arm until it gets back on the clutch pedal. Then just slide back on when it's on the lip and lined up.

6. Put the clip back on. Just put the large hole on first, then play with it until it slides back on to the smaller hole and is locked in place.

7. Re-attach the cruise control sensor. This caused me the most wasted time and headaches. I tried every which way to get this thing back on. Being the last and easiest step, this was killing me, esp. with all the little cuts I was getting and the 110 degree garage. After just about giving up, I decided to push the clutch pedal in and try one last time. Needless to say, it went right in and was easy to lock into place. So yeah, have the clutch in when doing this. Basically just line up the pegs to the opening, then push down and twist to lock into place.

Hope this helps :beer:

 

[IcebourgGT500]

Thanks for the info!! That is what id great about this forum. Everyone helping out!!

 

[Devious_Snake]

Well thought out and worded. Told you it would be a great mod.

 

[TORQJNKY]

I've got to try this sometime this week.

 

[72MachOne99GT]

I've got to try this sometime this week.

Im a person who can set out to complete a relatively complex and accomplish it,but it is small easy jobs that frustrate me to no end... so I was slightly concerned by this. ...definitely shouldn't have been.

 

[Norton]

I've got to try this sometime this week.

Im a person who can set out to complete a relatively complex and accomplish it,but it is small easy jobs that frustrate me to no end... so I was slightly concerned by this. ...definitely shouldn't have been.

JUST DO IT! It's NOT hard, and you WON'T be sorry.

 

[nuxx]

JUST DO IT! It's NOT hard, and you WON'T be sorry.

Totally agree

 

[MNCobra]

still need to do this mod....

 

[mustangc]

Can someone add to this thread (for us idiots ) Why there is a need to do the clutch assist spring removal. What is the benefit of doing the mod, vis-à-vis what's wrong with the stock setup? I don't have my car yet, so I was just wondering.

 

[nuxx]

Can someone add to this thread (for us idiots ) Why there is a need to do the clutch assist spring removal. What is the benefit of doing the mod, vis-à-vis what's wrong with the stock setup? I don't have my car yet, so I was just wondering.

With spring in:
- Inconsistent and nonlinear clutch feel
- Clutch can stick after high RPM shifts

 

[GOTSVT?]

Havent had any issues with mine. Dont plan on removing it!
Feels like my Spec P trim clutch in the 08, but smoother.

 

[OaktownACE]

Has anyone done the vice grip technique?

Has anyone done the vice grip technique and been successful with it?

 

[tfrederi]

Has anyone done the vice grip technique and been successful with it?

Yes, I used the vice-grip technique this past weekend on my 2014. Worked well and seemed much easier than all these other multiple steps. :rockon:

Best Regards,
Tim

 

[Snoopy49]

I tried it a couple of months ago and didn't have any luck. I wasn't able to move the pedal far enough forward to unclip the top mount. I used the other method and the spring was out in less than 5 minutes and I was able to do it with most of my body outside of the car..

 

[nhs156]

I think there should be just 1 step in this guide:

1. Don't do it.

In all seriousness, I don't understand all the fuss about removing the spring. I've owned many manual/stick shift cars, and the car shifts brilliantly from the factory. The clutch pedal takes about 1000 miles to get used to, after which it feels perfect. I'm leaving mine alone as it works just fine.

 

[Daffy]

Well, I was not going to do this, figured I've been rowing gears with enough different clutches to just have this one grow on me. But, I'm at a point fo seriously considering yanking the spring & checking it out. For everyday, it's pretty much OK, but as I'm looking at some trackdays, trying to get a settled & smooth release with highly spririted driving is a challenge with the way the pivot point is and the spring pressure, it just seems to vary in pressure right where I don't want it to, making me have to think about the smoothness, not something you want to have to be doing on-track.

Thnx for posting this, I know it'll be very helpful as I give ti a try in the next week or two.

 

[Snoopy49]

It takes the same amount of time to reinstall the spring assembly as it does to remove it. Remove it, if you don't like the results, reinstall the spring. I have not read of anyone reinstalling the spring, that should tell you something.

 

[aksvt]

I think there should be just 1 step in this guide:

1. Don't do it.

In all seriousness, I don't understand all the fuss about removing the spring. I've owned many manual/stick shift cars, and the car shifts brilliantly from the factory. The clutch pedal takes about 1000 miles to get used to, after which it feels perfect. I'm leaving mine alone as it works just fine.

Yup, have to agree. Several wot pulls well in to 000 with out any issues. I came from a paxton blown GT with mcloed, feels about the same to me.

 

[mustangc]

With spring in:
- Inconsistent and nonlinear clutch feel
- Clutch can stick after high RPM shifts

Thanks for the info.

I think there should be just 1 step in this guide:

1. Don't do it.

In all seriousness, I don't understand all the fuss about removing the spring. I've owned many manual/stick shift cars, and the car shifts brilliantly from the factory. The clutch pedal takes about 1000 miles to get used to, after which it feels perfect. I'm leaving mine alone as it works just fine.

My daily driver has the same over center setup. Before I bought it, I read the multitude of complaints similar to this forum, on that one as well. [pedal pressure changes right at point of engagement, inconsistent, touchy, hanging, etc.] During the test drive, I did struggle with a smooth engagement. Now that I've gotten used to it, the clutch feels perfectly natural and I can drive it like butter.

I guess I'll just have to wait and see on the Shelby. Perhaps occasional driving will make it harder to get accustomed to than daily driving:shrug:

I can imagine the frustration of Ford engineers. People complained about 1-2 shift grind on 07-12 cars. One of the culprits was the clutch not disengaging fast enough, so they revised the clutch to disengage more quickly-> Then people began to complain the engagement point was too high. This change, along with increased clamping force required by the 5.8, caused the pedal effort to go up. In order to improve that, they installed an over center spring to reduce the force needed to hold the clutch. Then the first thing owners do is remove the OC assist... I guess you can't please everyone.

 

[occar]

Some of the clutches just feel awful with the spring (near engagement, they just suddenly change the assist force massively). I have access to two 2013's. One's clutch pedal was fine (smooth assist force all the way), one was awful (big change near clutch engagement). The one that was awful, is now fine without the spring (though heavier than the other now, but not uncomfortably so). It ends up a little looser above the engagement point, but it is no longer problematic.

If you think it feels fine, you have one of the good ones. I'm surprised there isn't a TSB, because there is a radically different feel. If you had one of the weird ones, you would know....