How are you only seeing that much boost? Just doesn’t seem right, assuming you don’t have aftermarket cams you snuck in there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think it's time for more boost.
- Thread starter 2011 gtcs
- Start date
How are you only seeing that much boost? Just doesn’t seem right, assuming you don’t have aftermarket cams you snuck in there.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have no idea, I have ARH headers with no cats so that might drop down 1 psi, But I pressure tested my autometer boost gauge and it was pretty much spot on. I almost wounder if there is something wrong with my blower. When I talked to Van he didn't seem to concerned with it and said I can do a 10% lower to help.
I appreciate the arithmetic lesson, but I'm not sure what your point is. The purpose of (SAE) correction, applied to virtually all dyno charts I've seen, is to "standardize" for environmental factors (i.e., temperature, atmospheric pressure, and humidity) that cause differences in engine output. While comparing dyno numbers is of dubious value, doing so without correction is of no value. SAE correction (to 77 degrees F, 29.23in Hg, and 0 percent humid air) provides the most meaningful comparison possible, regardless of what the factor is.
In this case, we don't know what fearthesnake's correction factor is but, with similar mods, our HP and TQ numbers are within 3% of each other. My HP number is ~2.5% higher (due to my ~5300ft altitude?) yet, somehow, his TQ number is ~2.2% higher, (despite being at an altitude of only 700ft). IMO, the negligible difference in our numbers seems to confirm the value of SAE correction, regardless of what our respective factors were.
When comparing the two cars I would agree with you. If you take your car to any dyno in the us it should put down the same numbers no matter what due to the correction factor.
I guess I left out a word in my original reply, actually I think I tried quoting it but didnt work. I was only talking about how your stock clutch lasts with 733 hp, the clutch doesn't actually see 733 hp since you have a 26% correction. Your clutch is seeing the same force applied to it as a 585 hp car at sea level.
Last edited:
Can't argue with any of that.
FWIW, the point of my post was nothing more than "stock clutch experiences seem to vary widely." The friend I mentioned with similar power mods, lives here in Colo Spgs and the 4-5 race passes he made were at the Pikes Peak Airstrip Attack (where the DA is routinely over 8K ft). In other words, his stock clutch gave up the ghost when his car had only about 5K miles on it, despite fewer race passes and a similar power level to mine.
The correction factors seem pretty dang close and consistent. I don't have my correction factors and don't see them listed on the dyno sheet. So I don't really know but I remember it was about the same temperature, maybe low 70s when I dyno'd.
I thought LTH would result in about a 2-3 psi drop w/no Cats but could be wrong. Maybe someone on here has their before/after readings with LTH installs. It just seems 2.4 pulley and 14psi is low. About your initial question, I'm at the same dilemma - on a limited budget because of family obligations (feel your pain my friend!) but it's all good. I have roughly $1K- $1,300 saved up and contemplating next move.
Install BAP, Injectors convert to E-85 or do the Lower 10% pulley with BAP. As much as I want to do LTH, roughly $2K-$2,200 for Headers,Midpipe, Labor and that's finding a used set is steep!
E-85 intrigues me, have it locally to purchase and car is driven locally mainly on weekends. Thoughts?
Sucks being on a budget when building a car, it's something I'm not used to lol. I already have a 21 volt BAP so all I will need is ID1300s to go E85. But 1300s are stupid expensive. The 10% lower would be a nice jump in power and bring me back up to good boost and since I run MS100 full time that might be me best choice for now. But I'm going to wait till after the holidays before I make my choice. Either way I think I'll pick up 40+whp off of either one.
Do you know how much power your car puts down on a dyno?
This was back in April. Scroll down towards bottom of that page.
ID1000s are fine for E85 assuming?
https://www.svtperformance.com/threads/2013-2014-shelby-gt500-dyno-results.1026925/page-12
I know some guys run ID1000s on E85, I'm pretty sure Lund recommends ID1300s for E85 unless something has changed. But I'm still on stock injectors.
Yea lund told me ID1300's for E85 with a BAP and a similar combo to yours. Im guessing the Larger injector helps with pressure prop at the rail.
I'm sure it does, eventually I'll get a set of them, but damn they're so expensive
Users who are viewing this thread
