I think I licked the stall...

[Cobra'03]

Kudos to those that posted how to re-set the idle. I did it several days ago, and so far not even close to a stall. I will drive one more day, then re-install my Amazon CAI and Chip and see how it all fits together.

My analysis is that the poster (I should know who, but forgot) who said that it is essential to keep the base mechanical[/I] idle at around 650-750 is right. My base was somewhere around the 500 mark, and when the fans were running, the idle dropped fast, or I dumped the clutch, it would drop to that, then catch or else stall.

I set the base idle (using the TACH feature in diagnostic mode) to be 750 when the car is hot and the fans running - around 775 the rest of the time. Idles smoother too. Could not get the TPS lower than 1.02 VDC, but with accuracy tolerance of 1-3% for most digital voltmeters, it is close enough.

BTW, the idle screw was a pain to remove, so I pulled the TB altogether. The screw is a 5mm. I used a hex socket head, black oxide one in a 20 mm length. That was perfect - allowed me to precisely set RPM by making fine adjustments with the hex key (4mm). I put the hex side facing the throttle set plate - that way, there is a large contact area, and Ford snoopers will look at the other end and it appears bone stock. You do have to set the idle iteratively, starting/stopping the engine each time, because to access the hex head you have to lift the plate so far that the revs go sky high. When I first fired it up it went to 4k before I switched off.

I also found that the digital read higher than was indicated on the tach - by about 10-25 rpm.

There was a fair amount of sludge built up on the back of the throttle butterflies. 2000 miles for cryin out loud! I cleaned it thoroughly with citrus-based d-Limonene.

One thing I had not seen mentioned before - the idle is now the same when air conditioning is on, or not. It used to bump up to 750 or so with the A/C on, but idle much lower when it was off.

Thanks to all the great posters on this one.

Keepin' my fingers crossed.

P.S. Rick at Amazon - this may have been the problem all along - if so, the next time you see me we will be doin' some serious modding.

 

[dougwg]

Originally posted by Cobra'03
There was a fair amount of sludge built up on the back of the throttle butterflies. 2000 miles for cryin out loud! I cleaned it thoroughly with citrus-based d-Limonene.

Dude....tell me did not remove the moly coating(dark grey stuff)?

 

[CuLaTeR]

Yes I am a noob for asking this question, but why not clean the build up on the TB?

 

[03Sssnake]

Originally posted by Cobra'03
I think I licked the stall...

How did it taste ??? ;-)

 

[dougwg]

build up ...yes.... but not the factory moly coating....it's there to seal the stamped brass butterflys to the TB bores

 

[dougwg]

Re: Re: I think I licked the stall...

Originally posted by 03Sssnake
How did it taste ??? ;-)

ROFLMAO

 

[dougwg]

happy 4th guys... I'm going out side now to blow $hit up :beer:

 

[JB]

Originally posted by dougwg
happy 4th guys... I'm going out side now to blow $hit up :beer:

UHHH-OHHH!!

{running for cover now} :chicken: :chicken: :chicken:

 

[LIGHTNING LARRY]

Originally posted by dougwg
happy 4th guys... I'm going out side now to blow $hit up :beer:

That's why I live on the other coast. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Careful JB.

 

[lethal]

Originally posted by Cobra'03
I think I licked the stall...

Can you come lick mine next?

 

[KWladyka]

Originally posted by Cobra'03
Kudos to those that posted how to re-set the idle. I did it several days ago, and so far not even close to a stall.

Well that sounds a lot better than last time when you said "I have decided that Ford can fix this, and I am not going to monkey around with idle screws and things that are trell-tale. I did check and reset the TPS base voltage to .98vdc right on the nose."

I'm glad you tried it and it worked. After I did mine over 6 months ago stalling has never been a problem again. I figured you had changed your mind when I saw your post asking for the idle screw size. I had no idea of its size and I had just turned mine with a vice grip. I think getting one with a bolt head is a good idea.

I'm glad to hear the good news. The only thing that I could imagine that would change it later on is a build up of sludge on the throttle body blade. At least you know the remedy.

 

[Cobra'03]

Re: Re: I think I licked the stall...

Originally posted by dougwg
Dude....tell me did not remove the moly coating(dark grey stuff)?

Yeah, that was the stuff. But since the butterflies are now cracked at idle, I do not see the issue with doing it. Idle is smooth and there are no off-idle issues.

Do you use such a coating on the BilletFlows?

 

[Cobra'03]

Re: Re: I think I licked the stall...

Originally posted by lethal
Can you come lick mine next?

Sorry, I do not swing that way. Thx for asking.

 

[lethal]

ROFLMAO..... hope everyone had a safe 4th.

I'm inclined to fix my idle problem, but its so infrequent that it happens..... do you plan to release detailed FAQ, directions, or maybe even tell Ford how to fix their problem... that would great.

 

[Cobra'03]

Directions (from memory)

Parts needed:
8mm socket
4 mm hex key
stubby Phillips screwdriver or mini ratcheting screwdriver
duct tape
digital voltmeter with sharp probes
clear silicone sealer
Threadlocker (blue)
small paper clip or sharp needle

Car should be close to operating temperature - use a fan to cool the area where you are working.

1) Remove the TB
a) remove the IAC control that sits on top of the TB. Uses 8 mm socket. Do not disconnect the electrical connector. Lay assembly aside.
b) Disconnect electrical connector from TB. On the right side are two cable connectors, call them L and R. L is looped around the throttle assembly and is removed by opening the TB to its full open position, which relieves tension on the cable. Then, the metal tab which fits into a receiver just comes out. R is a gray plastic assy. Open the TB to full open and the gray tab pops off.
c) Remove the TB. It uses 8mm socket - there are 4 bolts, all easily accessible. Once they break, they can be fingered off as they are fine pitch. The TB will come off.

2) Remove the idle screw. This is a 5 mm stud with loctite applied.
a) The throttle is spring loaded - prop it open with something - I used a small wooded dowel, but a screwdriver can also work.
b) Spray some brake cleaner or Isopropyl alcohol on the loctite to soften it.
c) Use a small pliers, long nose etc. to work the idle screw off. Turn counter clockwise. Takes a while - grip hard to bite into the threads.
d) Slightly loosen the TPS screws while you can get at them. They are on the black plastic assy to the left of the TB, which you disconnected a cable from earlier.

3) Replace idle screw.
a) Clean threaded area with brake blaster or other solvent.
b) Apply lubricant to the 5mm x 20mm black oxide hex cap socket screw (I got mine at Lowe's). WD40 or engine oil work well.
c) Carefully start it and thread it into the TB - you can do either end - I wanted the bolt "head" to hit the throttle tang, so the studded end would show, keeping a stock look. Doing it the other way makes it easier to adjust without having to start and stop the engine. Your choice.
d) Adjust the idle screw until the butterflies are jus "cracked" open a bit

4) Replace the TB. Attach the TPS electrical connector and the throttle cables.

5) Place duct tape over the exposed holes where the IAC was removed.

6) Try to start the car. Warning: if you open the throttle too much, the car could rev high - be ready to shut it off! If the will not start, adjust the idle screw so the throttle is cracked some more.

7) Attempt to get the idle in the 775 range - it will drop as full temperature is achieved and will allow for effects of brake application, power steering load, etc.

8) Set the final RPM to about 775 with the "digital tach" feature of the gauge diagnostic system. While pressing the odometer button, turn the key to on, wait a few seconds, and when the odometer light goes out, start the car. Repeated pressings will lead to a digital tach reading. It is more accurate than the dash analog tach.

9) Apply some Threadlocker to the back side of the idle screw.

10) Adjust the TPS.
a) Get your digital multimeter and set it to proper DC range (TPS is about 1 vdc); apply black lead to a good ground
b) The middle wire of the 3-wire connector is "hot". Place a pin or a sharp probe through the insulation. Or, insert the paper clip in the middle of the plastic cable plug assy.
c) Turn the engine to "Run" but do not start
d) Probe the middle wire - it will read somewhere North of 1.0vdc. Move the TPS assy until it reads close to .98-.99vdc. Wiggle it to see how movement makes the reading go up or down. It is trial and error, when you are close snug up the screws. Re-check, re-adjust as necessary.
e) When you are satisfied, remove the probe or pin and apply a little silicone sealer to the hole in the wiring harness.
f) The worst is over.

10) Reinstall the IAC on top of the TB. Start the car. The engine should settle in at a nice 750-775 as it fully warms. Let it idle for about 7-10 mins undisturbed; then switch the A/C and let it idle 7-10 mins undisturbed.

You are done.

 

[mosconiac]

Cobra'03: It's hard to believe that you've had your '03 into the dealer several times for this issue and they never thought to perform the above.

This really concerns me. It must be true that the dealers have NO CLUE what they are doing. This should have been the FIRST thing they did and they would have saved you a LOT of heartache (and possible injury!).

 

[SStupid]

Sub

sub for info. Thanks.

 

[lguerra1]

Originally posted by mosconiac
Cobra'03: It's hard to believe that you've had your '03 into the dealer several times for this issue and they never thought to perform the above.

This really concerns me. It must be true that the dealers have NO CLUE what they are doing. This should have been the FIRST thing they did and they would have saved you a LOT of heartache (and possible injury!).

It is not that they have NO CLUE, it's that the idle screw can alter emmissions readings. Regardless of how miniscule it will change, auto manufacturers do not want tech's messing with things that effect emmissions.

Back during the OBDI days, techs would change the idle set screw at will. That practiced has changed substantially since the release of OBDII.

 

[lethal]

Re: Directions (from memory)

Originally posted by Cobra'03
d) Slightly loosen the TPS screws while you can get at them. They are on the black plastic assy to the left of the TB, which you disconnected a cable from earlier.

Didn't you get that memo about your TPS reports?

P.S. Besides that, great job, I'm going to be performing this procedure soon, thanks Cobra`03

 

[Cobra'03]

I agree. I printed a lot of the info on the stalling threads and my Service Mgr read them all - I asked about "Let's try the idle thing" and he balked mostly on emissions, but also on the fact that the dealers are at risk to FoMoCo when they stray from the process - helpline, etc. Once they start to mess with the car, they lose the ability to baseline. And the Factory will sometimes abandon the dealer if they go outside the lines of the box.

This is one where my dealer would not aggressively pursue a repair - they have shown a tendency to be scaredy cats of Ford previously - I think Ford is really putting the dealer's ballz in a vise these days.