I hate my svt!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[turbobandit]

Ok... I REALLY love this little car... but it's been holding up to the F.O.R.D. acronym pretty well lately :nonono::nonono::nonono: (whisper... found on road dead):burn:

SVT FOCUS CAM PHASER ?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

WHERE CAN I BUY ONE?!?!??!

Already put in the oil solenoid, new timing belt, re-timed 98435904375 times.:bash: I believe the stupid dealership broke and binded up the cam phaser... BUT WHAT'S THE FORD NAME FOR THIS PART?! AND WHERE CAN I BUY IT?!


Car keeps going into limp mode, and is SLOW AS A DOG! no differance between 1/4 throttle and full throttle. Keeps throwing the same cam advanced codes.



at around 114k miles, i had to replace the timing belt. All new pulleys on it, and got it lined up to Top dead center 100 times. (ok, only 4-5 times pulled it apart)

I'm extremely mechanically inclined, and i got sick of it. Brought it to the dealership.... They charged me ANOTHER 400$ just to RE DO the timing belt alignment. (that i had already done perfectly)

Same problem.

Brought it back again, Now they say it was the Cam Solenoid. (my first suspistion).
Ordered that, and they put it in. (another $100)


SAME PROBLEM!!!!!!!









:fm::fm::fm::fm: UGH I HATE THIS CAR!!!!! (when it's not working):fm::fm:

BUT I LOVE IT WHEN IT WORKS!


Please help guys.

Here's a couple pics of my baby. (oh yea, and my Turbo'd LS1 s10 in the background w/ 600hp, and the boat)

 

[elliot400]

hey man, sorry for your troubles. I hope she gets back on your good side, and runs well till the end of time. Good luck! E-

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

Thats the VCT unit, P/N 2M5Z*6256*AA $273.00 from me or $394.00 retail.

I'd be surprised if that had actually failed though, Have you been on Focaljet at all?

Go over there and PM a guy named Cayse, he was going through a similar issue recently.

 

[jasonpalamar]

That is a very odd part to fail.

 

[svteric]

i have the same problem
except mine throws a code that says that the cam timing is over retarded

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

i have the same problem
except mine throws a code that says that the cam timing is over retarded

Have you done the timing belt?

 

[nvmaddog]

Same problem, did you get yours fixed?

I recently replaced the timing belt and the dealership has told me the same thing about the cam phaser be stuck. Did you replace yours? If so what happend?

 

[Sapperstang]

I hate mine too, but for about 15 other reasons.

 

[svteric]

Have you done the timing belt?

No i havent.. and noticed my compression on cylinder 3 was low... been told that the timing can effect that.. dont know how true that is..

 

[HalfTime]

The problem is that there is no retaining bolt or lock notch in the cam timeing gear, just held in place by the center bolt. Horible desing imo. I finally gave up pulling it apart every time, and just drove it the way it was. I wont take it over 4k, and never more then 1/4 throttle till I rip into it again, but Im at a loss as to how to fix this too, just thought I'd let uyou know your knot alone.

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

The problem is that there is no retaining bolt or lock notch in the cam timeing gear, just held in place by the center bolt. Horible desing imo. I finally gave up pulling it apart every time, and just drove it the way it was. I wont take it over 4k, and never more then 1/4 throttle till I rip into it again, but Im at a loss as to how to fix this too, just thought I'd let uyou know your knot alone.

It's a design that's been in use by Ford on the 2.0 Zetec engine class since they came out in 1995, it works quite well but does require that you know how to do the job.

When I did my timing belt I had a guy helping that had done them on standard Zetecs before and it took us exactly one try to get it right.

He had never done an SVT but it's close enough that it was no problem.

If you can't get it right I'd highly suggest paying someone to do it right because if it's wrong it only takes one slip of your foot or a missed shift to introduce your valves and pistons to each other.

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

No i havent.. and noticed my compression on cylinder 3 was low... been told that the timing can effect that.. dont know how true that is..

I'd highly suggest NOT driving that until you figure out exactly what the problem is.

In most cases on boosted cars an issue with number three cylinder leads to major problems. For some reason number three seems to be most suceptible to damage and failure.

If you've never visited the site you might want to check it out and ask the guys on Focaljet http://forums.focaljet.com/forced-induction-nitrous/






.

 

[1turbofocus]

FORDSVTPARTS you are WRONG , there is a diff between the ZX3 and the SVT as the SVT has a advance built into the cam and by just sticking the plates in the cam and #1 up like a ZX3 you will have the Int cam wrong unless dumb luck is on your side and your lucky enough to hit it , you have to have the Int can GEAR in its proper location before you tighten it down or as soon as you start the car the VCT solinoid lets the oil pass and puts your intake cam gear in the wrong place making it run like crap and or make you over/underadvance come on

If you go on Focusfanatics the only place on the web that I have seen that installing the timing belt is correct , fj sucks

Tom

 

[FORDSVTPARTS]

Really?

Page two,

Timing belt-IMPORTANT!! Look inside! - The Ford Focus Forum | Powered by Focaljet


BTW-I don't believe I said anywhere in my post that the Zetec and SVT used the same timing procedure, that's not what was being discussed anyways. I was responding to the issue of cam gear retention.




.

I'll post it here as well although I think I did post it here a while ago so with some searching it could be found again.



Heres the text, the pics might not work though.



Timing Belt Printable View (1149 KB)

Special Tool(s) Plate, Camshaft Alignment
303-465 (T94P-6256-CH)
Timing Peg, Crankshaft
303-574 (T97P-6000-A)

General Equipment Cable Ties
Hydraulic Jack

Material Item Specification
Anti-seize grease
WSD-M1244-A
Silicone grease
A960-M1C171-AA

Removal

CAUTION: Since the engine is not free-wheeling, timing procedures must be followed exactly or piston and valve damage can occur.

CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary with an open-ended wrench or a suitable pair of locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.

General Instructions.
The positions of the engine mounting and the engine roll restrictor are described looking from the transmission toward the engine.
If necessary, use special tool 412-108 to remove coolant and ventilation hoses.
Due to special model variants, some steps do not apply to all vehicles. These are clearly marked in the text.
If necessary, cut the cable ties and install new cable ties on installation.
Disconnect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.
Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
Detach the drive belt cover.

Loosen the coolant pump pulley retaining bolts.

Remove the accessory drive belt.
Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise.
Remove the accessory drive belt.

Remove the crankshaft pulley.

Remove the coolant pump pulley.

CAUTION: The removal of the lower part of the engine front cover is necessary to avoid damage to the timing belt.

Detach the timing belt lower cover.

Lower the vehicle.
Detach the coolant expansion tank and position it to one side.

Detach the power steering fluid reservoir and position it to one side.

CAUTION: Insert a suitable wooden block between the oil pan and the trolley jack.

Position the hydraulic jack with the wooden block under the oil pan and raise the engine so that the engine front mount is free from load.
NOTE: Mark the position of the engine front mount.

Remove the engine front mount.

Remove the accessory drive belt idler pulley.

Detach the timing belt upper cover.
Leave the timing belt cover in its installed position.

Remove the engine front mount bracket.
Remove the timing belt upper cover.

Remove the ignition coil pack cover.
Detach the retaining clips.
Detach the coolant pipe from the retaining clip.

Remove the engine upper cover.

Disconnect the variable cam timing (VCT) valve electrical connector.

CAUTION: Do not pull the cable when removing the spark plug connectors. If necessary, remove the ignition cables from the ignition coil to avoid kinking the cables. Turn the spark plug connectors slightly before removing to loosen the seal.

CAUTION: Pull off the spark plug connectors in line with the spark plugs.

NOTE: Loosening sequence: from the outside to the inside, working diagonally.

Remove the valve cover.
Disconnect the spark plug connectors.
Detach the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
Fully loosen 10 bolts.

Remove the spark plugs.

NOTE: At TDC the crankshaft keyway is in the 12 o'clock position.

Turn the engine to 60° BTDC on cylinder number 1.
NOTE: Use an open-ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating.

Remove the intake camshaft pulley blanking plug.

NOTE: Use an open-ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating.

Loosen the camshaft pulley retaining bolts.

Detension the timing belt (timing belt shown removed for clarity).
Loosen the bolt four turns.
Position the tensioner so that the locating tab is at approximately the 4 o'clock position.
Line up the hexagonal key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer with the pointer that is located behind the pulley.

Remove the timing belt.
Installation

CAUTION: Since the engine is not free-wheeling, timing procedures must be followed exactly or piston and valve damage can occur.

CAUTION: The camshaft must be held stationary with an open-ended wrench or a suitable pair of locking pliers. Do not use the alignment tool to hold the camshaft in position or damage to the camshaft may occur.

NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts. The camshaft timing pulleys must be able to turn freely on the camshafts.

Turn the camshafts to the ignition position on cylinder No. 1 and insert the special tool into the camshafts.

Remove the blanking plug and install the special tool.

NOTE: At TDC the crankshaft keyway is in the 12 o'clock position.

NOTE: Rotate the crankshaft clockwise.

NOTE: Make sure that the crankshaft contacts the timing peg.

Rotate the crankshaft to TDC on cylinder No. 1.

CAUTION: Do not kink the timing belt (do not bend the timing belt less than a diameter of 35 mm).

CAUTION: Do not rotate the crankshaft, check that it is still resting against the timing pin.

NOTE: The lug of the belt tensioner must not be hooked into the sheet metal cover during timing belt installation.

Install a new timing belt.
Starting from the crankshaft timing belt pulley and working counterclockwise install the timing belt, keeping it under tension.

CAUTION: Incorrect timing belt tension will result in incorrect valve timing.

Pretension the timing belt.
Rotate the tensioner locating tab counterclockwise and insert the locating tab into the slot in the rear timing cover.
Position the hexagonal key slot in the tensioner adjusting washer to the 4 o'clock position.
Tighten the attaching bolt enough to seat the tensioner firmly against the rear timing cover, but still allow the tensioner adjusting washer to be rotated using a 6 mm hexagonal key.

CAUTION: Tension the timing belt, working counterclockwise.

Using the hexagonal key, rotate the adjusting washer counterclockwise until the notch in the pointer is centered over the index line on the locating tab (the pointer will move clockwise during adjustment).

Tighten the bolt, while holding the adjusting washer in position.

NOTE: Use an open-ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating.

Tighten the camshaft pulley retaining bolts.

Remove the special tool.

Remove the special tool 303-465 from the camshafts.
NOTE: Turn the crankshaft two revolutions in the normal direction of rotation.

Check the valve timing by inserting the special tool. Correct it if necessary.
Install the special tool and make sure that the it is contact with the crankshaft.
Install the special tool into the camshafts; if necessary loosen the timing pulleys and correct the camshaft alignment.
Remove the special tools.
NOTE: Use an open-ended wrench to prevent the camshaft from rotating.

Install the intake camshaft pulley blanking plug.

Install the blanking plug.

Install the spark plugs.

CAUTION: Use a blunt object (a plastic cable tie) to apply the silicone grease, to avoid damaging the spark plug connectors.

CAUTION: Push on the spark plug connectors, keeping them in line with the spark plugs.

NOTE: Coat the inside of the spark plug connectors with silicone grease to a depth of 5-10 mm.

Install the valve cover.
Tighten the bolts in two stages.
Stage 1: 2 Nm.
Stage 2: 7 Nm.
Attach the PCV hose to the valve cover.
Connect the VCT actuator electrical connector.
Coat the spark plug thread with anti-seize grease, screw in the spark plugs and push in the spark plug connector until it engages.

Connect the VCT valve electrical connector.

Install the engine cover.

Install the ignition coil pack cover.
Attach the retaining clips.
Attach the coolant pipe to the retaining clip.

NOTE: Position the upper timing belt cover and the center timing belt.

Install the engine front mount bracket.

NOTE: Check the seating of the timing belt upper cover gasket and correct as necessary.

Attach the timing belt upper cover.

Install the accessory drive belt idler.

Install the engine front mount.

Attach the power steering pump fluid reservoir.

Attach the coolant expansion tank.

Remove the hydraulic jack and wooden block.
Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
Attach the lower timing belt cover.

NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts at this stage.

Install the coolant pump pulley retaining bolts.

Install the crankshaft pulley.

NOTE: Direction of travel on a used drive belt.

Install the accessory drive belt.
Rotate the accessory drive belt tensioner clockwise.
Install the accessory drive belt.

Tighten the bolts on the coolant pump pulley.

Attach the drive belt cover.

Lower the vehicle.
Connect the battery. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01.
NOTE: When the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the vehicle relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 16 km (10 miles) or more to relearn the strategy.

Standard finishing operations:
Connect the battery negative cable.
Install the battery cover.
Check fluid levels and correct if necessary.
Check the routing of vacuum hoses and cables and secure them with cable ties.

 

[95rooster]

sick burn :burn: