huge vapor lock issues...

[02Roush]

Ok check this out, any suggestions would be awesome. I have a eaton M90 (worst super ever) and I built up my motor with a 4.2L stroker, 11psi, a a1000 pump, 43psi, 1/2 inch fuel line as a feed and 3/8 inch fuel line back. Well in summary my engine gets upto about 190-215 degrees... (thinking because of the super) and it heats up my fuel lines which then boils my fuel, brings it back to the tank and vapor locks (u can FEEL the fuel boiling). I have a Mishimoto 3 core radiator with a 180 degree thermostat.

Any idea on how to stop this vapor lock before I destroy something? (like the other night at the track where it vapor locked as I was going down the track...)

 

[00WHTSC281]

Question 1: A 4.2l Stroker? You have a 4.6l.
Question 2: 11 psi on a M90 is gonna make some heat, what are your IATs.
Question 3: How much rwhp are you making? You dont need that much fuel. An a1000 will feed up to 1000HP!
Question 4: Did your tuner turn your fans on earlier since you lowered your thermostat from 192 to 180?
Question 5: Almost all engines run at 200 degrees, your fuel is not boiling. Are you sure your fuel system is correct since you have modified it?

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[02Roush]

Question 1: A 4.2l Stroker? You have a 4.6l.
Question 2: 11 psi on a M90 is gonna make some heat, what are your IATs.
Question 3: How much rwhp are you making? You dont need that much fuel. An a1000 will feed up to 1000HP!
Question 4: Did your tuner turn your fans on earlier since you lowered your thermostat from 192 to 180?
Question 5: Almost all engines run at 200 degrees, your fuel is not boiling. Are you sure your fuel system is correct since you have modified it?

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1. My bad I meant a 4.75L stroker.
2. Not sure what my IAT is, havent checked that yet.
3. right now about 380
4.yes the fan turns on at 170 (low speed) and 180 (high speed)
5. yes my fuel is boiling (i can feel and hear it) "cause of vapor lock" common in alot of vehicles (mainly non return types)

Heres a example: VIDEO

and yes my brother works at Wichita dyno building engines and putting high powered race cars together (not just mustangs).

 

[00WHTSC281]

I read up a little bit, and vapor lock is mostly a thing of the past caused by carburetors. In the few cases that remain it is usually caused by a MUCH LARGER THAN NEEDED electric fuel pump. It says the inline pump runs wide open all the time even when you dont need the fuel, dead heading it making it work harder and harder trying to pump when it cant. It eventually heats the gas and causes vapor lock. Hooking up a return line will relieve the pressure and fix the problem. Also check and make sure no fuel lines are near your exhaust. Good luck hope this helps.

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[00WHTSC281]

On a side note, a svt focus fuel pump is a direct.replacement for your stock intank pump and would be enough fuel for your HP needs. You could even do a gt superpump, if you want room for future improvements.

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[02Roush]

I read up a little bit, and vapor lock is mostly a thing of the past caused by carburetors. In the few cases that remain it is usually caused by a MUCH LARGER THAN NEEDED electric fuel pump. It says the inline pump runs wide open all the time even when you dont need the fuel, dead heading it making it work harder and harder trying to pump when it cant. It eventually heats the gas and causes vapor lock. Hooking up a return line will relieve the pressure and fix the problem. Also check and make sure no fuel lines are near your exhaust. Good luck hope this helps.

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i have a return line, also for the 60 lb injectors I need the 43 psi. The lines are ran where the old fuel line was (which is no where near the exhaust). Well hopefully I get that super soon so I can change it out with my Heaton (eaton)

 

[KLeech]

LOL this made for a good laugh. Sounds to me like your using a fire hose to drink out of a sippy cup. Can i ask why you have a built engine but your power level is that of a stock one? Unusual choice there. Also have you checked to see if coolant is actually circulating since your talking about high temperatures.

Also do you have a fuel pressure gauge? When it "vapor locks" does the pressure drop off?

 

[02Roush]

LOL this made for a good laugh. Sounds to me like your using a fire hose to drink out of a sippy cup. Can i ask why you have a built engine but your power level is that of a stock one? Unusual choice there. Also have you checked to see if coolant is actually circulating since your talking about high temperatures.

Also do you have a fuel pressure gauge? When it "vapor locks" does the pressure drop off?

Lol thanks for the "somewhat snide" remark. There is a reason I'm kicking "stock" (which would be around 200rwhp but yet I'm at 380 cough*). I don't have to give reasons though. But just for fun I'm going to call this my "break in period for my motor" It will soon be almost double that by next month.

Yes it is circulating.

and yes once it vapor locks I loose ALL pressure. I have to wait about 15-20 minutes for it to get pressure again

 

[00WHTSC281]

I really think the problem is the a1000 in a returnless system. I could be wrong. If your brother has,lift access, change to a svt pump which is enough fuel for now and under 200 bucks. If it fixes your problem then now you know. Better.to spend a couple of hours and 200 bucks, rather than risk blowing up a nice motor.

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[02Roush]

1/2 inch fuel line as a feed and 3/8 inch fuel line back.

I really think the problem is the a1000 in a returnless system. I could be wrong. If your brother has,lift access, change to a svt pump which is enough fuel for now and under 200 bucks. If it fixes your problem then now you know. Better.to spend a couple of hours and 200 bucks, rather than risk blowing up a nice motor.

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It is a return system now.

 

[00WHTSC281]

I just cant see anything other than being close to the exhaust causing the problem. That or the large in line pump. Nothing else should get hot enough to cause a problem. The M90, will raise your IATs but your talking 160 to 180. Even a 220 degree running temp would not be an issue. Good luck, im out of guesses.

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[02Roush]

I just cant see anything other than being close to the exhaust causing the problem. That or the large in line pump. Nothing else should get hot enough to cause a problem. The M90, will raise your IATs but your talking 160 to 180. Even a 220 degree running temp would not be an issue. Good luck, im out of guesses.

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Im pretty sure the fuel rails are literally soaking up the heat from the intake which is soaking up heat from the super acting as a giant heat sink

 

[00WHTSC281]

I run a M90 also. I only run 7.5/8psi. Even with a better intercooler, heat exchanger, and supertank, my IATs will hit 150. On the dyno today in 90 plus heat, my car heat soaked, it put down 330/350. If the shop temp was cooler and I had time to let the car cool off I think I would have put down 350/370. As you see my set up is similar to yours and in the ball park of your power level. Let me know when you figure it out, im interested.

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[02Roush]

I run a M90 also. I only run 7.5/8psi. Even with a better intercooler, heat exchanger, and supertank, my IATs will hit 150. On the dyno today in 90 plus heat, my car heat soaked, it put down 330/350. If the shop temp was cooler and I had time to let the car cool off I think I would have put down 350/370. As you see my set up is similar to yours and in the ball park of your power level. Let me know when you figure it out, im interested.

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one thing that I definatly recommend is the Killer chiller (for the m90), its a aftermarket part that uses ur air conditioning to cool the water for the super (preventing heat soak) and lowering IAT, they run about 600 bucks but I'd be willing to sell mine for about 400 (only on the car for a month but no need for it now). Before I "heavily modified" my motor the stock one made 354/390

 

[00WHTSC281]

Interesting. How much of a pain in the ass is it to install? So do you run your air conditioner all the time to get it to work? As far as power goes, I guess it must add more than the drag caused by running the compressor?

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[02Roush]

Interesting. How much of a pain in the ass is it to install? So do you run your air conditioner all the time to get it to work? As far as power goes, I guess it must add more than the drag caused by running the compressor?

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well u just have to cut a hole in your "bumper" like this:

What you do is you use the a/c to cool down the water, then turn it off and the water will stay cool (for a while). or you can keep it on and it'll cool all the time. What I did was I went to the track, turn it on, cooled the water down, turned it off, raced, at the end of the race turned it on while driving to get the time slip, parked it and turned it off. Let the car cool for a little while, repeat.

Makes it more efficient (cooler air) drops the water temps "down to" 65 degrees.


To answer the drag question: yes, only when the compressor ran