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<blockquote data-quote="tt335ci03cobra" data-source="post: 15602783" data-attributes="member: 68944"><p>If the cost isn't too excessive, and you have a trustworthy engine builder or are able to do it uourself, springing for a stronger rod is a great idea for peace of mind.</p><p></p><p>The biggest concerns would still be the overall efficiency of the powertrain. It's far easier to find the limits of any rod, piston, or crank if there is too much heat, back pressure, play in the timing geartrain, etc.</p><p></p><p>Assuming the oil, cooling, and fuel systems are healthy for the task, the rods won't be a total concern unless you are spinning north of 6500 and into 7500rpm while running hot burning fuels like pump gas. </p><p></p><p>That all said, I rarely run 1000whp, but opted for Oliver rods... I have an overkill theory. Build it once, build it to last. A tear down/new engine is much pricier than a refresh.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tt335ci03cobra, post: 15602783, member: 68944"] If the cost isn't too excessive, and you have a trustworthy engine builder or are able to do it uourself, springing for a stronger rod is a great idea for peace of mind. The biggest concerns would still be the overall efficiency of the powertrain. It's far easier to find the limits of any rod, piston, or crank if there is too much heat, back pressure, play in the timing geartrain, etc. Assuming the oil, cooling, and fuel systems are healthy for the task, the rods won't be a total concern unless you are spinning north of 6500 and into 7500rpm while running hot burning fuels like pump gas. That all said, I rarely run 1000whp, but opted for Oliver rods... I have an overkill theory. Build it once, build it to last. A tear down/new engine is much pricier than a refresh. [/QUOTE]
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