How To Delete The AC Compressor (W/O a Delete Pulley)

NOVA98Cobra

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So I know a lot of guy out there delete there AC for one reason or another. For me it never worked to begin with and I got use to driving around in the heat with no AC so I wanted to delete it. Once I decided to delete It the easiest option was to buy a delete pulley that bolts to the stock location and retains the stock serpentine belt routing. The delete pulleys out there are stupidly over priced and your motor is still spinning an added dead pulley for no reason. I opted for option two: Delete the entire AC system and run a different serpentine belt size and routing. This option really cleans up the front of the motor and keeps things that aren't being used off the car. This thread will not dive into how to delete the whole system step by step, but It will show how to reroute the belt, and what size to use. It took me four guesses and a lot of money trying to use a rope to size it up so I hope my work saves someone else time and aggravation.

To start with here is the stock routing location for 96-98 mustang cobras

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Here is a diagram of what it will look like after deleting the AC compressor completely

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Now before you try to rout it you will need a totally different size serpentine belt. It is a much shorter path now. Every company codes the package differently but essentially what you need is a six ribbed belt that is 790 cm long

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Here are some pics of the new routing on my car. Notice that now the belt goes ribbed side down over the idler and back up to the alternator pulley. The other major difference is that the tensioner provides upward force in a different direction. The routing around the alternator, power steering pump, water pump, and crank remain the same.

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NOVA98Cobra

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exactly how I did it a year and half ago.

Glad to know its still holding up for you :beer: I'm about to track it for the first time like this so I was crossing my fingers it would hold up, but the belt size seems perfect and It's real tight. This does make the stock safety retaining plate useless though sense the belt goes around where it bolts
 

9CobraVert8

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Would the idler pulley being a smooth face as opposed to ribbed be an issue down the line? I mean because now the ribbed section of the belt is now riding on the idler, not the smooth backside of it.
 

Helomech74

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Would the idler pulley being a smooth face as opposed to ribbed be an issue down the line? I mean because now the ribbed section of the belt is now riding on the idler, not the smooth backside of it.

It's not an issue at all. I had an old Honda that ran that way from the factory, but if a person didn't like it they could always source a ribbed idler pulley.
 

NOVA98Cobra

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It's all about surface area. Having the ribbed side touch means a little less surface area touching the pulley but its plenty to keep it planted
 

riored97

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ok for anyone looking to do this the correct belt length is 78". part numbers are 780k6 or k060780. i would also advise that you slightly massage the mounting point for the tensioner right below the idler pulley were the belt now runs through for extra clearance.
 
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zwade

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Alright so I deleted my ac today. Both belts listed above did not work for my 97 cobra. I ended up using a 79.5” oc, part number K060790, fit perfect. Only issue i had was that it was rubbing on the backside of the idler pulley (since the grooved part goes around the backside now with the compressor gone). I used a chisel and drimmel to file down the aluminum on the tensioner mounting bracket. Pics are attached. Btw this was extremely easy, I was worried it would be hard but it was not


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