How did you mount your line lock switch?

[Stripe Delete]

Want an easy but functional way to mount my switch. Please give me some ideas.
Going with the SLP piece instead of Granatelli just because it looks simpler to install. Any negs about the SLP kit?

Please share any ideas or experiences or rumors on the kits or the installs.

THANKS!:beer:

 

[MD03SVT]

I have used the SLP kit on my last 6 stangs and they work fine,in my GT500 I used a SOS cup-holder switch plate for my switches.

 

[Stripe Delete]

I have used the SLP kit on my last 6 stangs and they work fine,in my GT500 I used a SOS cup-holder switch plate for my switches.

Have you had any issues with the solenoid leaking on any of the SLP kits you have owned? Thanks
And great new 1/4 mile time BTW and I love your new blue/tungsten color choice.
Glad you are back.:beer:

 

[Stripe Delete]

Bump: for me


My SLP kit just showed up. Looks like a pretty basic install but still looking for interior (hidden or mostly) spots to mount the switch. Any help apprec.

 

[MD03SVT]

Never had any problems myself nor anyone that I know with this kit.Thanks

 

[manOwar]

Bump: for me


My SLP kit just showed up. Looks like a pretty basic install but still looking for interior (hidden or mostly) spots to mount the switch. Any help apprec.

Did you see how mine was done?

 

[whitetrash1]

my kit leaks but no from the solinoid

 

[69b302]

I have and installed the SLP line locks. I purchased one of the early kits, that was supposed to work for the GT500, but the pre-bent lines were incorrect. I have since heard the kit was updated with the correct pre-bent lines. Anyways, instead of replacing all the line between the MC and the ABS block, all I did reposition the front brake line at the ABS block to connect directly to the solenoid, I then made the the line to connect the output of the solenoid to the ABS block, kinda of C shaped line. The lines between the ABS and MC were impossible to find with the correct bubbled flared ends, but were everywhere with the more inverted flare, so we had to cut and flare the piece we made. The solenoid is mounted foward of the ABS block, and almost under the radiator support, very hard to see. I ran the switch into the console, and used the small cover plate inside the console compartment to drill the hole. To extend to the switch, I used wire that was coiled, like a phone cord to a handheld switch to turn on/off. I have had no leaks or issues, and the system has worked perfectly. I have heard of people using the DC power oulet or horn switch to avoid running some of the wiring. Also cap or plug the brake fittings instead of letting the system drain, you can avoid most of the air/bleeding issues.

 

[Stripe Delete]

Did you see how mine was done?

Will prob be using your way. :beer: Where can you get the button?

 

[Stripe Delete]

I have and installed the SLP line locks. I purchased one of the early kits, that was supposed to work for the GT500, but the pre-bent lines were incorrect. I have since heard the kit was updated with the correct pre-bent lines. Anyways, instead of replacing all the line between the MC and the ABS block, all I did reposition the front brake line at the ABS block to connect directly to the solenoid, I then made the the line to connect the output of the solenoid to the ABS block, kinda of C shaped line. The lines between the ABS and MC were impossible to find with the correct bubbled flared ends, but were everywhere with the more inverted flare, so we had to cut and flare the piece we made. The solenoid is mounted foward of the ABS block, and almost under the radiator support, very hard to see. I ran the switch into the console, and used the small cover plate inside the console compartment to drill the hole. To extend to the switch, I used wire that was coiled, like a phone cord to a handheld switch to turn on/off. I have had no leaks or issues, and the system has worked perfectly. I have heard of people using the DC power oulet or horn switch to avoid running some of the wiring. Also cap or plug the brake fittings instead of letting the system drain, you can avoid most of the air/bleeding issues.

Thanks.
My kit sure looks like its for a GT. Hope lines are the new ones.:bored:

 

[ZOMBEAST]

Thanks.
My kit sure looks like its for a GT. Hope lines are the new ones.:bored:

How did you make out on this? I'm looking for an easy bolt in unit.

 

[Stripe Delete]

How did you make out on this? I'm looking for an easy bolt in unit.

Still have not installed but thats going to happen this week. Im just going to mount switch on a curly cord that I can simply stuff between the seat and center console when not in use.
Ill reply when I get it in.:beer:

 

[Stripe Delete]

Heres some shots of my switch. Excuse the blurry photos but you should be able to get the idea.

Also got my guy to wire my fan and intercooler pump on one nice trick switch so I wont have to fool with my jerry rigged jumper switch anymore. Amazing how quick it cools the blower coolant now. I really see no need for any extra electric fans mounted to the heat exchanger with this mod at all. :dancenana:

:beer:

 

[ZOMBEAST]

Heres some shots of my switch. Excuse the blurry photos but you should be able to get the idea.

Also got my guy to wire my fan and intercooler pump on one nice trick switch so I wont have to fool with my jerry rigged jumper switch anymore. Amazing how quick it cools the blower coolant now. I really see no need for any extra electric fans mounted to the heat exchanger with this mod at all. :dancenana:

:beer:

Where did you get the cable and switch? Is that a Push and hold type switch?

Mike

 

[Stripe Delete]

Yes its a push and hold switch from a local auto parts store. Local stereo shop had the wire.
Works great with no issues and my rear rotors like me now. Destroyed my stockers prior to install.

 

[ZOMBEAST]

Yes its a push and hold switch from a local auto parts store. Local stereo shop had the wire.
Works great with no issues and my rear rotors like me now. Destroyed my stockers prior to install.

Thanks for the info!

Mike