Home port of an M122: Planning

[RedVenom48]

Im getting some plans ready for a week from Saturday when I plan on porting my M122 Supercharger. Ive got my extended length die grinder and Tungsten Carbide bit. Picking up some supercharger oil sometime this coming week.

Car setup: M122, 2.5 upper only, JLT 123mm, Whipple standard oval port TB, VMP S/C heavy duty tensioner, BPS idler bracket w/ 90mm pulley, NGK plugs, WOT Box, Lethal O/R H pipe, McLeod RXT, MGW Gen 2, Alum Driveshaft, full BMR rod end drag set up, Viking DA shocks and springs, Ford racing 4.10 rear gears. Tuned by Lund Racing. May or may not install my headers before heading to the strip in Phoenix for the first time.

Goals: 600+ RWHP and Torque or breaking into the high 10's. Prefer getting into the 10's Fuel will be approx 93 octane (100 VP race gas and Chevron 91 mixed to 93)

Ive researched a few patterns of opened up supercharger ports that Ill want to cut. Posi Ported M122s seem to have a very nice but simple opening at the rear of the discharge port:

I hear nothing but awesome reviews of Posi port M122s. BJ from VMP went into the 10s with his Posi, 2.6 upper, 10% lower (same as just a 2.5" upper) intake, TB and 4,10s like I just installed in my car. Im sure hes a better driver than me for sure, but that tells me the potential is definitely there.

MRL Seems to have taken theirs a step further buy adding a small but separate port further back like so:

One other port job by a company called Joker Performance is a bit more extreme in the lower port but havent joined it with the main port. This isnt an M122, but similar to what they would do:

Stiegmeier does a much more intricate design, but the concept remains the same. Not an M122 but for visual reference:

With so many people who have had Posi ports, Im leaning heavily toward his simple opening style, perhaps a bit more open like the MRL style. I had been toying with the idea of removing the material from the port to the silencer ports. Probably would make the M122 SCREAM, but Im worried it may make the port worse than leaving it alone if I did that.

Any and ALL tips, hints etc would be greatly appreciated!

What kind of locktite do I need for the case seal?

 

[RedVenom48]

Oh and a video of the BPS car when it was just on the ported M122.

And one of BJ going into the 10s on his ported M122 as well:

 

[merkyworks]

I was going to port my M122 but then I talked myself out of it and decided on getting a TVS. However I did a lot of research into what others have done porting wise. Below are comparison pictures of stock Vs ported. Added the red arrows to areas I was going to pay attention to when I was thinking of porting, hope this helps.

 

[RedVenom48]

merkyworks, thank you SO much for posting those inlet shots! makes it very clear what I need to spend my time on. It looks like the M122 is a little easier to port than the old M112.

lol, my shit's going to look so haggard and rough... but its not a beauty contest. Just has to flow better!

 

[enormous]

Porting my M122 was very rewarding, the above photos are very helpful to visually describe what work needs to be done to improve airflow into, over, and out of the rotors.

Hi temp gasket seal will take care of your case seal needs and torque the snout in two steps, first 15 ft pounds and finish with 25 ft pounds in an even pattern.

 

[Joes 2003 SVT]

I plan to go to a ported blower also. With that and a better flowing throttle body and a good tune hopefully I will be near the 600 mark.

 

[05roush0090]

Resurrecting an old thread but what tools are needed for porting and smoothing? Thanks in advance guys.

 

[StrayBullitt]

@lexustech48

Did you ever get around to doing this ?

I expect better things from you than to just let a thread like this die !

 

[blowbye]

600+ is very achievable... I really enjoyed my car with its ported eaton setup.

 

[Joes 2003 SVT]

With a port job, a good flowing throttle body, 10% lower I'm thinking 610-620 rwhp is possible?

 

[blowbye]

 

[Joes 2003 SVT]

View attachment 1482998

Awesome numbers!

 

[RedVenom48]

@StrayBullitt Lol, I certainly didnt mean to let anyone down! Even the notification for being tagged here got missed by me. Apologies all around.

Its been since last summer since I ported the blower. In short, the butt dyno felt a difference. With a mono blade and an Off Road H pipe, the car absolutely moves out a lot better. Freeway pulls felt strong and from a dig it blows the tires off unless you have slicks on.

Actually porting the bastard... that was an experience. It was such a messy involved process, I didnt take my phone out for pics. Aluminum EVERYWHERE. For that Im very sorry! Ill do my best to describe my very VERY crude and ugly home porting experience. This wont win awards, but it unlocks some performance if youre willing to put some elbow grease and an afternoon in the garage to it.

This wont get close to what a TVS will do at all, but if you like tinkering and have free time on your hands its a nice gain for your time.

First, remove the blower and drain the super charger oil. Remove all the bolts and separate the snout and rotor pack from the case. Set them aside.

After removing the rotor snout and the rotor pack itself (the oil smells disgusting) I found that the M122 already has the upgraded carbon fiber coupler. At least, my 2011 blower did. Check it for any wear, cracks etc. The pins should also get a once over too. Recommend to replace it if its the green or white nylon coupler.

Now its time to cut! Youll need a Carbide non-ferrous specific cutting tool like this:

https://www.google.com/search?q=Champion+Cutting+Tool+SC3NF&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1

To seal the blower case back up, Locktite makes a killer sealer: Loctite 510. Heat AND pressure rated:

https://www.google.com/search?num=3....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..1.1.152.0...0.1js1jX5guAI

A straight die grinder with 3" extension:

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/grinders/air-die-grinder-with-3-inch-extension-99698.html

It got the job done.... but its nothing to write home about. The Carbide burr really eats through the aluminum. Make DAMN sure to wear glasses and have hearing protection.

Some medium sand paper will come in handy after cutting the output port.

NOTE: TAPE OVER THE CASE BEARINGS. Painters tape, cement, hopes and dreams. ANYTHING. You do not want any shavings in there, as the bearings arent really user serviceable. Also, brake cleaner can really mess up the bearings too. Painters tape works well. ALWAYS keep an eye out for them to make sure they are covered.

ALSO TAPE OVER THE BYPASS VALVE!!!

I started off with the VMP high flow inlet elbow. loosely mounting it, I used a sharpie to trace an outline of the excess material that needed to come off.

Take your time and do small sections at a time. Continue to mount up the elbow to see where youre at and that youre making that transition as smooth as possible. All cuts made on the blower case, not the elbow.

Once that was done, I moved on to the drivers side inlet radius leading to the ramp that feeds the drivers rotor. I started taking off aluminum, small sections at a time. The goal is to open up flow to the feed ramps but not make the case too thin. There is a lot of aluminum there, but if you go too thin you could compromise the case strength. I also took material off the ramps themselves. Enough that I could tell the difference.

On to the passenger side inlet radius and passenger feed ramp. Same concept as before, open up the radius to feed the ramp as well as opening up the ramp. You can remove a little aluminum on the bearing towers as well, but dont get too crazy. They are the only thing holding the rotors in the back of the case!

IF you have a lot of patience, you can work some aluminum off the top of the bearing tower too. A steady hand can also take some material off the upper rotor inlet. I elected not to, as I was constrained by time. Making the outer radius as smooth as possible is the goal, including smoothing out the EGR hump. Its all time and patience at this point. Cut until youre satisfied.

As for the outlet port, I followed the Posi pattern and opened an 1.5"x1" port at the V part of the port. Its super thick, but take your time and you can route out the material.

Once youre happy with the port, shake as much aluminum out as you can. SAFETY GLASSES will save your eyes, but you should have em on the whole time!!!! Some compressed air can help get the rest out. Obviously you want to make dame sure all the shavings are out.

Take the sandpaper and smooth out all the edges that are near the rotor pack. Outlet port and feed ramps especially.

Clean the mounting surfaces of the rotor pack, snout and case. Wire brush and brake cleaner work well. Remove the tape over case bearings. Dry fit the rotor pack and verify that there is no scraping or interference with the case as the rotors spin. If there is, track it down and keep sanding.

Sanding bits wont work as the aluminum will clog them up. Slow, methodical sanding with sandpaper works best here.

Once youre satisfied with port job, everything is clean, nothing scrapes when you spin the rotors and everything is CLEAN, apply the Loctite sealer to the rotor pack flange and install. Make sure its located properly in the case, and the rotors spin smoothly and freely. Next, make sure the coupler and pins are in. Apply sealer to the snout, align the pins and install. Torque all bolts to the case at 21-25 ft-lbs. Give a good twist of the snout hub and verify the rotors turn freely. If they do, let it sit for a good 2 days. Yes.. DAYS.

Once the sealer is dry after 2 days and ONLY after its dry, add supercharger oil through the fill port. Add till it leaks out when the blower is sitting flat. Let it trickle then install the fill plug.

GM Supercharger oil is super cheap compared to the Motorcraft oil and its LITERALLY the same oil. 2 bottles on hand, fill until it trickles.

After that, install and let her rip!

Any questions PM me. Hope this helps! It typically doesnt look as good as the professional porters, but all this costs is your time and patience.