I'm changing to Goodrich stainless brake lines. I thought it would be a good time to upgrade brake fluid as well. Any ideas? Many thanks! RGR
High performance brake fluid input?
- Thread starter Bobrammer
- Start date
ATE blue
http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
There is better stuff, but for the $$$ -- it's at the right break-point for me/most.
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Brake Fluid Comparison.htm
btw, the blue & yellow have the same characteristics bar color.
You can alternate between the two on subsequent brake fluid flushed to ensure that you've completely flushed the system. :thumbsup:
http://www.raceshopper.com/ate_brake_fluid.shtml
There is better stuff, but for the $$$ -- it's at the right break-point for me/most.
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Brake Fluid Comparison.htm
btw, the blue & yellow have the same characteristics bar color.
You can alternate between the two on subsequent brake fluid flushed to ensure that you've completely flushed the system. :thumbsup:
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the ford high performance brake fluid is fine.
if you are getting fluid fade with your cooling ducts hooked up and the correct pad compound, then and only then would i bother upgrading to castrol srf or motul 600 or the aforementioned ate.
if you are getting fluid fade with your cooling ducts hooked up and the correct pad compound, then and only then would i bother upgrading to castrol srf or motul 600 or the aforementioned ate.
ttt
Ford brake fluid is one of the highest rated brake fluids available.
Hard to believe I know... but true none the less
Hard to believe I know... but true none the less
I've bought in to the Ford brake fluid as well, the syn. stuff has a little higher boiling point for a lot higher price.
I'd go with the Ford stuff, boiling point is 550 degrees, and the stuff costs $3.54/12oz from Ford.
Just change the fluid frequently, I installed Speedbleeders, a one way bleeder, in mine.
Buy small bottles and only open what you need, leave the sealed bottles on the shelf, throw away any half bottles.
(derail coming)
The speedbleeders that were spec'd for mine were SB1010S both F&R. The fronts went in fine, the rears didn't feel as positive, there's been some discussion about a different part number being better for them. I wrapped them with teflon tape and spent the weekend at VIR, they were fine.
I'm following another brake thread now, I'd like to upgrade rotors, maybe calipers soon as Summit Point is coming up.
DOT 4 is supposed to have a higher boiling point, and DOT 5 is something else entirely. (Here's something I saw on converting to DOT 5 http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/dot5.htm)
I've also heard (but can't and hopefully won't) be able to verify that getting air into an ABS system is a pain to fix.
<<If you've installed one way bleeders>>
The Ford BF bottles neck balances niceley in the master cylinders resevoir so that you don't have to fill the thing up constantly while flushing. While pushing on the brakes (with the speedbleeder open) just listen for the bubbles entering the inverted bottle, when they stop, so should you. Replace. Start away from the MC with the RR; LR, RF, and LF last.
I'd go with the Ford stuff, boiling point is 550 degrees, and the stuff costs $3.54/12oz from Ford.
Just change the fluid frequently, I installed Speedbleeders, a one way bleeder, in mine.
Buy small bottles and only open what you need, leave the sealed bottles on the shelf, throw away any half bottles.
(derail coming)
The speedbleeders that were spec'd for mine were SB1010S both F&R. The fronts went in fine, the rears didn't feel as positive, there's been some discussion about a different part number being better for them. I wrapped them with teflon tape and spent the weekend at VIR, they were fine.
I'm following another brake thread now, I'd like to upgrade rotors, maybe calipers soon as Summit Point is coming up.
DOT 4 is supposed to have a higher boiling point, and DOT 5 is something else entirely. (Here's something I saw on converting to DOT 5 http://www.type2.com/library/brakes/dot5.htm)
I've also heard (but can't and hopefully won't) be able to verify that getting air into an ABS system is a pain to fix.
<<If you've installed one way bleeders>>
The Ford BF bottles neck balances niceley in the master cylinders resevoir so that you don't have to fill the thing up constantly while flushing. While pushing on the brakes (with the speedbleeder open) just listen for the bubbles entering the inverted bottle, when they stop, so should you. Replace. Start away from the MC with the RR; LR, RF, and LF last.
:thumbsup:
Most people use the Ford HP stuff.
Ford HP fluid here - I was using the brakes hard enough to destroy a set of Porterfield pads in one day - the fluid was fine. If you feel like spending, Castrol SRF is about the best thing going, but you don't need it, and there is no reason to spend the $80 per quart that it sells for - at least not on this car.
ATE Super Blue works fine for me.
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