High HP A6 guys chime in..

03 SeRpEnT

The Feeling Hurter
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So not sure if this is a dumb question/topic but I'm looking for some tips on making this A6 more predictable. This is my first auto in forever and I'm running into the upshift/ bog/downshift scenario on most launches killing my runs. Leaving from D the car is a monster, attempts to hook till boost comes in then blows slicks away at top of first and then upshifts to 2nd still spinning, I lift to keep the car straight then it upshifts again to 3rd, then once planted it attempts to push through 3rd then realizes its bogging then downshifts to 2nd at 6-7k rpm then it sticks and is a rocket. This cant be good on parts I would imagine. I've tried 1-2-3-D pedaling through 1-2 but to me it feels like that doesn't allow the converter to flash like its supposed to, like it can in normal D mode. Maybe some guys with extensive knowledge on these trans can explain why. I love the car and when it hooks its insane, just frustrating from a dig when I lift to keep it on the road, even on a 28x11.5 slick heated up. Maybe I'm just being too optimistic to hook 750+ on the street even with big and littles...
 

corepwn

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You're likely being too optimistic trying to hook that on an unprepped street unless you have KILLER suspension dial-in.
With these (or most non manual valve body autos) transmissions if you lift it will upshift, nature of the beast.

Take it to a prepped track and see what she does, if it acts like you expect on that surface call BMR and see what Kelly can do to steer your suspension in the right direction for the street.
 

Sizeth3

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So not sure if this is a dumb question/topic but I'm looking for some tips on making this A6 more predictable. This is my first auto in forever and I'm running into the upshift/ bog/downshift scenario on most launches killing my runs. Leaving from D the car is a monster, attempts to hook till boost comes in then blows slicks away at top of first and then upshifts to 2nd still spinning, I lift to keep the car straight then it upshifts again to 3rd, then once planted it attempts to push through 3rd then realizes its bogging then downshifts to 2nd at 6-7k rpm then it sticks and is a rocket. This cant be good on parts I would imagine. I've tried 1-2-3-D pedaling through 1-2 but to me it feels like that doesn't allow the converter to flash like its supposed to, like it can in normal D mode. Maybe some guys with extensive knowledge on these trans can explain why. I love the car and when it hooks its insane, just frustrating from a dig when I lift to keep it on the road, even on a 28x11.5 slick heated up. Maybe I'm just being too optimistic to hook 750+ on the street even with big and littles...

The struggle is real ;).

I have a Stage 2 Procharged car, just got an AED tune on it. I have the same issue. I have found that on my MT ET street radials, I have to do a longer burnout now to compensate for the 1-2 shift, otherwise the car gets silly shifting 1-2, and pedaling causes an upshift to 3rd. I have tried minimal burnouts at the track, and have that issue, so I can't imagine on the street you will be able to do what you want without doing a burnout first.
 

03 SeRpEnT

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Yea I ofc expect to have to do a burnout, granted I haven't done an Australian Style pro mod burnout on the street for obv reasons but, I was just curious why even after a small heat up if there was any tips other than staying in it and not lifting with these A6 cars. Also in 11-12 models no paddle shifters make it somewhat difficult to find a sweet spot for any roll race over 50. Leave it in D and it has to downshift 3-4 gears from 6th to take off, shit makes me worry about the internals at my power level doing that lol.
 

Sizeth3

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Yea I ofc expect to have to do a burnout, granted I haven't done an Australian Style pro mod burnout on the street for obv reasons but, I was just curious why even after a small heat up if there was any tips other than staying in it and not lifting with these A6 cars. Also in 11-12 models no paddle shifters make it somewhat difficult to find a sweet spot for any roll race over 50. Leave it in D and it has to downshift 3-4 gears from 6th to take off, shit makes me worry about the internals at my power level doing that lol.

Well on a prepped track, granted I am on drag radials on 18's, and no slicks, the difference of a long burnout in 2nd, vs a short burnout in 1st, is my car wanting to swap ends on the 1-2 shift, vs staying planted with a scratch of the tires.
 

03 SeRpEnT

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Yea maybe the length of my burnout is what the issue is. Raceday is tomm and shes finally coming out so we will see what she can do with a good heat up.
 

466roller

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There are adjustments that came be made in the tune. It would be very time consuming and I'm not sure many tuners would be up for it. Your best bet it to dial in your suspension if you want to dig race on the street. FWIW I have stock suspension and 325/50/15 radial pro's. I would consider my tune a little "soft" down low but it hooks pretty good from a dig on the street.
 

03 SeRpEnT

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There are adjustments that came be made in the tune. It would be very time consuming and I'm not sure many tuners would be up for it. Your best bet it to dial in your suspension if you want to dig race on the street. FWIW I have stock suspension and 325/50/15 radial pro's. I would consider my tune a little "soft" down low but it hooks pretty good from a dig on the street.

Yea I don't think my tune is soft down low since I'm Centrifugal, plus I make an extra 100rw more than your sig says as well. I have BMR, Whiteline, Roush and Viking shocks as my suspension. The car has the parts, I'll probably start with adjusting the shocks if I don't see any success with a hearty burnout.

466 Roller, do you hook without heating them in the street or are you saying after a good heat up?
 

466roller

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If I've been riding around for a while they will hook pretty good with just a quick "clean up". Otherwise just a short burn out works. Some guys have luck launching in 2nd gear as well. IMO the stock suspension works well for most cars up to your power level with an auto. Being you've upgraded your suspension now you just have to tune it for your car. As far as the 2-3-2 shift it's because the trans shifts off wheel speed.
 

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