HEPL!! Low dyno numbers...

CrispyBacon

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Here is the original thread of where my issues started.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?996025-Nightmare-on-Willow-street


Anyway new motor is in and broken in.

Mod list
Steg ported blower with plate removed(see thread above)
2.76 upper and 2lb lower
accufab TB and inlet
metco idlers
canton tanks
carbon fiber intake(not sure brand maybe someone knows)
stock midpipe with bassani catback

made 389hp and 407tq

So air charge temps were like 160 which is stupid high but it was a 90 degree day
all other parameters looked spot on

We are suspecting an airflow issue like a partially plugged cat.

there is a ton of experience here I figure somebody might have a theory or 2
 

Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
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Just seeing the charge temps being at 160 makes a huge difference! ECU probably was commanding 15 degrees timing and the blower heatsoaked like crazy!
 

CrispyBacon

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Just seeing the charge temps being at 160 makes a huge difference! ECU probably was commanding 15 degrees timing and the blower heatsoaked like crazy!

I know charge temp was costing power but 80+ hp, seems unlikely. I was thinking both symptoms(down on power and high temps) were being caused by a common issue. that's why we are leaning toward cats

I can't get the dyno sheet to post but it made the exact same curve and about 10-15 more hp (on a 60 degree day not heat soaked) before the original motor let go at about 4500 rpm.
 
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stagedz

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could be bad compression.....is it making 16psi on the dyno or backing down?...how many miles on the cats? If a cat is plugged you would probably have quite a high torque figure so its probably not that.
 

2003cobra22

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View attachment 16283

Finally got it to upload. the run that shuts down is when it started knocking back in march, first pull and the car hadn't been driven an hour trip before hand

When I bought my car it had a unported 2.9 upper, fluidyne h/e, o/r X, intake, and accufab tb. Drove half hour to do a baseline dyno on a 100+ degree day in june car made 386rwhp 374rwtq. Point is heatsoak can do a number on making power. Try adding a KC or better heat exchanger :beer: GBR!!
 
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stangfreak

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When I bought my car it had a unported 2.9 upper, fluidyne h/e, o/r X, intake, and accufab tb. Drove half hour to do a baseline dyno on a 100+ degree day in june car made 386rwhp 374rwtq. Point is heatsoak can do a number on making power. Try adding a KC or better heat exchanger :beer: GBR!!

He has a ported eaton cobra with a solid pulley combo. that car should be making over 500rwhp. That is not heat soak on whats going on. I have owned my cobra for 11 years and had all eaton pulley combos and setups. I also live half hr away from the shop I go to and I did dyno my car in extreme heat. we also pull the car at full operating temps. No ice, no quick pulls, and mustang magic the people who built snake bite, have a low reading dyno. Lots of out of state guys get mad when they dyno there cars there. My car never lost that much power like yours on the dyn0.

Adding a bigger intercooler tank and or heat exchanger wont help. Your just adding more fluid which in turn means, you have more fluid to cool down. its almost counter productive. I fell for that trap myself 11 years ago. The kc is the best bet.
 

2003cobra22

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He has a ported eaton cobra with a solid pulley combo. that car should be making over 500rwhp. That is not heat soak on whats going on. I have owned my cobra for 11 years and had all eaton pulley combos and setups. I also live half hr away from the shop I go to and I did dyno my car in extreme heat. we also pull the car at full operating temps. No ice, no quick pulls, and mustang magic the people who built snake bite, have a low reading dyno. Lots of out of state guys get mad when they dyno there cars there. My car never lost that much power like yours on the dyn0.

Adding a bigger intercooler tank and or heat exchanger wont help. Your just adding more fluid which in turn means, you have more fluid to cool down. its almost counter productive. I fell for that trap myself 11 years ago. The kc is the best bet.

He stated his air charge temps were 160 thats heatsoak an aftermarket h/e will have better heat transfer abilities than the factory unit and your right a bigger IC res. means more fluid to cool down but also means more fluid to heat up. Not saying you won't get heat soak with a better h/e an IC res. but you will avoid it for longer. The KC is the best option to eliminate heatsoak.:beer:
 
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CrispyBacon

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He has a ported eaton cobra with a solid pulley combo. that car should be making over 500rwhp. That is not heat soak on whats going on. I have owned my cobra for 11 years and had all eaton pulley combos and setups. I also live half hr away from the shop I go to and I did dyno my car in extreme heat. we also pull the car at full operating temps. No ice, no quick pulls, and mustang magic the people who built snake bite, have a low reading dyno. Lots of out of state guys get mad when they dyno there cars there. My car never lost that much power like yours on the dyn0.

Adding a bigger intercooler tank and or heat exchanger wont help. Your just adding more fluid which in turn means, you have more fluid to cool down. its almost counter productive. I fell for that trap myself 11 years ago. The kc is the best bet.


This kind of reflects my thoughts. Yes charge temps are high but it doesn't account for the power loss. Like the graph above shows it was down on power back in march when it was cool. There has to be something holding this thing back. Plugged cats or intercooler could explain both the power defecate and the heat soak. Was just looking for other theories that could cause both
 

2003cobra22

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This kind of reflects my thoughts. Yes charge temps are high but it doesn't account for the power loss. Like the graph above shows it was down on power back in march when it was cool. There has to be something holding this thing back. Plugged cats or intercooler could explain both the power defecate and the heat soak. Was just looking for other theories that could cause both

Try a new set of mid pipes before you pull the blower to clean the intercooler
 

ZOSO

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Did you data log on the dyno? The ECU starts to pull timing at 130* IAT2's.
 

Bdubbs

u even lift bro?
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Did you data log on the dyno? The ECU starts to pull timing at 130* IAT2's.

THIS. But it all depends on what the tuner set's it at before the ecu pulls timing. A member on here said his tuner starts his at 120*. Mine is at 130* and by the time it hits 140* I'm down 2 degrees of timing.
 

CrispyBacon

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Well just an update. Stuck a catless pipe on it and it made 450/450. still seems low to me but way better, iat2 was still around 140. At this point my tuner believes that the port on the blower is subpar or the CAI is restrictive
 

zacmustang03

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Here is the original thread of where my issues started.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?996025-Nightmare-on-Willow-street


Anyway new motor is in and broken in.

Mod list
Steg ported blower with plate removed(see thread above)
2.76 upper and 2lb lower
accufab TB and inlet
metco idlers
canton tanks
carbon fiber intake(not sure brand maybe someone knows)
stock midpipe with bassani catback

made 389hp and 407tq

So air charge temps were like 160 which is stupid high but it was a 90 degree day
all other parameters looked spot on

We are suspecting an airflow issue like a partially plugged cat.

there is a ton of experience here I figure somebody might have a theory or 2
anything over 110 charge temp and your loosing around a hp per degree according to my tuner
 

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