help with last details of VMP 2.3 and fuel sytem install

[KBR]

Ok guys, after 100+ hours of research and talking to several respected owners/tuners/vendors, I'm looking for a little more advise/info to finish assembling parts, and details for installing VMP 2.3 and Fore L3 fuel system.

Thanks to everyone here. Without this forum I would have had no idea on the best ways to do this.(Special thanks...Malcolm, TRBOVNM, 04Sleeper)

Please chime in with any tips/advise...point to threads....anything I may be missing...etc

Many times using search I get error message when trying to find answers.

For fuel, I'll be getting Fore L3 kit w/Hobbs switch to stage pumps, FC3 controller triggered by wire from FDPM.

Plan is to run feed to regulator in passenger side fender, then feed the rear of each rail from regulator.

I know I've read somewhere in the threads what line and size "T" to use for boost reference/source for regulator and Hobb's switch, but was hoping someone could advise me here. Fore salesman said 3/16" nipple comes on Hobbs switch.

1. correct line to use? DOT air hose size?
2. what size "t" fittings? Size nipple for Hobbs switch?
3. best way to get signal/tap into FPDM to trigger 1st pump? Would like to not cut wires if possible. (i've seen photos somewhere)
4. best way(s) to mount regulator? What did you use for bracket?
5. Belt size and recommendations, stock lower, 3 x 100mm, 1 x 90mm, and 3.0 pulley?

I hope to get 2 tunes(pump93 and e85). For now the car will be on 93, but I want to be able to run e85 next season.

Build:
VMP 2.3 w/GT500 TB 3.0 pulley
80lb injectors
Fore L3 return fuel system w/staged Walbro F90000267 450 LPH E85 fuel pumps
SCT BA3000
JLT RAI
Gords HE
Metco double bearing idlers 100x3, 90x 1
Metco tensioner support plate
**car has OE headers, Magnaflow o/r X w/cats and Magnaflow cat back

 

[Bdubbs]

Looks like you have a nice mod list! At least your doing things right the first time! I had to drop my fuel tank a second time because I never thought I'd run e85. I can only give my advice on a couple things, because I'm basically running a Fore level 2 with stock fuel rails. I'm also running AEM 320E pumps that run "full time". No issues at all running it that way. And I'm at 21lbs of boost with headers.

As per the bracket for the regulator, I got my idea from seeing Malcolm's bracket. Just look for a piece of metal at a hardware store that you can bend in a vice. I found some that already had holes in them, so I don't think I had to drill.

You should be able to run a 75" belt, a 74.5" belt might be tough to get on. If you want to run a tighter belt, simply put the belt on, but leave the auxiliary idler pulley off! That's the one you should be running right next to the blower pulley. With the belt on, put a breaker bar on the belt tensioner and remove tension. Next slide/push the auxiliary idler into place with the breaker bar still removing tension. Once the pulley is in place you can remove the tension and then tighten the pulley down.

Below are a couple pictures of my fuel setup.

 

[bigmoose]

I used reinforced fuel line for my regulator reference. I don't remember the size but it fit the Barb on the regulator perfectly. It's not as small as some suggest.

I've datalogged my fuel pressure during transitions from/to WOT and it's perfectly steady.

 

[SVTdreamin04]

I ran a very small diameter stiff tube for my vacuum/boost reference line. I didn't use the barbed fitting that came on the regulator since it was 1/4" barbed. I bought a 3/16"barbed, 1/8"npt thread fitting at the local hardware store and got my hose adapters at auto zone in the emissions section of the store. The hose diameter I am using is the same as what comes with a boost gauge if that helps in any way.

I am not running A HOBBs switch or anything like that due to that just begging one other thing that could possibly fail.

My regulator is mounted in the fender well on a piece of 1" wide stainless flat stock. I'm not sure of thickness.

I've had no issues and my car has been deadhead on E85 since February.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Bdubbs]

I'm using hi temp silicone hose on all my vacuum lines. I believe it's 4mm.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[KBR]

Looks like you have a nice mod list! At least your doing things right the first time! I had to drop my fuel tank a second time because I never thought I'd run e85. I can only give my advice on a couple things, because I'm basically running a Fore level 2 with stock fuel rails. I'm also running AEM 320E pumps that run "full time". No issues at all running it that way. And I'm at 21lbs of boost with headers.

As per the bracket for the regulator, I got my idea from seeing Malcolm's bracket. Just look for a piece of metal at a hardware store that you can bend in a vice. I found some that already had holes in them, so I don't think I had to drill.

You should be able to run a 75" belt, a 74.5" belt might be tough to get on. If you want to run a tighter belt, simply put the belt on, but leave the auxiliary idler pulley off! That's the one you should be running right next to the blower pulley. With the belt on, put a breaker bar on the belt tensioner and remove tension. Next slide/push the auxiliary idler into place with the breaker bar still removing tension. Once the pulley is in place you can remove the tension and then tighten the pulley down.

Below are a couple pictures of my fuel setup.


View attachment 1526451

View attachment 1526452

View attachment 1526453

View attachment 1526454

View attachment 1526455

View attachment 1526456

thanks for the photos and taking the time to reply

 

[MG0h3]

Check out the how to archives in the terminator section.

Malcolm has a thread about how to wire for factory prime. Itll tell you what wires to use. I have some photos at the end showing mounting of the reg.

Sent from my SM-G950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[blownfox]

Check out the how to archives in the terminator section.

Malcolm has a thread about how to wire for factory prime. Itll tell you what wires to use. I have some photos at the end showing mounting of the reg.

Sent from my SM-G950U using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Malcolm also has it on his website. I dont remember if he notes it but you will need a relay between the FPDM and the fore controller.
Return style fuel system with OEM fuel pump activation

Fore also offer a plastic line for your Vac ref line to the regular.
1/4'' High Boost / Vacuum Tube, per foot


Sent from my SM-G920P using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[Bdubbs]

Malcolm also has it on his website. I dont remember if he notes it but you will need a relay between the FPDM and the fore controller.
Return style fuel system with OEM fuel pump activation

Fore also offer a plastic line for your Vac ref line to the regular.
1/4'' High Boost / Vacuum Tube, per foot


Sent from my SM-G920P using the svtperformance.com mobile app

I actually want to redo my vac line's using that stuff.

Sent from my Moto E (4) Plus using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[KBR]

Malcolm also has it on his website. I dont remember if he notes it but you will need a relay between the FPDM and the fore controller.
Return style fuel system with OEM fuel pump activation

Fore also offer a plastic line for your Vac ref line to the regular.
1/4'' High Boost / Vacuum Tube, per foot


Sent from my SM-G920P using the svtperformance.com mobile app

I was not aware you still needed a relay with FC3. One of the reasons I spent the extra $$$ was to avoid adding extra relay(s).
Someone just sent me this.

 

[KBR]

sorry for repeat posts...computer said server error, so I tried to post again several times

 

[MG0h3]

Not sure about that drawing/schematic.

I skipped the "controller" which is actually just a packaged set of relays. The whole purpose of a relay is because the current needed to run whatever can't go through the switch/trigger.

You need a heavy gauge wire from the battery back to the pumps. My car came with a BAP so it was there already and I just split it to run to both relays. Using the controller, it just goes into the + terminal.

 

[blownfox]

I was not aware you still needed a relay with FC3. One of the reasons I spent the extra $$$ was to avoid adding extra relay(s).
Someone just sent me this.

I understand what your saying about the extra relay but the FC3 controller was not design to prime the pumps the same what as the factory. If not your pumps will constantly run with key on.

 

[KBR]

I understand what your saying about the extra relay but the FC3 controller was not design to prime the pumps the same what as the factory. If not your pumps will constantly run with key on.

quote from thread by Malcolm??

"Return style fuel system with OEM fuel pump activation"

To keep the ECU in control of your pumps have your tuner adjust the tune for a return style fuel system and keep the FPDM (fuel pump driver module) in use. Use pins 3 and 10 to activate the relay(s) that will turn on your fuel pumps.

Pin 10 = BN/PK (normally fuel pump positive) Pin 3 = RD/BK (normally fuel pump negative)

Don’t just use pin 10 positive power to your relay and ground the relay to the chassis. That won’t work. You must use both pins 10 and 3 to trigger your relay.

 

[blownfox]

quote from thread by Malcolm??

"Return style fuel system with OEM fuel pump activation"

To keep the ECU in control of your pumps have your tuner adjust the tune for a return style fuel system and keep the FPDM (fuel pump driver module) in use. Use pins 3 and 10 to activate the relay(s) that will turn on your fuel pumps.

Pin 10 = BN/PK (normally fuel pump positive) Pin 3 = RD/BK (normally fuel pump negative)

Don’t just use pin 10 positive power to your relay and ground the relay to the chassis. That won’t work. You must use both pins 10 and 3 to trigger your relay.

Not sure I understand the question but that qoute is his instructions off of his website.

Sent from my SM-G920P using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[KBR]

Not sure I understand the question but that qoute is his instructions off of his website.

Sent from my SM-G920P using the svtperformance.com mobile app

Sorry I am still at work.....I believe you can use those wires to trigger pumps using FC3? I seem to have received conflicting info on wiring and if relay is needed doing it that way. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for replying.


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[MG0h3]

Ok I see why you would need the relay; the "controller" only has one port for the trigger. I used two $5 dollar 40amp relays so that wasn't an issue on mine.

 

[blownfox]

Sorry I am still at work.....I believe you can use those wires to trigger pumps using FC3? I seem to have received conflicting info on wiring and if relay is needed doing it that way. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for replying.


Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app

I gotcha, I had to install a relay in between the FPDM and the FC3. (like the diagram you attached). I dont have a good picture but attached what I have.

Sent from my SM-G920P using the svtperformance.com mobile app