Help Troubleshoot my '14 Shelby

[Grabber07']

Current Mods:

1) 2.39 Upper Pulley
2) 127mm JLT Carbon CAI
3) 65mm Twin Cobra Jet Throttle Body
4) MRT Off Road H-pipe
5) NGK TR6 plugs

Immediately after installing #'s 2 through 5 I noticed that my factory A/F digital gauge on my dash was stuck at 14.0. It would not move from that number no matter what the scenario with the gas pedal.

I datalogged while on a dyno and we noticed I was down on power in a big way. First pull was on the 93 octane tune from Lund Racing. Only put down 595rwhp. Second pull was on my 91 octane tune and pulled 611rwhp.

Dyno Graph shows the car is going Pig Rich due to Bank 1 O2 sensor not reading correctly as well as pulling 2 degrees of timing (bad gas). Gas here is not the best, need to run a few tanks of 93 or 101 octane through it so it can "relearn". Been running 91 straight gas, which is pretty crappy here.

On both the 93 and 91 tunes my A/F gauge is stuck at 14.0 for whats its worth.

Replaced the Bank 1 front O2 sensor this evening and still no change with the gauge.

EDIT: Ran DTC Codes (to be clear no Check Engine light has come on) and found P0135 (Heater Circuit, Bank 1 Sensor 1)

Running out of ideas and was wondering if anyone has run into this issue, or can lead me in the right direction.

 

[Myfast70]

Check the MAF & tube that it sits in to make sure it is all properly seated and in the proper direction. Check all of the JLT connections to verify that they are all sealed & secured.

 

[Grabber07']

Check the MAF & tube that it sits in to make sure it is all properly seated and in the proper direction. Check all of the JLT connections to verify that they are all sealed & secured.

Will do. I also checked DTC Codes (Not showing a check engine, but I checked anyway).

Showed code P0135 Heater Circuit Bank 1 sensor 1 (which is the O2 I changed)

 

[Grabber07']

Check the MAF & tube that it sits in to make sure it is all properly seated and in the proper direction. Check all of the JLT connections to verify that they are all sealed & secured.

Connections look good, pulled the MAF sensor to make sure its faced properly and it is.

Put the car back to the stock tune to see if it changed the gauge and it was still stuck at 14.0.

 

[2011 gtcs]

I would contact Van or Lund racing, he probably sent you a bad file, I had a similar probably with 08 GT500 when I got a tune from lund.

 

[Grabber07']

I would contact Van or Lund racing, he probably sent you a bad file, I had a similar probably with 08 GT500 when I got a tune from lund.

I put the car back to the stock tune and the A/F gauge remained the same at 14.0.

I uploaded both Lunds 91 tune and then 93 tune, but still the same result.

Been in contact with Van and Lund and consensus was to replace the O2 sensor, which has seemed to not fix the issue.

It has been mentioned that it could be the wireing harness, but not sure how that would have been affected or damaged as it wasnt touched. I didnt even unplug the O2 sensor during the H-pipe install, just unscrewed the sensor from the pipe and re-installed.

 

[Myfast70]

What are the plugs gapped to? Did you verify each individual plug? Check to make sure all of the coils are plugged in and nothing got pinched when putting the coil covers back on. Just for grins you can swap the stock plugs back in (wouldn't push any boost) drive it around to see if that solves the problem.

 

[bossman302]

help

If you twisted the wires taking the 02's out, you may have damaged the wires, they are not meant to be twisted when removed, 9 times out of 10 they will be ok, but it's that tenth time. May have to put her back stock and take to the dealer.

 

[sb03cobra]

It has been mentioned that it could be the wireing harness, but not sure how that would have been affected or damaged as it wasnt touched. I didnt even unplug the O2 sensor during the H-pipe install, just unscrewed the sensor from the pipe and re-installed.

If you didn't unplug the sensor to remove it, you may have damaged the wires by twisting them.

 

[Grabber07']

If you didn't unplug the sensor to remove it, you may have damaged the wires by twisting them.

This also could be true, although I was very careful in the removal and it doesnt take many turns to take an O2 sensor out.

Going to uninstall the JLT CAI and reinstall the factory CAI and see if that solves the issue. There may be a vacuum leak somewhere.

 

[Grabber07']

Just to start illiminating possibilities I un-installed the JLT CAI and re-installed my factory CAI and swapped the MAF sensor back into the factory tubing.

Reflashed my tune back to stock and still no change. Still stuck at 14.0 A/F on my dash.

Even with the car off and in accessory mode the gauge is still stuck at 14.0.

 

[2112]

Subscribing

 

[gr8snkbite]

try this...
It is very important that anyone who loads in a new calibration file, fuel pump, MAF Sensor or throttle body (no matter what TB) resets the "keep alive memory".. especially but not limitted to the 2010 -2011's

resetting "KAM" in these cars means first disconnecting the negative battery cable then turn on the head light switch. Do this for at least 20 minutes with the head lights turned on

(head lights on because the power that is stored in the PCM goes to the head lights)

Then turn head lights off after 20 minutes and reconnect negative cable. start car, do not touch gas pedal or turn steering wheel and make sure the A/C and heat is off and let the car idle for at least 2 minutes.. an erratic idle is not abnormal when doing this procedure seeing as how the car is searching for an idle.

After the car learns its idle it should be fine moving forward. Then you can/should turn on the AC for a min for the computer to adjust to that change and into gear (if automatic) Then take it out for normal average driving to complete the process and allow the proper time for the computer to go through it's adaptation (usually 50 or so miles)

 

[steeltoe]

try this...
It is very important that anyone who loads in a new calibration file, fuel pump, MAF Sensor or throttle body (no matter what TB) resets the "keep alive memory".. especially but not limitted to the 2010 -2011's

resetting "KAM" in these cars means first disconnecting the negative battery cable then turn on the head light switch. Do this for at least 20 minutes with the head lights turned on

(head lights on because the power that is stored in the PCM goes to the head lights)

Then turn head lights off after 20 minutes and reconnect negative cable. start car, do not touch gas pedal or turn steering wheel and make sure the A/C and heat is off and let the car idle for at least 2 minutes.. an erratic idle is not abnormal when doing this procedure seeing as how the car is searching for an idle.

After the car learns its idle it should be fine moving forward. Then you can/should turn on the AC for a min for the computer to adjust to that change and into gear (if automatic) Then take it out for normal average driving to complete the process and allow the proper time for the computer to go through it's adaptation (usually 50 or so miles)

As soon as load a tune it resets the KAM and readiness monitors.

 

[TORQJNKY]

The only thing I see this pointing to is the installation of the MRT H-Pipe and an O2 sensor. Do this, check to see that the O2 sensor is fully plugged in, plug snapped in. If you still have the problem, swap your front O2 sensors and see if the problem follows to bank 2. Make sure you unplug the sensor from the harness before removing so you don't twist the wires. Like others have said, you may just have just damaged it from twisting the wire in place.

 

[Grabber07']

The only thing I see this pointing to is the installation of the MRT H-Pipe and an O2 sensor. Do this, check to see that the O2 sensor is fully plugged in, plug snapped in. If you still have the problem, swap your front O2 sensors and see if the problem follows to bank 2. Make sure you unplug the sensor from the harness before removing so you don't twist the wires. Like others have said, you may just have just damaged it from twisting the wire in place.

O2 sensor is fully plugged and snapped in. I replaced the passenger O2 with a brand new on from Ford OEM yesterday with no change. So the harness may be the culprit

 

[Grabber07']

If I have to replace the O2 wiring harness, where would I find one and what would the install entail? I have limited access to the harness due to it being above the Transmission/behind the motor.....so I am dreading what that install is going to cost me.

Frustrated to say the least.

 

[sb03cobra]

If I have to replace the O2 wiring harness, where would I find one and what would the install entail? I have limited access to the harness due to it being above the Transmission/behind the motor.....so I am dreading what that install is going to cost me.

Frustrated to say the least.

The dealer would be the only option for a harness. Here is the wiring diagram for the O2's. I will look to see if I can find the harness info.

 

[2112]

^^^ So when guys suggest pulling the OEM Harness down instead of using the aftermarket O2 sensor extensions, they are referring to where the harness passes over the bell housing in the above posted picture?
.

 

[Devious_Snake]

I have a question for the OP

If you put her back to stock, have you datalogged her running stock? I ask because you keep referring back to the on board AFR gauge, what if that system itself is stuck and reading wrong?