Help - Passenger Side Header Gasket Exhaust Leak (How Hard to Fix?)

[awakened]

I recently bought an 03 Cobra Vert knowing that it had an exhaust leak. It has BBK long tube headers and a BBK catted X-Pipe. There were some really clear signs (black soot) that a couple of the connections on the BBK X-Pipe were leaking. I've fixed those by replacing the U-clamps with band clamps and tightening all the connections. This helped but I still heard a good leak. I just got around to testing the system with soapy water and pressurizing the exhaust with my shop vac. The X-Pipe connections are good but I still hear and feel a large leak coming from the top of the header. I could not spray the soapy water in there due to the limited space but I didn't need to. When I wedge my hand near there I can feel the air pouring out right around the tube connected to cylinder #3 (3rd one from front on passenger side). Even with a mirror it is difficult to see this part of the header due to how little space there is in that area.

My question is, how difficult is it to change the header gasket on the passenger side of the motor? I understand that you need to drop the K-member to install long tube headers but is that necessary once the header is in place and you just need to replace the gasket?

Would I be able to jack the motor up a little on that side to give me enough access to unbolt the header, slip in a new gasket, and tighten it down? I think that the header itself might prevent that since it is so close to the firewall but I thought I would check to see if anyone hear has tried that.

Any suggestions? If I need to drop the K-Member that sounds like a real pain to do.
What do you think a shop would charge to replace the gasket?

 

[hotcobra03]

I would 1st get a sethoscope..add a rubber hose to it..you can get around every thing..you can hear a leak in a bolt even..

I have bbk also.
Look for a crack where all 4 tube meet..I have a crack ..it leaks but you really can't hear it.. with tool. Loud as hell.

Doing gasket only.? Depends on last installer..

If used oem steel gasket only like I do..no problem

If they uses paper gasket that came with headers and used sealers. .no

In car..it's a pita but can be done..

Starter and engine mount will need to come out..

Bottom isn't that bad..the top..

I found you need to lift engine up as far as it will..

Caution..other engine mount must be able to move up..

Trans mount has to move up ..it's a glued block of rubber..it will twist and flex but it will also cause it to break..2 bolts and it's free..

Watch heater core hoses they will push on tube causing leak in core..not fun repair..

After engine is all the way up you can see heads of bolts which helps..being it's tight

 

[awakened]

In place of the stethoscope method I pressurized my exhaust system with air. I wrapped my shop vac tubing with a towel and wedged it into one tail pipe. I plugged the other tail pipe with a towel and then used the shop vac to blow air into the exhaust system. With a spray bottle of soapy water I checked each joint for leaks (bubbles). I like this method since the engine stays off and everything stays cool. The shop vac moves a lot of air so any leaks are easy to spot. The collector on the passenger header is good but when I put my hand up near the head I felt air blowing out. I can spray my soapy solution on the first two header tube flanges on that side and didn't see any bubbles so they are good. There is no good angle to get the solution on #3 and #4 but based on the direction of the flow of air coming out of there when I put my hand near there it is #3.
I ordered an OEM metal gasket for the passenger side and I would like to try to replace it but I want to get a feel for what I am getting myself into before I do.
Hotcobra03, If I understand you correctly, you are saying that if there is a paper gasket in there now I would definitely need to remove the K-member because I would need to remove the header and clean the surfaces before placing the new gasket correct?
I appreciate your hints about the heater core. I've replaced a fox body heater core and it is not something that I want to do again.

 

[roy_1031]

Good luck with the upcoming battle. And good call with the oem gasket, they're the best ones. Hotcobra pretty much got it spot on, the rest is just labor.

 

[hotcobra03]

I didn't need to remove k member. .

When I got mine..I was in a campground. .couldn't wait so did on dirt...

Bbk headers come in and out no problem..can't say for other brands..

Seen pics posted of k member off..makes it faster..I just seen it as the less I remove the easier..

 

[hotcobra03]

I had sat my car up on old rims..this gave room to work without jack stands in way..
They second as a step and great for saftey..

An engine brace or hoist from just above will help also..

I used tree branch and comealong...I did this also to remove engine for head work..

 

[awakened]

I used tree branch and comealong...I did this also to remove engine for head work..

That's some "just get it done" ingenuity right there!