What was wrong with a 6 piston brembo setup? I actually think its a better overall setup compared to the baer and wilwood.
Help me decide which Big brake to buy
- Thread starter red351wcobra
- Start date
What was wrong with a 6 piston brembo setup? I actually think its a better overall setup compared to the baer and wilwood.
Interesting, looks like I have more research to do.
Any one of the 3 should work to be honest. I would purchase based on pad/rotor availability, options, pricing.
It would suck ass to be locked into really expensive consumables.
Does AP racing not make anything for that car? They are generally the upgrade. Tons of groups have gone to AP racing setups so they could run a smaller wheel and get more pad options.
What tires are you running? It's crazy to me a DTC70 can't lock up the front tires.
It would suck ass to be locked into really expensive consumables.
Does AP racing not make anything for that car? They are generally the upgrade. Tons of groups have gone to AP racing setups so they could run a smaller wheel and get more pad options.
What tires are you running? It's crazy to me a DTC70 can't lock up the front tires.
I agree that all three will work great. To be honest I’m kinda leaning toward the Bear kit. Pads are cheap and plentiful, rotors are around $200 each for the outside ring.
AP raging makes some fantastic stuff but you also pay for that quality.
Im running 275/315 Toyo R888. As far as the DTC70s and not being able to lock up. My hydraboost system is working great. I don’t have any leaks at all. Don’t get me wrong, my car stops great and isn’t a slouch by any means. I would say I out break 75% of the field just because I know my car very well and I’m very comfortable in it. I just know there’s more on the table.
I have wondered if my power steering fluid is getting really hot and that’s causing some issues.
AP raging makes some fantastic stuff but you also pay for that quality.
Im running 275/315 Toyo R888. As far as the DTC70s and not being able to lock up. My hydraboost system is working great. I don’t have any leaks at all. Don’t get me wrong, my car stops great and isn’t a slouch by any means. I would say I out break 75% of the field just because I know my car very well and I’m very comfortable in it. I just know there’s more on the table.
I have wondered if my power steering fluid is getting really hot and that’s causing some issues.
I change the power steering fluid out once a year. And that’s only because I’ve dropped the k member several times. I run the factory ford stuff. But I’m going to change to Ansol.
Update:
I went ahead and purchased the Baer 6p 14" kit. While I had everything apart I pulled my stock cut springs out and installed some H&R Race springs. The factory Bilstein shock have 68K miles so it was time to replace them with Koni yellow adjustables. This should help the car handle a lot better.
I went ahead and purchased the Baer 6p 14" kit. While I had everything apart I pulled my stock cut springs out and installed some H&R Race springs. The factory Bilstein shock have 68K miles so it was time to replace them with Koni yellow adjustables. This should help the car handle a lot better.
Whats the easiest way to change it?
Pull the drivers front tire and there's two power steering lines going in to the cooler. The thick hose is the pressure line and the smaller 3/8 line is your return line. Pull the return line off the cooler and stick it into a container to capture the old fluid. All I did is crank the car and turn the wheel left and right a few times. I think it helps to push on the brake a few times since our cars are a hydo-boost system. All the fluid will get sucked from the res and run into your container. I ran another half quart thru the system to push any old fluid out. Hook your return line back up and fill your res. You will have to turn your wheels left and right to get the fluid circulating thru the system again. You might have some power steering pump noise for a few miles till all the air is bleed out of the system. Its really easy to do.
Is there one of those white nylon washers there on the return line?
No the return line is just a small 1/4 or 3/8 in hose with hose clamps on either end. The line that used the white nylon washer is the pressure line.
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Well i finally got the car finished (well for now). I went ahead with the Baer 6p plus calipers and the 14" two piece slotted rotors. I haven't been able to do any hard stops yet as i'm following Baer's brake seasoning procedure then brake bedding procedure. But all in all the pedal pressure is really firm and the DTC70 pads have tons of bite which I expected from previous experience. I will report back after my next track day which is in June. I went ahead and picked up a set of 18x9,18x10 SVE series 2 wheels to ensure I have plenty of clearance and 275/35/18, 315/30/18 Toyo R888 tires.
I did test fit my factory 17s and believe it or not but they did clear the big Baer calipers just barely. I wasn't comfortable with the caliper to wheel clearance. I could probably get half a business card between the top edges of the caliper and the inside of the barrel of the wheel. If someone wanted to grind a little on their beautiful calipers then it would work. I wish I took a picture of the stock wheel on. Ill get one when I take the wheels off the car next month to do a final brake bleed.
I did test fit my factory 17s and believe it or not but they did clear the big Baer calipers just barely. I wasn't comfortable with the caliper to wheel clearance. I could probably get half a business card between the top edges of the caliper and the inside of the barrel of the wheel. If someone wanted to grind a little on their beautiful calipers then it would work. I wish I took a picture of the stock wheel on. Ill get one when I take the wheels off the car next month to do a final brake bleed.
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