Help Installing Alternator from Adam at Nations Starter & Electric

[DiZzyBonne]

Just like many of you, the alternator on my 2008 GT500 went out. My car is mostly stock, save for Borla Stinger catbacks. Anyway, she barely has 25k miles on her, so I'm sure you can see my frustration. To top it off, she's my daily driver for now! I've been either walking to work or getting rides. Luckily, I work less than 2 miles away from home.

Anyway, after doing some research, I decided to buy my alternator from Adam at Nations Starter & Electric. However, instead of buying the model that most everybody purchsed for $700, which is the XP-270A, he said he had an XP-200A in the back for $500. He said they were the same thing, just different amperages. I asked him for help installing it, and he said it's literally a straight plug-and-play, the only thing I have to do is drill a larger hole (5/18) into the alternator's connection eyelet socket. Also, a little off topic, but the pulley size is different. I'm at work, so I don't remember if it's larger or smaller. But, how will that affect me when putting the belt back on? I've never worked with belts, so will my tensioner automatically adjust without me needing to do anything?

I removed the old alternator with the help of a friend, and installed the new one. This is where I'm stuck. Under the car, the connection that's supposed to hook up to the alternator is too short! Adam said there should be enough slack, but clearly I'm having troubles. I'm hoping that you guys can help me out. I really hope I don't have to replace the cable, because I have no idea what I'm doing when it comes to wiring.

Here's the old alternator, as you can see, the connection has a little elbow that extends it out, letting the cable connect to it with ease:

Here's the new alternator already installed, and the connection is further back. I circled my two connection problems:

I also tried unscrewing the wire from where it was being held in place, but that didn't give me any more slack. The only solution I can see is a new wire, but I'm really hoping it doesn't boil down to that. If that's the case, can anybody please point me in the right direction!

Thanks a lot!

 

[54First]

I had the same problem with cable length. I used a large crimp connector covered with heavy shrink tubing and added some cable. New connector and vinyl shield on the end and I was done. Been a couple of years now with no problems.

Steve

 

[fullboogie]

See if you can undo the electrical tape at that junction and get some slack. Then re-wrap it.

 

[DiZzyBonne]

I had the same problem with cable length. I used a large crimp connector covered with heavy shrink tubing and added some cable. New connector and vinyl shield on the end and I was done. Been a couple of years now with no problems.

Steve

Aside from changing my catback and mid pipe (on my last Mustang,) this alternator install is the most technical job I've done, so please bare with me lol. Did you remove the connector and the brown rubber boot, then added tubing, and reattach it? Is there any way you could maybe take a picture, or just give me a small little write up?

See if you can undo the electrical tape at that junction and get some slack. Then re-wrap it.

Do you think that there will be slack under it, or are you asking me to undo it and see if maybe there's slack? I'm worried I'll mess something up.

 

[Catmonkey]

I believe that he's asking you to do is to determine if there is electrical tape around the cable and other wiring harnesses that is following the same path across the bottom of the engine. There's a chance the cable may be long enough, but the tape wrap is keeping it from reaching. Most of the other wiring harness will have tabs along where it's routed to hold the loom in place which may not be allowing you to pull the cable closer to your terminal. You would need to do this to install a longer cable. I have a later model, so I have no idea how the wire harness is routed or retained in the earlier models.

 

[54First]

First, try to unwrap the tape like Fullboogie said. You'll have to do it in any event like Catmonkey said. You can't hurt anything by unwrapping tape and possibly undoing a tab or two. Maybe you'll have enough cable. When I did mine I cut the cable right at the connector. Then I attached a new connector and boot (if you're neat, you can use the original boot) to a new piece of #4 (factory size) cable. Then I slid a piece of shrink tubing over the cable, crimped (you'll need a crimper and a butt connector) the new piece to the existing cable, and shrunk it with a heat gun. They make shrink tubing with a glue sealant inside that gives you a well sealed joint. You can get the connector and cable from AutoZone or O'Reilly. Maybe the shrink, too. I don't remember where I got the shrink or the boot. Now that I've written this, I don't know why I didn't do what Boogie suggested. It never crossed my mind.

Steve

 

[DiZzyBonne]

If the car gods are good to me, maybe I'll have my baby up and running this weekend.

Thanks everybody, I'll post back with my findings!

[EDIT]

My other concern is, if you look in the first picture, the alternator connection outlet has a really tight fit. The powersteering tube is literally smashed between it, and whatever that piece of metal to the right is. Will this cause any issues? 54First, did you run into this problem too?

 

[54First]

54First, did you run into this problem too?

I don't remember. It's 104* in my garage right now or I'd go look. The best I can do is tomorrow morning when it's cooler.

Steve

 

[fullboogie]

If I can give you some friendly advice, stop being so timid about this repair. Grab the PS tube and bend the damn thing out of the way until you have enough clearance. Grab the alternator charging wire, rip the tape off and see if you have slack somewhere. If not, pull the wire up through the engine compartment, unhook it from the junction box, and bring it somewhere and buy that length plus a foot. Solder some new connections on each end, and reinstall it. You can't sit around all weekend worried you're going to hurt your car if you try something to fix it.

 

[Catmonkey]

Get a little plastic loom to put over those wires to keep them from chaffing against the alternator body. Looks like you have a little room to move them for more clearance. Same may apply to getting a little more slack in this harness too. Don't be afraid to cut the tape holding the plastic clips in place and retaping them to get more wire or harness to your alternator.

 

[54First]

I don't remember. It's 104* in my garage right now or I'd go look. The best I can do is tomorrow morning when it's cooler.

Steve

Well, it's cooler. Yes, the connection is close, but in two or three years it's never touched. Boogie and Cat have the right approach. It's definitely the easier way and I wish I'd tkought of it a few years ago. If it turns out you don't find extra cable, I spliced 9" into the big cable and bought a Motorcraft pigtail (it comes with the good shrink tubing) for the plug (also 9").

Steve

Edit: Since elctrical work makes you nervous, as long as your battery is disconnected pretend the cable is a rope. That's low stress.

 

[DiZzyBonne]

Alright, it's a new day, time to get working! Thanks for the advice everybody!

 

[DiZzyBonne]

Update, she works! A friend came over and helped me. To make clearance, he slightly bent (not kinked) the power steering line out of the way. Also, I ended up just pulling off the cable from the car, removing a lot of tape, until I had enough slack. However, after starting the car, I went inside and while he was still in the garage, I heard a nasty squeak. He revved it, and it got worse. I ran out, and I could smell burning rubber, so I turned off the car we checked the belt, realized we missed the idler.

When I turn on the car now, I hear a slight squeak, which was always there, but it's a little louder than it used to be. How soon before I go out and buy a new belt, or am I safe with this one?

Another problem is if I'm doing a tight U-turn to the left with the steering wheel turned all the way, and when I straighten the car out by turning the wheel to the right, if I keep going past straight so the car turns slightly to the right, I hear and feel a little pop. I can sometimes get it to do it while just turning right, but it's more consistent if I do the U-turn to the left first. I know I tightened the sway bar on both sides, all 4 bolts, but I have a slight feeling that that's what it is.

Any suggestions?